What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Went Cucv shopping today

Richcz28

Richcz28

1/2 ton status
Vendor
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Posts
3,544
Reaction score
358
Location
Boston
Went to look at a m1009 with a friend of mine. The truck would be for him. I can't post pictures until Monday as I just have my phone with me for the weekend.

So my friend is one of my best friends and we always works on car stuff with me. He has a red .70 cutlass supreme convertible. Basically since I got my blazer he's wanted one so we have been keeping an I out for another m1009. He wants a desert tan one so we heard about one in western mass and went to check it out.

The truck has never been registered and is fresh from an auction I am guessing because it has no holes for license plates, no inspection, and no previous registration. The guy who has the truck is a dealer and supposedly got it through another dealer down south. He says it's no Problem to register because he is a dealer and would sell it with correct paperwork.

I'm just going to list pluses and minuses to save my texting thumbs

Pluses

Totally rust free- inner fenders, floors, everything, the most rust free k5 I've seen
Mostly original under the hood
Front end feels tight - no ball joint play and drives straight

Minuses

Replaced drivers seat with random crappy seat
No spare
Broken side mirror
No pintle hitch and missing tow bar
Bent front brush guard... Really bent
Broken corner light
Somebody put the truck on a lift and lifted it by the rockers and crushed them in 4 spots
Glow plugs wired to a switch
Low coolant
Low oil
Dry rotted tires
The guy said he uses starter fluid to start the tuck ...ahhhhh!
Glow plugs bad some lead wires are broken
No heat blower motor
Leaking fuel line
Bad shocks don't even have rubber in one


Now he's asking $4500. The truck has 91,000miles.

I feel it's worth 3 personally because of the lack of rust. My friend is in a position to make an offer but I'm thinking of telling him to wait for a better deal and the starting fluid and low fluid levels scare me. Any thoughts?
 
Just remembered this truck was not undercoated like mine. And the desert tan was painted over the or green color, idk if that is how they all were?
 
I wouldn't evenbother making an offer, this thing is not worth more than $1500 in the condition you state.
Richcz28 said:
Went to look at a m1009 with a friend of mine. The truck would be for him. I can't post pictures until Monday as I just have my phone with me for the weekend.

So my friend is one of my best friends and we always works on car stuff with me. He has a red .70 cutlass supreme convertible. Basically since I got my blazer he's wanted one so we have been keeping an I out for another m1009. He wants a desert tan one so we heard about one in western mass and went to check it out.

The truck has never been registered and is fresh from an auction I am guessing because it has no holes for license plates, no inspection, and no previous registration. The guy who has the truck is a dealer and supposedly got it through another dealer down south. He says it's no Problem to register because he is a dealer and would sell it with correct paperwork.

I'm just going to list pluses and minuses to save my texting thumbs

Pluses

Totally rust free- inner fenders, floors, everything, the most rust free k5 I've seen
Mostly original under the hood
Front end feels tight - no ball joint play and drives straight

Minuses

Replaced drivers seat with random crappy seat
No spare
Broken side mirror
No pintle hitch and missing tow bar
Bent front brush guard... Really bent
Broken corner light
Somebody put the truck on a lift and lifted it by the rockers and crushed them in 4 spots
Glow plugs wired to a switch
Low coolant
Low oil
Dry rotted tires
The guy said he uses starter fluid to start the tuck ...ahhhhh!
Glow plugs bad some lead wires are broken
No heat blower motor
Leaking fuel line
Bad shocks don't even have rubber in one


Now he's asking $4500. The truck has 91,000miles.

I feel it's worth 3 personally because of the lack of rust. My friend is in a position to make an offer but I'm thinking of telling him to wait for a better deal and the starting fluid and low fluid levels scare me. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
 
Yeah that's what I'm thinking the more we sit on it. I don't imagine It's going anywhere soon so maybe a lowball offer in a few weeks is worthwhile. 1500s exactly what I got my blazer for but I have easily 1500 into it in parts and still need a floor.

Before I bought mine I looked at 2 others that were askin 3k and 3500 and both were in worse shaPe in terms of rust and running condition. I just never see them up here rust free. 496trucks being an exception. He got a great deal on a real clean truck.
 
Yeah, well, mine was imported from TX. The PO only lived up here a short time before having to sell it. I was just lucky enough to find it on CL.

I always say, solid body is what you want, everything else can be fixed. If it was starting, running, driving condition with no funkyness it could be worth 3 to 4. Sounds like you have at least 1k worth of funkyness to deal with. I'd be a buyer at 2 to 25 and be happy. This is in consideration of finding a solid truck down south for 1500 and having it shipped up. You have to think to yourself, it's already up here and how much would it cost to have one shipped.

This guy is a dealer. He's going to make money on it or he wouldn't be in business. Who knows, he may be in it 1500 already between original purchase and shipping, or 2500. But you can be sure he's gonna ask high and make every penny he can. One thing you can do is is lowball offer with the condition that he will NEVER see the truck again. Which means no 30 day used car coverage or guarantee it'll pass the safety inspection. That leaves the buyer responsible for getting it road worthy.
 
Oh that is the only way I bought from a dealer, low ball, and told him I walk out the door, and it will be the last you see or hear of me.
That way they know what they got is all there.
Adn I know what these guys mark up so I have an idea of the limit I can go down and still make it work.
But as far as prices plus shipping, there are people getting these for $400-500 running or need as little as a battery, so add the shipping and you still are at $1500.
Now granted you will not find them everyday, but I am not buying everyday either.:thumb:
496truck said:
Yeah, well, mine was imported from TX. The PO only lived up here a short time before having to sell it. I was just lucky enough to find it on CL.

I always say, solid body is what you want, everything else can be fixed. If it was starting, running, driving condition with no funkyness it could be worth 3 to 4. Sounds like you have at least 1k worth of funkyness to deal with. I'd be a buyer at 2 to 25 and be happy. This is in consideration of finding a solid truck down south for 1500 and having it shipped up. You have to think to yourself, it's already up here and how much would it cost to have one shipped.

This guy is a dealer. He's going to make money on it or he wouldn't be in business. Who knows, he may be in it 1500 already between original purchase and shipping, or 2500. But you can be sure he's gonna ask high and make every penny he can. One thing you can do is is lowball offer with the condition that he will NEVER see the truck again. Which means no 30 day used car coverage or guarantee it'll pass the safety inspection. That leaves the buyer responsible for getting it road worthy.
Click to expand...
 
Being driveable and rust free, I`d say $2500 area. Just make sure he can supply you with paperwork to register it. As you know MA is a title state, and they like paperwork. The rust free is a big plus here, like Brian said, you can fix the mech issues. When I first looked at the one I bought, it wasn`t for sale, and I wasn`t looking for another truck. But it was rust free, so a deal was made, and it came home with me.
 
str8axle55 said:
Being driveable and rust free, I`d say $2500 area. Just make sure he can supply you with paperwork to register it. As you know MA is a title state, and they like paperwork. The rust free is a big plus here, like Brian said, you can fix the mech issues. When I first looked at the one I bought, it wasn`t for sale, and I wasn`t looking for another truck. But it was rust free, so a deal was made, and it came home with me.
Click to expand...

Well I would agree if:
Driveable means you can turn the key and wait a few seconds and cranck and it would start.
He starts it on ether so he could have damaged the engine already and we have no idea.
Shocks are shot to the point the rupper bushings are gone.
The great body on it has major damage on the rockers from lifting.
Low oil, and low coolant already support the bad engine theory.
Now I can live with a bad seat and worn or cracked tires, but gotta have turn signal, tail light, mirror.
So I could say $1500-2000.
I still wouldn't pay this much for a great truck here but here we have them rust free all over.:whistle:
 
I know ether is not for diesels as is idiotely proof written on the air cleaner housing, but what sort of damage can it cause and is it a reason to turn tail and run away as fast as you can?
 
Richcz28 said:
I know ether is not for diesels as is idiotely proof written on the air cleaner housing, but what sort of damage can it cause and is it a reason to turn tail and run away as fast as you can?
Click to expand...
If the glow plugs are not disconnected, ether could blow up at the wrong time and destroy the pistons.
 
If you must use ether--do it "right".....do NOT energize the glow plugs,and get the motor spinning over freely before you spray any in the intake.....that'll reduce the chances of any damage.....most folks let the glow plugs come on,and just douse the intake with ether,then get in and try starting it up,and the engine will grunt,groan and kick back ,the glow plugs will set off the ether too far in advance and can cause things to break,like pistons and crankshafts............................................................................................though its highly discouraged,we used ether all the time to start a 6.2 we had in a torch truck at the junkyard,and didn't have any problems with it..(but then,we would have just put it in the pile with the rest of the junks if we did! :whistle:...I wouldn't want to use ether on my daily driver!)...
 
Yeah breaking cranks and pistons doesn't sound great. I'm guessing this truck still has those working because it seems to run fine. I think my buddy's plan is to sit on it awhile and make a low ball offer. It won't be the last m1009 around.
 
finally uploaded the pic of it to my computer

001.JPG
 
I can't believe someone put lift arms under the pinch welds on a heavy truck when you have a full frame right there. Even on unibody cars, that's the last place I want to put the lift pads. Some are designed to take the weight there, others are not.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom