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What’s wrong with my nv4500s?

Is the noise on there on one specific gear or all of them? Is the noise there in neutral with the clutch pedal released? Does it go away when the clutch pedal is down?

I’d also wonder if you have a heat shield or something grounding out on the trans or t-case that could be the source of the noise.
 
Threw a battery in her and started her up to answer those questions. I had previously removed the driveshaft expecting to pull the tranny.

I cycled through all the gears and no noise.

Let me put the driveshaft back in and get back to you. Driveshaft was professionally rebuilt and balanced… :thinking:

IMG_8318.jpeg
 
joshuak said:
Threw a battery in her and started her up to answer those questions. I had previously removed the driveshaft expecting to pull the tranny.

I cycled through all the gears and no noise.

Let me put the driveshaft back in and get back to you. Driveshaft was professionally rebuilt and balanced… :thinking:

View attachment 458432
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Possible rear end issue?
 
joshuak said:
Trying to get her big a$$ in the air as we speak!

For me that means cribbing :haha:

View attachment 458433

But in the video it seemed to come and go as I depressed the go pedal.

***Edit… I give up on this jack. I’ll regroup tomorrow.
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That description could very well be a pinion bearing/loose yoke nut.
 
Hmm… the last time I drove her down the road I made it about 900 yards or so before the noise/vibration came back and I chose to turn around.

Is jacking the rear up and putting in gear the best way to verify or should I be doing something else?
 
joshuak said:
Hmm… the last time I drove her down the road I made it about 900 yards or so before the noise/vibration came back and I chose to turn around.

Is jacking the rear up and putting in gear the best way to verify or should I be doing something else?
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I would chock the wheels then put it in nuetral. Get underneath and grab the driveline by the yoke and push/pull/twist.
 
If it was inside the trans it would have most certainly made noise with the rear shaft out and going through the gears. If it's quiet that with the shaft out I'm with Ed about checking the pinion nut/rear yoke.
 
Push, pulled, twisted on the pinion yoke. Felt no abnormal play.

I saw the fill plug looked kinda rough so wanted to verify that I had put fluid in it. Typical rust belt BS, heat plus penetrating oil and still stripped plugs and broken tools…First the extension, then the ratchet.

IMG_8332.jpeg

IMG_8334.jpeg

Sinking suspicion I hadn't put fluid in it, then I moved to the back and realized the aftermarket diff cover has a fill plug, oil level is fine. :doah:Trying to take the cover off now to see how it looks inside, the right stuff has a death grip on it though.

IMG_8337.jpeg
 
yeah the ratchet drives are weak at the detent ball. I don't use my drive tools to remove plugs. I have some square male and female sockets to this, in both 3/8 and 1/2 dirve
 
Wes Harden said:
yeah the ratchet drives are weak at the detent ball.
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Makes sense, lot of hollowness there.
Wes Harden said:
I don't use my drive tools to remove plugs. I have some square male and female sockets to this, in both 3/8 and 1/2 dirve
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Kinda made something similar to your square sockets, took a grinder to the extension and ground the four flats further up the shank. That’s what rounded out the plug.

The first sentence of that post was the only serious part, posting up results of pinion/yoke bearing play.

The rest was just posted up for entertainment value. Certainly not the right way of doing things.
 
I had a few tool dealers, refuse to repair a broken drive, only once for me, when I was way younger and dumber. Have seen many others refused. Kinda hurts when your talking Snap on, but at least the drive is available for purchase. Don't have to replace whole ratchet
 
Wes Harden said:
I had a few tool dealers, refuse to repair a broken drive, only once for me, when I was way younger and dumber. Have seen many others refused. Kinda hurts when your talking Snap on, but at least the drive is available for purchase. Don't have to replace whole ratchet
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I certainly resemble half of that statement and I’m too old to be young.:haha:

No worries about warranting that. Plenty more at the yard sales and flea markets where that came from. No fancy tools here, if I have some extra coin I buy parts.

Case in point, I took the blade out of my utility knife to serve as a wedge between the diff and cover, worked that around enough that I was able to get a paint scrapper to fit and then used that to pry it off. I’m sure the tool truck has great tool for that.

IMG_8360.jpeg

Call it dumb, call it resourceful, it’s all good.
 
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Back to the truck.

Would lack of play in the pinion yoke rule out the whole diff or is there something else back here that could contribute those noises?

Gear oil looked very dirty for the <500miles it has on it. Magnet had plenty of fluff but no chunks.

IMG_8370.jpeg
 
Stupid question, but obviously I’m not above asking those.

Could something in the motor be the cause of those sounds?

I replaced mufflers at the same time and one looks heatsoaked and the other fine.

IMG_8320.jpeg

IMG_8321.jpeg

IMG_8320.jpeg
 
joshuak said:
Back to the truck.

Would lack of play in the pinion yoke rule out the whole diff or is there something else back here that could contribute those noises?

Gear oil looked very dirty for the <500miles it has on it. Magnet had plenty of fluff but no chunks.

View attachment 458570
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500 miles shouldn't have any fluff on the magnet.
Something is not getting enough oil or is too tight.
Did you do anything on it or just cleaning and fluid change?
 
joshuak said:
Stupid question, but obviously I’m not above asking those.

Could something in the motor be the cause of those sounds?

I replaced mufflers at the same time and one looks heatsoaked and the other fine.

View attachment 458572

View attachment 458573

View attachment 458571
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I seem to remember that with dual exhaust and no cross over one side was getting hotter because of the siamese cylinders concentrated heat and frequency.
Do you have dual exhaust?
 
imiceman44 said:
500 miles shouldn't have any fluff on the magnet.
Something is not getting enough oil or is too tight.
Did you do anything on it or just cleaning and fluid change?
Click to expand...

Front and rear axles for this truck came off some else’s project, don’t know if they ran or not.

I’ve done no gear work. Just replaced diff cover, cleaned the pumpkin out with brake clean, pulled the axle shafts, hubs, did brakes, repacked bearings etc.

About too tight, grooves on the ring gear… is that normal?

IMG_8363.jpeg
 
imiceman44 said:
I seem to remember that with dual exhaust and no cross over one side was getting hotter because of the siamese cylinders concentrated heat and frequency.
Do you have dual exhaust?
Click to expand...
Yes.

Thanks for learning me something today.
 
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