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What a difference in ride/steering quality...

Avery4jc

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This week I took off the sway bar (those 1 1/8" bolts through the u-bolt plates were a PITA!) and bolted on an ORD frame brace...

For those of you running lifted 1/2 tons I'd HIGHLY recommend doing this simple change. The suspension doesn't seem to bind as much and the steering feels better (probably not a huge difference but I've been driving the k10 for a few years so I picked up on it)...
I'm probably preaching to the choir around here but I thought I'd share. :D
 
This week I took off the sway bar (those 1 1/8" bolts through the u-bolt plates were a PITA!)
I'm probably preaching to the choir around here but I thought I'd share. :D
:haha: Yep the bolts a B*tch for sure!!

:haha: I dont think theres many here who have`nt at least tried it . If not they NEED to. :D
 
The sway bar is not needed, i took mine off and never put it back on. I dont daily drive my blazer, but if i did i think i would leave it off.
 
Yep sure did make a difference... that and I found out my frame is tweaked a little bit. The steering box brace bolted right up to the back side of the power steering box but the third bolt that goes through the crossmember was off by about 3/8"...
I'm not sure if this is just a slight variance from truck to truck (after all the pilot hole for that center bolt is just a hardline clip) but other than that it all went in smoothly...
 
Yep sure did make a difference... that and I found out my frame is tweaked a little bit. The steering box brace bolted right up to the back side of the power steering box but the third bolt that goes through the crossmember was off by about 3/8"...
I'm not sure if this is just a slight variance from truck to truck (after all the pilot hole for that center bolt is just a hardline clip) but other than that it all went in smoothly...
My frame is so tweaked; the hole on the cross member didn't line up at all. I took a dremel tool with a carbide bit and opened the hole to match the brace.
Oh yeah, my steering is so much tighter now, but I also replace the two rivets with bolts by the steering box. One rivet was loose and one was just the head rattling around.:eek1:
 
You really want to make a diff. replace the shackle bolts with ORD greasables and put in an XJ steering shaft, if all your other steering components are good then youll really see a diff. Your ride will be smoother and steering will be tighter.
 
Yeah!! Keep the Mods coming. Next, Frnt 56", High crossover, 63" rears and lots of cutting to keep those claws.
 
I be ditching the sway bar as soon as I get my 2" lift springs in the front and some new shocks. All this talk of the gear box being hard to line up scares me.. I'm going to put the steering box brace in when I do my lift.
 
You really want to make a diff. replace the shackle bolts with ORD greasables and put in an XJ steering shaft, if all your other steering components are good then youll really see a diff. Your ride will be smoother and steering will be tighter.

An entire new suspension/steering setup is in the works... thats why I got the k3500... to daily drive while the k10 is in a million pieces as well as a tow rig since I don't plan on keeping the k10 street friendly for longer than a few miles if necessary...


Yeah!! Keep the Mods coming. Next, Frnt 56", High crossover, 63" rears and lots of cutting to keep those claws.

Yep, something like that. :D

I've got some money saved up that I was going to spend on new (new as in old out of the junk yard or parts trucks) springs, crossover parts and a detroit for the rear BUT... I've been eyeing a Hobart welder for the garage...
I'll end up getting it all done eventually but a welder sure would be nice to have at the house...
 
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