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What all sensors on a 5.3 effect the way it runs? (Narrowed it down)
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
black dawg
1/2 ton status
on the rich running........is this a flex fuel truck??
I don't think so. Never looked that hard.
It's a late year 04. I thought it was an 05 because it's drive by wire and has adjustable pedals. Thought those were 05+ options. Not sure if they had the flex that early, did they...?
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Were doing the cats this weekend. I'll get more info on it then.
It's a late year 04. I thought it was an 05 because it's drive by wire and has adjustable pedals. Thought those were 05+ options. Not sure if they had the flex that early, did they...?
. Were doing the cats this weekend. I'll get more info on it then.
Flex would have it marked on fuel cap, if original, might even be yellow. The vin decode of engine will also be flex or not. I believe the LM7 for 03/04 is flex.
Flex fuel goes back as far as 2002 in the trucks, but it's kind of hard to figure out how they chose which SUVs and trucks would get it and which ones wouldn't. You could see if your scanner can find the fuel composition sensor. Throttle by wire started in 2001, but I've heard of some 2001 trucks that still had the cable. Wikipedia says adjustable pedals started in 2003.I don't think so. Never looked that hard.
It's a late year 04. I thought it was an 05 because it's drive by wire and has adjustable pedals. Thought those were 05+ options. Not sure if they had the flex that early, did they...?
Were doing the cats this weekend. I'll get more info on it then.
Like I said, there is little discernible correlation to options and FFV. They got government CAFE points for every FFV sold, so it's almost like they were randomly sprinkled throughout the herd to reach some percentage. Irony is that many of them never saw more than 10% ethanol.
yeah that's a safe bet. E85 is only 15 20 cents a gallon less, and get horrible millage. Maybe if you had your own corn field and a still
e85 in Kommiefornia is 2.85 or better. Very few places have. I can find 10% for 2.79 w/o much trouble.
I'm told by a few who tried it that if you run e85 for a half dozen tank fulls in a row, the computer realigns it's self enough that it gets close to the same mpg.
But most people never run it that long to find out.
Even here in corn country it's hard to find though.
There's only one station I know of here that has it and it's 5-10 miles outside of town.
But most people never run it that long to find out.
Even here in corn country it's hard to find though.
There's only one station I know of here that has it and it's 5-10 miles outside of town.
I'm surprised this urban legend persists. Gas is stoich at 14.7:1, while ethanol is 9.0:1, so most e85 you find needs to be around 10. Since ethanol has about 30% less energy than gas there's no way you can go as far per gallon.
Let's say you let the PCM learn the fuel. You'd better avoid any real load on the engine while it's dead lean. Remember that fuel trims only adjust at steady-state conditions. O2 feedback doesn't help you in any transient conditions. Then you'll have to max the fuel trims over 30% to get it right, which will set a fault code and possibly reduced power mode. If the stock tables are for E10 and your local "E85" is really E70, it might work. But part of the problem is that the actual ratio varies a lot. They're just not allowed to give you more than 85% Ethanol. So as you're getting different fuels is it ever running right? Now as you switch back to regular, it will be puffing black rich.
Of course the FFV got bigger injectors. Will the smaller ones even be able to keep up? I just don't see the point of doing this. Now if you got free alcohol or something it might be worth swapping injectors and re-tuning to run it all the time.
Let's say you let the PCM learn the fuel. You'd better avoid any real load on the engine while it's dead lean. Remember that fuel trims only adjust at steady-state conditions. O2 feedback doesn't help you in any transient conditions. Then you'll have to max the fuel trims over 30% to get it right, which will set a fault code and possibly reduced power mode. If the stock tables are for E10 and your local "E85" is really E70, it might work. But part of the problem is that the actual ratio varies a lot. They're just not allowed to give you more than 85% Ethanol. So as you're getting different fuels is it ever running right? Now as you switch back to regular, it will be puffing black rich.
Of course the FFV got bigger injectors. Will the smaller ones even be able to keep up? I just don't see the point of doing this. Now if you got free alcohol or something it might be worth swapping injectors and re-tuning to run it all the time.
Just going off real testimony from direct co-workers on my crew .
One dude did it, so a few others tried it.
Wasn't as good of mpg. But much closer than the first tank they ran. All 3 said the same thing after doing it.
Myself, I try not to run ethanol at all, so I'll never know lol.
.One dude did it, so a few others tried it.
Wasn't as good of mpg. But much closer than the first tank they ran. All 3 said the same thing after doing it.
Myself, I try not to run ethanol at all, so I'll never know lol.
It's not an engine sensor.
It's all due to something going on with the pedal stuff. It keeps going into reduced power mode because of drive by wire BS.
Pedal sensor, throttle body, and control box are all brand new. Bought best that could be found. Delco for all but 1 I believe.
Still does it completely randomly. Might do it 3 days from now or 5 times across town. Clear the codes it goes back to normal, and no idea when it'll do it again.
I'm about to just convert it to drive by cable.... I'm not a fan of dbw anyway. And this solidifies that to me.
It's all due to something going on with the pedal stuff. It keeps going into reduced power mode because of drive by wire BS.
Pedal sensor, throttle body, and control box are all brand new. Bought best that could be found. Delco for all but 1 I believe.
Still does it completely randomly. Might do it 3 days from now or 5 times across town. Clear the codes it goes back to normal, and no idea when it'll do it again.
I'm about to just convert it to drive by cable.... I'm not a fan of dbw anyway. And this solidifies that to me.
If all parts are new, you've ruled out a component problem. It's a wiring issue.
Gm has an internal bulletin about the p2135, p1516, p0220, p0120 codes.
Google PIP3089B. The short version is there could be a loose crimp on an individual terminal at the throttle body connector. Other issue they list is a loose or corroded ground at the G103 and G104 positions. G103 is on the back of the block above the trans mounting surface (below G104) G104 is on the back of the driver side cylinder head.
Neither the tac module or throttle body require a relearn or programming after replacement on an '05 truck.
The option to convert back to cable throttle is going to be a bigger pain than fixing your problem. It's one thing if it was an LS swap like on your project. Other systems are looking at the tac module for info and can make commands for the throttle. Mainly cruise control and stability/traction control. So besides loosing the cruise the truck is going to set a bunch of abs/traction/stability due to the tac module not being there.
Wiring issues suck to chase but we've replaced the connector to the throttle body many of times around our shop. I suggest pulling the conduit back at the connector and wiggle each wire separately while watching data. See if you can isolate the circuit.
If you want the full blow by blow diag chart I can get it to you tonight after I get home from work. Let me know if you want it.
Gm has an internal bulletin about the p2135, p1516, p0220, p0120 codes.
Google PIP3089B. The short version is there could be a loose crimp on an individual terminal at the throttle body connector. Other issue they list is a loose or corroded ground at the G103 and G104 positions. G103 is on the back of the block above the trans mounting surface (below G104) G104 is on the back of the driver side cylinder head.
Neither the tac module or throttle body require a relearn or programming after replacement on an '05 truck.
The option to convert back to cable throttle is going to be a bigger pain than fixing your problem. It's one thing if it was an LS swap like on your project. Other systems are looking at the tac module for info and can make commands for the throttle. Mainly cruise control and stability/traction control. So besides loosing the cruise the truck is going to set a bunch of abs/traction/stability due to the tac module not being there.
Wiring issues suck to chase but we've replaced the connector to the throttle body many of times around our shop. I suggest pulling the conduit back at the connector and wiggle each wire separately while watching data. See if you can isolate the circuit.
If you want the full blow by blow diag chart I can get it to you tonight after I get home from work. Let me know if you want it.
The plug and pigtail are new at the throttle body.
I heard there's only 2 wires going from the tac to the main computer. Could check those if I can find them.
I found a full writeup on Ltswaps.com on how to switch it over.
I have the correct ecm from my other build, along with the pigtails and such that would be needed.
Computer would still need flashed to match the setup. But if I can't find this I'm forked. This thing needs to run NOW.
Lol.
My kid has a job now, his gf has 2, and they have one vehicle.
I'm sick of messing with it.
I'm going to gather pieces, even if I get it going by finding a ground or wire.
If this ever happens again the dbw is going away.
It should never have been allowed in my opinion. I believe in solid mechanical means for critical functions. I'm not even thrilled with how brakes operate but can't think of a better way to do it lol.
I'll check the grounds.
Chased a bunch of grounds already.
All I did on those ones was verify the wire looked good and they were tight.
Maybe I need to loosen them, wiggle em and retighten...
The one under the driver's door on the body mount was bad so I redid all of that one.
I heard there's only 2 wires going from the tac to the main computer. Could check those if I can find them.
I found a full writeup on Ltswaps.com on how to switch it over.
I have the correct ecm from my other build, along with the pigtails and such that would be needed.
Computer would still need flashed to match the setup. But if I can't find this I'm forked. This thing needs to run NOW.
Lol.
My kid has a job now, his gf has 2, and they have one vehicle.
I'm sick of messing with it.
I'm going to gather pieces, even if I get it going by finding a ground or wire.
If this ever happens again the dbw is going away.
It should never have been allowed in my opinion. I believe in solid mechanical means for critical functions. I'm not even thrilled with how brakes operate but can't think of a better way to do it lol.
I'll check the grounds.
Chased a bunch of grounds already.
All I did on those ones was verify the wire looked good and they were tight.
Maybe I need to loosen them, wiggle em and retighten...
The one under the driver's door on the body mount was bad so I redid all of that one.
I get the frustration. I really do. I deal with this crap daily. Unfortunately you've fallen into a trap that many do, including my own techs. You have tossed every part you can replace at it and the problem remains. What now?
This may come of as harsh, but I mean it with the best intentions. Stop Focking guessing. You have a wiring issue. It explains the idea that it runs fine until you hit a bump. The factory diagnostic procedure has you check the wiring completely in a methodical process. It's the only thing you haven't truly completed. Yeah you checked grounds but the one under the floor does not have any bearing on the throttle control system does. The ones that do are on the block and head. Where you are corrosion at those two points are highly possible. And even if they are tight a crappy rusty terminal is also high in resistance which indeed will effect the values by a lot.
Again I totally get what you are up against. You've beat your head against it for months and because of that you are blinded by what you've already done and can't see the possibility of anything else could cause it. Break the cycle. Stop tossing parts at it. Diagnose the problem.
I'm willing to help if you want it. I don't mind at all. If you don't that's fine too. I'm just trying to give you a hand with it.
This may come of as harsh, but I mean it with the best intentions. Stop Focking guessing. You have a wiring issue. It explains the idea that it runs fine until you hit a bump. The factory diagnostic procedure has you check the wiring completely in a methodical process. It's the only thing you haven't truly completed. Yeah you checked grounds but the one under the floor does not have any bearing on the throttle control system does. The ones that do are on the block and head. Where you are corrosion at those two points are highly possible. And even if they are tight a crappy rusty terminal is also high in resistance which indeed will effect the values by a lot.
Again I totally get what you are up against. You've beat your head against it for months and because of that you are blinded by what you've already done and can't see the possibility of anything else could cause it. Break the cycle. Stop tossing parts at it. Diagnose the problem.
I'm willing to help if you want it. I don't mind at all. If you don't that's fine too. I'm just trying to give you a hand with it.
