Doctors of the dana 60s, how the hell do you get this off. I cant put my block on untill I get this off. Two nuts came off with the studs, the other two nuts came off, put some heat on one stud and got it out and gave up for the night. Shouldn't the big spring in there pop it off? How heavy is that spring??? What did you guys do?? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
CK5
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What are the odds of my steering arm/kingpin cap actually coming off?
- Thread starter k30gambi
- Start date
Put penetrating oil and soak for overnight. Loosen nuts and then:
#1 some people have been known to then go for a drive until the steering arm comes loose (lazy mans method).
#2 beat silly with big hammer (angry mans method)
#1 some people have been known to then go for a drive until the steering arm comes loose (lazy mans method).
#2 beat silly with big hammer (angry mans method)
rogerwilco71
1/2 ton status
me likes angry-man method.
KRAZIE87K5
1/2 ton status
</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
some people have been known to then go for a drive until the steering arm comes loose
[/ QUOTE ]
If this is a 60, and not a 10 bolt steering arm, then DON'T DRIVE IT with all the hardware missing... you are asking to kill yourself. I have heard of folks backing the 3 nuts off the studs on a 10 bolt and driving it to loosen it, but I don't even really like that idea. If it comes off, the wheel will likly jump right off the axle, brakes and all! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
My 60 has 4 (count them four) bolts on the top and bottom of the knuckle. NOT studs... so I'm not sure what you are looking at, unless you have some kind of block under there to raise the steering arm.... BUT ANYWAYS, the spring has some strength, but not enough to break it loose if its really stuck. I would say use the BFH method. But what would really help here is a pic of your stuck steering arm. If you have a digital camera, post it up so we can help better. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Good luck,
-Dan
some people have been known to then go for a drive until the steering arm comes loose
[/ QUOTE ]
If this is a 60, and not a 10 bolt steering arm, then DON'T DRIVE IT with all the hardware missing... you are asking to kill yourself. I have heard of folks backing the 3 nuts off the studs on a 10 bolt and driving it to loosen it, but I don't even really like that idea. If it comes off, the wheel will likly jump right off the axle, brakes and all! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
My 60 has 4 (count them four) bolts on the top and bottom of the knuckle. NOT studs... so I'm not sure what you are looking at, unless you have some kind of block under there to raise the steering arm.... BUT ANYWAYS, the spring has some strength, but not enough to break it loose if its really stuck. I would say use the BFH method. But what would really help here is a pic of your stuck steering arm. If you have a digital camera, post it up so we can help better. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Good luck,
-Dan
Mr.Chevy4x4
1/2 ton status
Dan,
Your steering arm should be mounted with studs. If you have bolts there then someone has monkeyed with it in the past. They all came with studs from the factory. The cover ont the oposite side from the steering arm uses bolts though.
Mike
Your steering arm should be mounted with studs. If you have bolts there then someone has monkeyed with it in the past. They all came with studs from the factory. The cover ont the oposite side from the steering arm uses bolts though.
Mike
KRAZIE87K5
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the pointer Mike... and YES my axle was rebuilt when I bought it... and then I installed a Rockstomper crossover steering setup, which relocated the steering arm to the pass side, under the cap. Still, do you think its wise to drive on a steering arm that not only would screw your steering abilities, but would also loosen your knuckle? I don't like the sounds of that at all... Thats like removing a ball joint by driving on it without the nuts on them IMO. Ahh well.
Regardless, thanks for the info Mike! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
-Dan
Regardless, thanks for the info Mike! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
-Dan
Mr.Chevy4x4
1/2 ton status
No, I'm with you on this one. I definitely wouldn't drive with the steering arm loosened. I hope the fellow coming down the road toward me doesn't try this method of loosening the steering arm either! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Sounds like a candidate for the Darwin awards in the making! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
Mike
Mike
I'm curious, is this generally a problem with D60's? I've never had one stick to the knuckle like this, on every one I've seen the spring has been strong enough to break the arm loose as the studs/nuts were loosened. Have I just been lucky?
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
my lift block was rusted to one of the studs
it was a SOB to remove
I got lucky and was able to disassemble it to the point where I could spin the block to unthread the stud
if I wasnt trying to save the block to send to a CKer i would have cut it.
should have as UPS lost the shipment and it took months to get them to settle
ALWAYS cover this stuff with antisieze compound
it was a SOB to remove
I got lucky and was able to disassemble it to the point where I could spin the block to unthread the stud
if I wasnt trying to save the block to send to a CKer i would have cut it.
should have as UPS lost the shipment and it took months to get them to settle
ALWAYS cover this stuff with antisieze compound
Sweet. I got the focker off with A LOT of /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif on the last stud. The stud was froze to the arm. Since they are too lazy to send me new nuts with this block, I wonder if I should re-use the two nuts I had to heat the daylights out of to get them off the studs. Thanks for the input. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
