I've been trying to make an ASDU bin work on my Blazer and I keep having trouble. Maybe I should start with something different. What have other folks here started with?
CK5
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What bin to start with?
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
ASDU with checksum disabled in MASK ID to AA so the Ostrich will work.
Then you won't get code 51...
Then you won't get code 51...
I need to try something different. I found this thread (poster looks familiar):
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?304-1227747-ECM-Information-42
Maybe ARJT? I could try a different ASDU too, maybe mine is corrupt or something.
I can't figure out why the Ostrich has an error in the stream, but the light doesn't turn on.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?304-1227747-ECM-Information-42
Maybe ARJT? I could try a different ASDU too, maybe mine is corrupt or something.
I can't figure out why the Ostrich has an error in the stream, but the light doesn't turn on.
Yeah AJRT or another ADSU they are both good late model 1227747 bin files.
I'm just not that familar with Ostrich, I have an AutoProm. The AutoProm does not need a socket Booster for 1227747 but the Ostrich does! Do you have a socket booster? Do you have the red line on ribbon cable to inside of ECM where notch in chip would be? Do you have MASK ID set to AA to disable checksum?
I'm just not that familar with Ostrich, I have an AutoProm. The AutoProm does not need a socket Booster for 1227747 but the Ostrich does! Do you have a socket booster? Do you have the red line on ribbon cable to inside of ECM where notch in chip would be? Do you have MASK ID set to AA to disable checksum?
I've used the Ostrich a lot, I'm certain it's plugged in right. I have a Moates adapter with ZIF. I have not disabled the checksum or anything like that. It's not a big deal since the light isn't going on. Maybe TunerPro automatically disables the checksum when it uploads to the Ostrich or something... I guess I'll ignore it for now and worry about it if it still comes on with a real chip.
I'm really tempted to buy an EBL to be rid of this nonsense. It's just so expensive.
I'm really tempted to buy an EBL to be rid of this nonsense. It's just so expensive.
EBL is way cool! I would never talk someone out of one, tech support is great too! But it's a one per car thing...
But your already set with what you need, just gotta work the bug out. Moates is also excellent with Tech support so give them a call.
You could even do a 16197427 swap and still have equiptment needed, just change TunerPro files.
But your already set with what you need, just gotta work the bug out. Moates is also excellent with Tech support so give them a call.
You could even do a 16197427 swap and still have equiptment needed, just change TunerPro files.
The tech issues are just annoying. My real problem I've mentioned here before is that the thing bogs/stumbles very badly on acceleration when not warmed up. I had cop car injectors until two days ago. I replaced them with standard 5.7 injectors because I thought that just maybe there was something subtle in the accel enrichment that wasn't being accounted for by changing the BPW and VE tables. That's why I'm starting up fresh with the new injectors, but so far it's acting about the same.
Everything is so standard, I think it should run okay out of the box without a bunch of tuning. My differences from factory are: headers, no EGR, no VSS, no knock sensor. I think I disabled all that stuff (set the enable temp to max and turned off error codes).
It's of course possible I have a mechanical problem unrelated to the computer. My latest theory is that maybe I have a small leak at the header/block interface that is corrupting my O2 readings. Once the engine gets warm, this might seal up and that's why it's happy hot. It might also explain why my BLMs seem to creep up at idle. It's just a theory though. I'm going to try and look closely tonight, but it's hard to tell the difference between tight header bolts and ones that are just seized after all these years.
Everything is so standard, I think it should run okay out of the box without a bunch of tuning. My differences from factory are: headers, no EGR, no VSS, no knock sensor. I think I disabled all that stuff (set the enable temp to max and turned off error codes).
It's of course possible I have a mechanical problem unrelated to the computer. My latest theory is that maybe I have a small leak at the header/block interface that is corrupting my O2 readings. Once the engine gets warm, this might seal up and that's why it's happy hot. It might also explain why my BLMs seem to creep up at idle. It's just a theory though. I'm going to try and look closely tonight, but it's hard to tell the difference between tight header bolts and ones that are just seized after all these years.
An exhaust leak before O2 is a disaster to try and tune cause your just getting wrong info.
Fuel pressure is another mechanical issue that has to be correct or ECM has no way to know? It assumes pressure is correct and injectors are not clogged...
If EGR is sealed it plays no role in your issue.
VSS is a good thing! I have run a conversion without and properly tuned, then added a VSS and could not beleive difference...
Fuel pressure is another mechanical issue that has to be correct or ECM has no way to know? It assumes pressure is correct and injectors are not clogged...
If EGR is sealed it plays no role in your issue.
VSS is a good thing! I have run a conversion without and properly tuned, then added a VSS and could not beleive difference...
Would you mind emailing me ARJT or posting it? I can't register on that other site for some reason, maybe because I use gmail. 
Gmail is banned because of the 20 to 150 spammers a day. They have a big problem, to much work for us. But you have to have an email to get Gmail so use it. Then after you answer confirmation email and log in you can change to your gmail account.
Lot's of other good stuff there like the $42-1227727-V3 xdf and adx to go with TunerPro. Lean Cruise patch etc... main reason for the site was place to put stuff no other forum will allow.
Lot's of other good stuff there like the $42-1227727-V3 xdf and adx to go with TunerPro. Lean Cruise patch etc... main reason for the site was place to put stuff no other forum will allow.
I don't actually have another Email anymore. I've had gmail so long I just use it all the time. Cox probably has some setup where I could get one from them but I'm not sure how to start and it would be kind of a pain in the butt to deal with. I'll see if I can find it on diy-efi ftp site.
dave w
1/2 ton status
The headers will need more Acceleration Enrichment, about 10% more to start with.
I attached a couple .zip bin files, AMUR & ARJT
dave w
You need to get another email to keep Gmail or you will loose it, they are starting to make people change passwords by sending mail to original account.
Here's ARJT my ADSU with Lean Cruise and the good $42 files...
Here's ARJT my ADSU with Lean Cruise and the good $42 files...
Thanks Dave. If I floor the accel pedal it'll sputter and sometimes backfire. I tried upping the accel enrichment by 25% across the board for TPS, MAP and temp related tables. It seemed to help, but I still got it to stumble a few times. I'm still working the VE table, but I think I'll keep pumping up the accel tables until it seems like it's too much.
dave w
1/2 ton status
I typically fix the VE table first, then adjust the Acceleration Enrichment tables later on. It's my understanding the the Acceleration Enrichment is calculated from the VE Table values.
dave w
I think part of the problem is that the acceleration cells in the VE table (low RPM, high MAP) don't get hit much so are hard to tune. I tried using the TunerPro graphical visualization to pull up that corner of the table and then smooth it. I haven't tried it yet, but hopefully it'll help.
This thing just keeps wanting more and more fuel. I went on three tuning drives tonight and two last night. It started with BLM values up to 160 and I've worked it down to most being 130s, but still a few above 150. VE can't go above 100, right? Do you guys think I should up the BPW to get the VE values down a little? I've got one VE up at 98.
Well your not supposed to go above 100 but if you add VE Main and VE adder in 1227747 they are above 100...
But if it keeps changing, needing more and more fuel you may have something wrong like fuel pressure, suction in tank? Exhaust leak before O2 sensor...
But if it keeps changing, needing more and more fuel you may have something wrong like fuel pressure, suction in tank? Exhaust leak before O2 sensor...
Suction in the tank is an interesting thought. I put a junkyard evap canister in to get through emissions testing and for all I know it is a complete blockage to venting. I really have no idea how it works. One tube from the vent, another to the throttle body. Maybe I'll open it up and see if there's a difference.
I did consider it last night and quickly ran around and opened the filler after I pulled in to see if there was any hiss. There wasn't.
Maybe I'll open it up and see if there's a difference.I did consider it last night and quickly ran around and opened the filler after I pulled in to see if there was any hiss. There wasn't.
Correction, the main VE table has a peak of around 90, but the adder table is also at 40, so I'm at 130% total. I wonder what this means. I've been reading that if this goes over 100%, it'll just truncate to 100, so no wonder I can't turn it up high enough. I could increase the BPW, but I think you're supposed to have a reason for that - it's supposed to be a fixed function of flow rate and engine displacement.
