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What carb for 454

I had better luck with the street avenger than the truck avenger, even on the dunes and hills. The truck avenger sucked. Actually the custom double pumper I made myself from piece of carbs was way more fun to drive.

I can get Holley, Edelbrock, or Jet carbs. Or other race carbs but not applicable here. It sounds like a Qjet won't fit your intake anyway.

You could get a street avenger and put a fuel hose to connect the vent tubes and cut a couple slits in the top of it. You could also add jet extensions and a notched float to the back bowl.

If you are tuning your engine to run well the timing at idle is only going to tell you how well it idles. That should be tuned after the WOT timing by limiting the mechanical and vacuum advance.

I recommend you disconnect the vacuum advance temporarily, rev the engine to 3000 - 4000 RPM, where it has the max timing, and then set the timing there to about 34 degrees. Then reconnect the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum, not ported, it will like it better. If the timing is causing issues it idle you need to limit it with the weights, not change your timing at WOT to help it idle.

If you do end up getting a new carb, I would be happy to ship one to you. Or EFI, and kiss the carb issues good bye. I have a BBC PF4 in stock....:whistle: I also have Holley parts in stock to make a whole kit while using Edelbrock or Holley intake.

OR we can get you a terminator X stealth system to bolt onto your current intake. That computer will work with MPFI as well if you upgrade down the road.
 
folkenheath said:
I had better luck with the street avenger than the truck avenger, even on the dunes and hills. The truck avenger sucked. Actually the custom double pumper I made myself from piece of carbs was way more fun to drive.

I can get Holley, Edelbrock, or Jet carbs. Or other race carbs but not applicable here. It sounds like a Qjet won't fit your intake anyway.

You could get a street avenger and put a fuel hose to connect the vent tubes and cut a couple slits in the top of it. You could also add jet extensions and a notched float to the back bowl.

If you are tuning your engine to run well the timing at idle is only going to tell you how well it idles. That should be tuned after the WOT timing by limiting the mechanical and vacuum advance.

I recommend you disconnect the vacuum advance temporarily, rev the engine to 3000 - 4000 RPM, where it has the max timing, and then set the timing there to about 34 degrees. Then reconnect the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum, not ported, it will like it better. If the timing is causing issues it idle you need to limit it with the weights, not change your timing at WOT to help it idle.

If you do end up getting a new carb, I would be happy to ship one to you. Or EFI, and kiss the carb issues good bye. I have a BBC PF4 in stock....:whistle: I also have Holley parts in stock to make a whole kit while using Edelbrock or Holley intake.

OR we can get you a terminator X stealth system to bolt onto your current intake. That computer will work with MPFI as well if you upgrade down the road.
Click to expand...
Love your input. I called Holly, and with my platform, needing more torque than horse power, and altitude driving around 5000 ft, they recommended down jetting from the 68 primary to about 63, which I have in her now, and the 89 secondary to 87, which I also have, but need to install. I don’t have a draw down timing light, so I’ll have to see how to get one on it for adjustment at 3000-4000 rpm’s. Holly also said I won’t get the street performance as much as the mountain driving, but that’s ok for me. I’m already outside my budget on carburetors, lol with the wife. Lol. So, I’m going to try everything I can to get this one to work. The timing adjustment I made already, definitely showed huge improvement. So I know now, that I can dig myself out of this situation fairly cost affective. Question. How do I time at 34, when my plate only goes to 16, before?
 
Does your timing light have settings? Mine goes from 0-60 degrees. Rev engine as stated to 3000-4000, set your timing light to 34 degrees and rotate dist. until the balancer is at 0, lock it down there.
 
77snowwheeler said:
Love your input. I called Holly, and with my platform, needing more torque than horse power, and altitude driving around 5000 ft, they recommended down jetting from the 68 primary to about 63, which I have in her now, and the 89 secondary to 87, which I also have, but need to install. I don’t have a draw down timing light, so I’ll have to see how to get one on it for adjustment at 3000-4000 rpm’s. Holly also said I won’t get the street performance as much as the mountain driving, but that’s ok for me. I’m already outside my budget on carburetors, lol with the wife. Lol. So, I’m going to try everything I can to get this one to work. The timing adjustment I made already, definitely showed huge improvement. So I know now, that I can dig myself out of this situation fairly cost affective. Question. How do I time at 34, when my plate only goes to 16, before?
Click to expand...

Then just measure and make a mark. Do you have an 8" balancer?

8" balancer x pi = 25.1327 / 360 = .0698 * 34 = 2.372" So make a mark at 2 3/8" from zero on your balancer, that's your 34 degree mark. If you are off by 1/16" it will be about a degree, try to be accurate. If you have a 7" balancer redo the math, my app also does this for you just to be quicker but this one is super simple anyway.
 
Chickntrk said:
Does your timing light have settings? Mine goes from 0-60 degrees. Rev engine as stated to 3000-4000, set your timing light to 34 degrees and rotate dist. until the balancer is at 0, lock it down there.
Click to expand...
I just bought a hobo freight light. The cheap one but it’s adjustable. I’m thinking of timing it first, then put in the new distributor. I was thinking, then I could just drop in same spot.
 
77snowwheeler said:
I just bought a hobo freight light. The cheap one but it’s adjustable. I’m thinking of timing it first, then put in the new distributor. I was thinking, then I could just drop in same spot.
Click to expand...
So, got the timing done. Didn’t replace the distributor yet. Going to keep it handy, though. Put a vacuum gauge on it. Got as much as 45psi. Running ok. Going to put a one inch spacer on for fuel, and maybe a tiny bit or performance. The Edelbrock had one on it, and it did really good. I think that’s all I’ll do this year. Unless the ICM blows. Then I’ll replace the distributor and check the valves. Might do a compression check as well. Make sure it’s consistent. Any thoughts???
 
45 psi? You should have got inches of vaccuum…and there’s no way you got 45 in HG, something must be off there
 
Chickntrk said:
45 psi? You should have got inches of vaccuum…and there’s no way you got 45 in HG, something must be off there
Click to expand...
I’ll double check my gauge.
Chickntrk said:
45 psi? You should have got inches of vaccuum…and there’s no way you got 45 in HG, something must be off there
Click to expand...
on the gauge inside is 45, but the outside must be inches. So that would be about 18
 
That makes much more sense, 18 is a good reading, engine must be pretty healthy.
 
nvrenuf said:
I ran Holley carbs forever (vac sec and dbl pumpers, even a Dominator) but for a non racing motor I absolutely love the user friendly-ness of my electric choke qjet. It runs great but it’s not spicey like double pumper Holleys which is ok for me now.

My smelly opinion, get a pro built electric choke qjet, stick with a good HEI and mechanical fuel pump - these pieces are dead azz reliable.

I wouldn’t consider replacing your existing fuel pump unless a test gauge shows inadequate pressure or it’s leaking from the weep hole.

Throw in a good tune up also (probably FIRST).
Click to expand...
I second that
 
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