That should be check #1. Turn key to run, check for power at IP (big pink wire)
CK5
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What did I do????? Column and switches oh my
- Thread starter blazinzuk
- Start date
Plug probably came loose from the gp controller while you were farting around with other stuff..my plug used to that at weird times
Sorry, i typed that as you did above.
I'm gonna say there will be no power there...just gonna call that now.
Thanks Rene now I don't even have to do any searching lol
I will send you cookies if you called it
lol. Still a weird issue. The NS switch cuts power to the starter...that's it.
Yeah. There aren't many electrical problems that can happen with a 6.2. And none of them except the GPs can cause an ignition failure. And even the plugs shouldn't be needed if you're using ether.
I'm hoping and betting that the starting fluid is just a red herring.
Weird--It should have fired up and ran on the ether for at least a few seconds--even if the fuel shutoff switch was not activating...
But,it might be possible--the starting fluid I used to get my Burb to finally start smelled potent--but I ended up having to use the glow plugs and spray a lot more than I felt safe using,before it finally started...
I think much of todays "starting fluid" isn't as explosive as the
old stuff we used to get--not every brand works the same !..
I was frustrated to the point I didn't care if I blew the dam thing up,I had been going at trying to get the thing to start for 2 days after killing the battery numerous times,jump starting it with my pickup--I finally said screw this,and left the glow plugs "on" for a good 20 seconds and gave it more ether while spinning it over,and she finally roared to life..I'm guessing the thing got airbound from sitting too long between start ups...
But,it might be possible--the starting fluid I used to get my Burb to finally start smelled potent--but I ended up having to use the glow plugs and spray a lot more than I felt safe using,before it finally started...
I think much of todays "starting fluid" isn't as explosive as the
old stuff we used to get--not every brand works the same !..
I was frustrated to the point I didn't care if I blew the dam thing up,I had been going at trying to get the thing to start for 2 days after killing the battery numerous times,jump starting it with my pickup--I finally said screw this,and left the glow plugs "on" for a good 20 seconds and gave it more ether while spinning it over,and she finally roared to life..I'm guessing the thing got airbound from sitting too long between start ups...
Um um um.
Got fuel. Glow plugs functioning ( haven't tested to see if good.
If the crank is broken I would hear it wouldn't I?
Got fuel. Glow plugs functioning ( haven't tested to see if good.
If the crank is broken I would hear it wouldn't I?
Probably,though I've seen a few engines that had broken cranks that were still able to run due to the jagged edges at the break allowing the pieces to still turn as a unit...they sounded like the hammers of hell while running however!..
I doubt that is why yours wont start though..even 6.2's cranks don't "usually" break too easily,though many have been known too..
It is highly unlikely all the glow plugs aren't functioning ,unless a fusible link fried on the harness to them--there are two of them so even if one did fry,the other 4 should still work..and with ether it should try to fire at least..
When was the last time this engine ran ?--and whats been done since it wont start,besides the ignition switch dilema ?...that might help us diagnose it..
I have found neither of my 6.2's like to start unless they are whipping over full tilt--let the batteries get drained and the cranking speed drops off even a bit,it'll be much harder to get them to fire up..
I doubt that is why yours wont start though..even 6.2's cranks don't "usually" break too easily,though many have been known too..
It is highly unlikely all the glow plugs aren't functioning ,unless a fusible link fried on the harness to them--there are two of them so even if one did fry,the other 4 should still work..and with ether it should try to fire at least..
When was the last time this engine ran ?--and whats been done since it wont start,besides the ignition switch dilema ?...that might help us diagnose it..
I have found neither of my 6.2's like to start unless they are whipping over full tilt--let the batteries get drained and the cranking speed drops off even a bit,it'll be much harder to get them to fire up..
Started no idea what was wrong.
Thing slipped off the jack the other day.
Yep oil pan bent. FML
Thing slipped off the jack the other day.
Yep oil pan bent. FML
How much does your volt meter dip when the GPs are running? I'm thinking that you just have a few that are actually heating up. Hence the sometimes working, sometimes not. 
Your next step may be to pull out the ohmmeter.
Your next step may be to pull out the ohmmeter.
My next step is to fix the oil pan. Then just replace the glow plugs as I have new ones
Will the pan come off with out pulling the motor ?
Do you need some help ?
I have Thursday and Friday off, have a Dr. appt. Friday but I can change it.
Do you need some help ?
I have Thursday and Friday off, have a Dr. appt. Friday but I can change it.
Props to KG on offering a hand! That is stand up there man..........
I did a pan and RMS on my 6.2 without lifting the engine, not bad at all.
I wound up having to tilt the front of the engine up 1/2" or so to get the front of the oil pan to clear. Wasn't the funnest thing I have done, but it was tedious, not difficult. Eric should be able to knock it out with or without help.
I've read the oil pan can be replaced in the truck but you "may have to remove the drivers side motor mount bolt and raise the engine up about 2" to gain clearance" on some models..
I think the 4x4 trucks it'll drop down without having to do that,or not be raised up much if it has to be done..the hardest part will be getting the pan back up in there without smearing all the RTV or gasket off against all the obstacles...I could only get a cork 2 piece gasket in Fel-Pro-no one lists a one piece one here,that I could find..not for a 6.2 anyways,only small block gas engines..
The oil pan in my truck has been rotted and leaky for a long time--I have two good used pans I can swap on it--if I could lie under it that long...
I have begged my friend to replace it for me on his lift,and I'd pay him whatever he wanted,but he's scared of my truck,knowing everything is so rusty it'll likely become a big headache,and he fears if the oil pans I have turn out to be "wrong" it'll be stuck on his lift for days..
So,instead of trying to replace it myself and risk not being able to complete the job---I have fudged it by using J-B Waterweld putty,when that failed after a year or so,I drained the oil,let it drain a full day--then washed the pan off good with 2 cans of brake cleaner,wire brushed it and got all the scabs off--and I put two bolts in the spots that had become holes (one bolt is a 7/16 flywheel bolt!) and the other is a sheet metal screw about 1/4" diameter..
The crank doesn't go very far below the block's "rails" where the pan bolts on,so I was not worried about those bolts hitting anything..they are short too,maybe 1/2" long..
The only thing I'd be worried about on your oil pan is if it caved in where the oil pump pickup sits ,about 3/4" off the bottom of the rear part of the pan..if it got dented there,it might restrict oil flow,or have dislodged the pick up screen from the tube..you could probably just use a slide hammer dent puller to pull the dent out and plug the hole with a screw,braze it,or J-B weld,if you think the pick up screen & tube is still OK..
I coated the entire leaky area on my oil pan with Mar Glass short strand fiberglass body filler,and I had two more pinholes appear further away I "missed" and didn't see,so I used a shop vac on the oil filler pipe to apply suction to stop the drippage and I sprayed it clean with brake cleaner and applied Permatex black RTV to the pan,and so far,it has not leaked at all in a good year--from the oil pan at least--it does have another leak somewhere around the oil cooler hose ports,but its minor,I only need to add a 1/4 quart once a month or so..
I'm hoping by the time the pan needs replacing ,the truck will be "done" and parted out or sold by then..
I think the 4x4 trucks it'll drop down without having to do that,or not be raised up much if it has to be done..the hardest part will be getting the pan back up in there without smearing all the RTV or gasket off against all the obstacles...I could only get a cork 2 piece gasket in Fel-Pro-no one lists a one piece one here,that I could find..not for a 6.2 anyways,only small block gas engines..
The oil pan in my truck has been rotted and leaky for a long time--I have two good used pans I can swap on it--if I could lie under it that long...
I have begged my friend to replace it for me on his lift,and I'd pay him whatever he wanted,but he's scared of my truck,knowing everything is so rusty it'll likely become a big headache,and he fears if the oil pans I have turn out to be "wrong" it'll be stuck on his lift for days..
So,instead of trying to replace it myself and risk not being able to complete the job---I have fudged it by using J-B Waterweld putty,when that failed after a year or so,I drained the oil,let it drain a full day--then washed the pan off good with 2 cans of brake cleaner,wire brushed it and got all the scabs off--and I put two bolts in the spots that had become holes (one bolt is a 7/16 flywheel bolt!) and the other is a sheet metal screw about 1/4" diameter..
The crank doesn't go very far below the block's "rails" where the pan bolts on,so I was not worried about those bolts hitting anything..they are short too,maybe 1/2" long..
The only thing I'd be worried about on your oil pan is if it caved in where the oil pump pickup sits ,about 3/4" off the bottom of the rear part of the pan..if it got dented there,it might restrict oil flow,or have dislodged the pick up screen from the tube..you could probably just use a slide hammer dent puller to pull the dent out and plug the hole with a screw,braze it,or J-B weld,if you think the pick up screen & tube is still OK..
I coated the entire leaky area on my oil pan with Mar Glass short strand fiberglass body filler,and I had two more pinholes appear further away I "missed" and didn't see,so I used a shop vac on the oil filler pipe to apply suction to stop the drippage and I sprayed it clean with brake cleaner and applied Permatex black RTV to the pan,and so far,it has not leaked at all in a good year--from the oil pan at least--it does have another leak somewhere around the oil cooler hose ports,but its minor,I only need to add a 1/4 quart once a month or so..
I'm hoping by the time the pan needs replacing ,the truck will be "done" and parted out or sold by then..
