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What did I do wrong? Round 2

wetoolowdingbangow

wetoolowdingbangow

1/2 ton status
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Ok so ive recently swapped in a 14 bolt ff in place of my semi float. Ive run into several issues as usual.

Im still running an np208 so I have a slip yoke and it worked at an appropriate range when the semi float was in. My pinion angle was horrendous though so I started fresh with new perches on the full float.

After bolting up the axle with the perches loose so I can rotate the axle and center it. I noticed the drive shaft is about 4 inches short now when the axle is in the proper position angularly. On top of that fun im binding now. When the axle is pitched up at 10 degrees I gain some distance and theres less binding. So to hell with proper pinion angle? im not sure what to do here. Its obviously a combination of things here thats making life difficult. Should I lengthen the drive shaft and run the unfavorable, non binding pinion angle? This truck isnt a daily driver and will be trailered to the trailer. I may do an hour drive here and there.

I'm not sure where ive accrued this large of an error. I went from lift springs to 56s, zero rate in the 1 inch back position and a shackle flip. I've measured the center pin location on the leaf spring and I know im in the right area. I also measured the wheel base which is 108 ish (d60 pushed forward 1.5") which means im where I should be.
 
K85 Octane said:
Really hard to do with a shackle flip. How come no CV?
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Yeah I asked around about this before I started and of course everyone says it can work, no one says the amount of pain involved. I have a slip yoke in the transfer case which isnt going to change until a doubler goes in.
 
One potential spot for a change in your length is of the pinion on the diff. The full floater is quite a big bigger than the semi floater which will shorten the distance between the two yokes and make your angles worse.

Without a CV you need to set the angles between the slip yoke and the pinion u joints to be the same. So if there is a 15 degree angle between the output of the t-case and the driveshaft you should have the same at the diff. You will need an angle finder to do this (most smart phones can be used as an angle finder if you download an app for it).

I usually tend to set the yoke on the diff a degree or so high as the nose will dip down when you load the diff up which will set your angles better while you drive. If you've gained enough height and lost enough length that your driveshaft yokes are binding then you pretty much have no choice but to do a slip yoke elimination or lower the truck.
 
So you went from lifted 52's to 56's, and the zero rate another inch back? There is your difference right there. Maybe a picture will tell the story better.:dunno: You would have to have quite the lifted rig to have 10 plus degrees of pinion angle.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Yeah I asked around about this before I started and of course everyone says it can work, no one says the amount of pain involved. I have a slip yoke in the transfer case which isnt going to change until a doubler goes in.
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You can run a slip style shaft with a CV. When you go doubler, the driveshaft will more than likely get shorter, so chances are very good you'll be able to reuse most of the tubing, CV, and go to a yoke set up.

Need an opinion if it's possible to use half a CV and mount it to a transfercase yoke. Or if something is different.
 
jekquistk5 said:
So you went from lifted 52's to 56's, and the zero rate another inch back? There is your difference right there. Maybe a picture will tell the story better.:dunno: You would have to have quite the lifted rig to have 10 plus degrees of pinion angle.
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Correct. I went from 4 inch lift 52s to 8 leaf 56s without the overload and adding a zero rate block. I know by being 1 inch back im in the stock location as far as wheelbase goes, so in my mind i must atleast run the 1 inch back setting.

I will post some pics this afternoon! I roughly measured but im maybe an inch or so taller than stock. That measurement was made with weight on the axle.

Im also using the stock shackle which it around 4 inches. I dont suppose a 6 inch would help.
 
Ok so after thinking about things and doing some research i may have an answer.

I really cant afford for a CV shaft to be made.

I think what i need to do is to get the driveshaft lengthened ($120) which will put me back in the working range of the slip yoke. Before i collect that measurement Im thinking about moving the axle back to the 1.5 setting. The extra .5" back will decrease the driveshaft angle, which in turn lets me run less of a wild pinion angle and i can get away from the binding at that point.

Is this logical?
 
skunked said:
worth a try but I don't see the 1/2" move back doing much.
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Im just trying to make this work without going crazy. i know anyone doing serious wheeling isnt using a slip yoke but i was under the impression you could get by until you get crazy with the flex.
 
wetoolowdingbangow said:
Im just trying to make this work without going crazy. i know anyone doing serious wheeling isnt using a slip yoke but i was under the impression you could get by until you get crazy with the flex.
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I don't see the slip yoke being the issue here, it's the lack of a CV that's causing the grief. If you could point your pinion at the t-case you should be good.

When is it binding? At full droop? No pics so it's my imagination at work.....
 
skunked said:
I don't see the slip yoke being the issue here, it's the lack of a CV that's causing the grief. If you could point your pinion at the t-case you should be good.

When is it binding? At full droop? No pics so it's my imagination at work.....
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Ok i can understand that. Yeah i may have to point it up a the tcase. It stopped binding at 10 degrees with weight on the axle, which means i need more than ten to take into account the droop.

Ill get pics this afternoon...

Im going to be hating life if ihave to swap to np205 and a cv
 
I'd be looking to add a CV and be done with it.

and by adding a CV you may not need to retube the shaft since the CV will add the necessary length you need. Worth a phone call to the driveshaft shop.
 
skunked said:
I'd be looking to add a CV and be done with it.

and by adding a CV you may not need to retube the shaft since the CV will add the necessary length you need. Worth a phone call to the driveshaft shop.
Click to expand...

So I got a front driveshaft here that has a cv. Maybe I can have the driveline shop make something out of it and the old shaft?
 
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