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What does a CV rear driveshaft cost?

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sickquad

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Anybody have a rear driveshaft for there K5 from high angle driveline? About what do they cost? I'm trying to fix a few problems without a ton of money.

-Chris
 
Paid $399.00 for mine with a c/v and 1310 and 1330 u-joints and also had to get a 32 spline flange to bolt it to for $85. Got it from Tom Woods
 
Around $350 from Dennys. 1330 CV and 1350 on the other end. This is for a fixed yoke 205 to 14bff. Reason I went 1330 on the cv was that I used a ford bronco yoke.
 
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i think i was qouted 390(including member10% discount) for a CV w/ 1350 joints in it from High Angle. shoot him an email. nice guy
 
Rear CV driveshafts are cheap if you go to the salvage yard and pull a 1330 rear CV shaft from an 80s Bronco.

You could put the CV yoke right on the back of my fixed yoke NP208, and have the shaft shortened or lenthened as needed for very little $.

I even have one of these shafts in the garage.
 
thebigdaddyof2 said:
Rear CV driveshafts are cheap if you go to the salvage yard and pull a 1330 rear CV shaft from an 80s Bronco.
Click to expand...

And then you still have a 1/2 ton rated rear driveline in a fullsize truck. Definitely not suggested and High Angle will not build a shaft for a fullsize truck with 35s or bigger unless it is 1 ton rated.

thor said:
Around $350 from Dennys. 1330 CV and 1350 on the other end. This is for a fixed yoke 205 to 14bff. Reason I went 1330 on the cv was that I used a ford bronco yoke.
Click to expand...

You paid $350 for a 1/2 ton rated driveline?

kgblazerfive said:
Paid $399.00 for mine with a c/v and 1310 and 1330 u-joints and also had to get a 32 spline flange to bolt it to for $85. Got it from Tom Woods
Click to expand...

Once again, another 1/2 ton C/V?

Guys,

I'll say it in the nicest way possible. Please don't spend that kind of money on a 1/2 ton driveline. Jesse will get you hooked up with 1 ton rated stuff with a 1410 on the rear pinion, flanges, and yokes, and it's not going to cost much more than you're paying for this 1/2 ton trash. Please don't let anyone sell you on a 1310 or 1330 C/V. It will not hold up in this application over the test of time.
 
84_Chevy_K10 said:
And then you still have a 1/2 ton rated rear driveline in a fullsize truck. Definitely not suggested and High Angle will not build a shaft for a fullsize truck with 35s or bigger unless it is 1 ton rated.



You paid $350 for a 1/2 ton rated driveline?



Once again, another 1/2 ton C/V?

Guys,

I'll say it in the nicest way possible. Please don't spend that kind of money on a 1/2 ton driveline. Jesse will get you hooked up with 1 ton rated stuff with a 1410 on the rear pinion, flanges, and yokes, and it's not going to cost much more than you're paying for this 1/2 ton trash. Please don't let anyone sell you on a 1310 or 1330 C/V. It will not hold up in this application over the test of time.
Click to expand...

word:deal:

what he said, i love my 1350 cv rear...and it hold up to my driving!


a healthy big block, 38's and some stupidity and she is still together!
 
The only reason to choose a 1310 driveline over a 1350 is if you need more angle and have a lightweight rig.
Otherwise go 1350. Or 1410 if you need more angle.
 
Rear shaft is 1350 to a 1410.

front shaft is 1350 hi angle cv and a 1350 d60 yoke with a 1" longer slip and 120 wall 2.5" tubing. Mine was $450.00 from Steve at southbay driveline 408-995-6000.
 
All this about U joints, and nothing to answer the question. Same one I was looking to ask. I just installed a 4" lift, 84 K5, I have driveshaft vibration, a CV joint would eliminate, I want to keep my driveshaft, does anyone make a cv joint that will use my NP205 output shaft, and my driveshaft? I dont need 1 ton equipment, or anything too expensive. I'm using a 3011 Brute Force (www.neapco.com) U joint now. The CV joint would just about put the driveshaft back into the transfer where it was before the lift, or close to it.
 
208 ?

obviouslly i have a 208 and wanted to change to a fixed yoke... in changing this to a fixd yoke will the pinoin angle change because it has been shortened??? and how to get a fixed yoke on a 208??
 
stumblefoot said:
All this about U joints, and nothing to answer the question. Same one I was looking to ask. I just installed a 4" lift, 84 K5, I have driveshaft vibration, a CV joint would eliminate, I want to keep my driveshaft, does anyone make a cv joint that will use my NP205 output shaft, and my driveshaft? I dont need 1 ton equipment, or anything too expensive. I'm using a 3011 Brute Force (www.neapco.com) U joint now. The CV joint would just about put the driveshaft back into the transfer where it was before the lift, or close to it.
Click to expand...

Do you have a fixed yoke or a slip yoke on the t-case?
Adding axle shims would also eliminate your vibration and would be considerably cheaper.
 
I have a HAD rear C/V shaft and i paid $489.00 for the shaft and it is 1350 all the way then i had to buy a flange which was another $89.00. This was all about 4 years ago or better so pricing has changed i'm sure.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I have a HAD rear C/V shaft and i paid $489.00 for the shaft and it is 1350 all the way then i had to buy a flange which was another $89.00. This was all about 4 years ago or better so pricing has changed i'm sure.
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Not by much. Jess quoted me a price of $563 for a CV shaft, patented flange and u-bolt yoke for a 14bff.
 
Obviously you've swapped in the NP205 and from what you're saying i'm guessing it is a rear slip yoke style. Jesse makes a slip C/V for the 208/241 and i'm not sure if that application will work for your slip yoke 205 but i think it will. You would however have to cut the drive shaft and remove the existing yoke and then weld on and rebalance the shaft after the installation of the C/V yoke.
 
Sorry... yeah, that's for an NP205 but it's a fixed-yoke.
The original poster never specified what t-case he was running (and hasn't posted since), so I didn't specify mine.

Shaft prices won't vary much, though.
 
All this about U joints, and nothing to answer the question. Same one I was looking to ask. I just installed a 4" lift, 84 K5, I have driveshaft vibration, a CV joint would eliminate, I want to keep my driveshaft, does anyone make a cv joint that will use my NP205 output shaft, and my driveshaft? I dont need 1 ton equipment, or anything too expensive. I'm using a 3011 Brute Force (www.neapco.com) U joint now. The CV joint would just about put the driveshaft back into the transfer where it was before the lift, or close to it.
Click to expand...

My response wasn't directed at you but rather to stumblefoot. You can read what he wrote and see what i mean.
 
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