CK5
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What does everyone think of my beautiful frame?
- Thread starter GsxrMike
- Start date
badmix
1/2 ton status
wow...I like it, Id luv to strip my K5 down like that. Id box in the frame and fill in all the unnecessary holes.
reddog64
1/2 ton status
Now you wont want to get it dirty...
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
I can't wait to get it dirty! I had to redo the drivetrain anyway so I just blasted the frame and painted with POR-15. I going to do the same with the bottom side of the body. Check out my other thread!
adamforsythe
1/2 ton status
I'd have sex with it 
I'd have sex with it
Weld on some uncapped tube and squirt on some KY
Nice clean frame, by the way. I have a frame in my buddy's possesion, don't think I'll paint it but I'd box the stress areas and add more bracing between the rails.
SANDblast and POR15?
Steve GMC
1/2 ton status
i used rust bullet and blackshell on mine when i sandblasted it, i will never use por15 after seeing my friend sand blast his frame and por coming off in a year, then it was all rusty again
royjones
Trucker upper
Purty
its PURDY
its PURDY
neither POR or Rust Bullett is the proper way to do it...
man, I've come to HATE both those products... Cuz people sling em around and think its some miracle product...
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
Whats wrong with blasting my frame and using POR 15? I put alot of work into my frame so maybe you could enlighten me as to the "proper way to do it"
Why use a rust encapsilator when ya have no rust? crusty under-carriage that you're not gonna blast, sure.. bare steel, nope...
Drives me nuts to see someone go thru the trouble to do it right by blasting it, then not use the proper priming procedures...
zinc chromate, epoxy primer and urethane topcoat is the proper way to coat bare steel..... Tho it is a more expensive solution, but if you've gone thru the trouble/expense to blast it, a few more bucks on materials seems to be paltry imho.... throw in some metal conditioner to be exceptionally anal...
I've been using POR15 for 20 yrs, great product, but it has it's purposes and limitations... Even when using Metal-Ready and a good topcoat, there are better choices for raw steel...
Don't get me wrong, the fact you blasted it should give you many trouble-free years, as long as you topcoat it.. But as far as a bare steel, coating system I prefer more traditional methods..
Drives me nuts to see someone go thru the trouble to do it right by blasting it, then not use the proper priming procedures...
zinc chromate, epoxy primer and urethane topcoat is the proper way to coat bare steel..... Tho it is a more expensive solution, but if you've gone thru the trouble/expense to blast it, a few more bucks on materials seems to be paltry imho.... throw in some metal conditioner to be exceptionally anal...
I've been using POR15 for 20 yrs, great product, but it has it's purposes and limitations... Even when using Metal-Ready and a good topcoat, there are better choices for raw steel...
Don't get me wrong, the fact you blasted it should give you many trouble-free years, as long as you topcoat it.. But as far as a bare steel, coating system I prefer more traditional methods..
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Posts like this always make me wonder.
Were you looking for validation....congratulatory strokes, or actual honest opinions???
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
mostly the first 2...but i'm always game for an honest opinion! I will go crawl back in my hole now....
Just trying to help spread a little info... I very well couldn't just pat you on the back without giving my honest opinion...
All that being said, I can certainly appreciate the effort and fearlessness of going right down to the frame... keep up the diligence!
All that being said, I can certainly appreciate the effort and fearlessness of going right down to the frame... keep up the diligence!
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the encouragment! This is my first "real" build so im a little sketchy on getting everything right the first time. I went down and grabbed a can of POR from my basment and it says "Rusted metal is an excellent surface to paint onto, seasoned and sandblasted metal is also good." Can you tell me what will happen if I don't use a top coat? I hate to wait any longer to put this thing back together (might not remember how...lol) but I don't know if i "have to" put on a top coat. I know POR isn't protected against UV light but it will never be in direct sun light...I hope!
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I didn't know por 15 was a bad choice for bare metal either. You always see on their ads how tough and long lasting it is. I painted a few things with it before. It lasted a long time but I did put a chassis black coat from eastwood over it. That stuff comes in spray cans and I had it on there for a few years. No rust broke through. I didn't go to bare metal though. I would suggest topcaoting it. The stuff will get real dull and ugly with contact with sun and weather. It has no resistance to UV. I think the frame looks pretty good and anything is better than just leaving it rusty.
I didn't know por 15 was a bad choice for bare metal either. You always see on their ads how tough and long lasting it is. I painted a few things with it before. It lasted a long time but I did put a chassis black coat from eastwood over it. That stuff comes in spray cans and I had it on there for a few years. No rust broke through. I didn't go to bare metal though. I would suggest topcaoting it. The stuff will get real dull and ugly with contact with sun and weather. It has no resistance to UV. I think the frame looks pretty good and anything is better than just leaving it rusty.
GsxrMike
1/2 ton status
Where did you get "chassis black coat from eastwood" Can I get some stuff at Advance Auto Parts to put over it?
You really should topcoat it... even if you just run a scuff pad over it and rattlecan it with some Krylon... It will really help.. Tho not exposed to direct sunlight, it will begin to fail and peel over time without a topcoat...
And for the record guys, it's certainly not a horrible approach to the job.. a far cry better than lacquer primer or something.. I just wanted to make you aware of the proper procedures.. At least armed with that info, you can deviate as seen fit..
And for the record guys, it's certainly not a horrible approach to the job.. a far cry better than lacquer primer or something.. I just wanted to make you aware of the proper procedures.. At least armed with that info, you can deviate as seen fit..
I got it because it has lasted from an old project I had. It looks just like the original frame paint they used to use. I think I used around two or three cans before. But regular paint will probably work to. I suggest a non gloss paint. The glossy or semi gloss stuff gets dirty looking quick. The dull stuff stays looking good a lot longer.
