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what happened to 1/4 elliptical??

Big91RustyBucket said:
I like the 1/4 Idea. Not to keen on the 3/4 . Seem's kinda sketchy looking to me .
why's that? I was reading this guys thread (where I got the above pics) and he's been running this setup for almost 6 years. He drives it on the street too.
 
Coils are easier to do. Probably end up lighter too. The link setup and the shocks determine the travel mostly. Springs just hold up the vehicle. Depends on preference and fab skills.
 
ryan22re said:
Coils are easier to do. Probably end up lighter too. The link setup and the shocks determine the travel mostly. Springs just hold up the vehicle. Depends on preference and fab skills.

I think I'm sold on 1/4 elliptic. Here's why:

Basically, you have to have a link suspension to go with any of this. I fully plan on having a double triangulated 4 link.

After that, all you have to do is suspend the weight of the truck (the rear in my case). You have many options: coils, coilover shocks, 1/4 elliptic etc.

The reason that i like the 1/4 elliptic is mostly cost and tunability. Basically it will cost me shocks and some kind of used springs (practically free). Ride height and uptravel/downtravel can be controlled by removing/adding leaves and/or using bumpstops. Coilovers are ~$400 per corner. Its likely my 1/4 elliptic setup will cost more like $40 per corner.


Anyway, what I'm getting at is that the 1/4 elliptic suspension addresses only the components that support the vehicle which (believe it or not) are the least important component of the suspension.
 
Big91RustyBucket said:
I was just sayin bc it was getting more technical .
Not true. I haven't seen a single equation yet.
 
Blue85 said:
Not true. I haven't seen a single equation yet.


1 Full Leafspring + 1/2 Leafspring = 3/4 Elliptical



QUICK! Get this thread to the C.O.G.!! :D
 
Anybody ever try this stuff on a full size Burb? Probably wouldnt hold up too well for towing, I would think. Right now I'm just thinking lift, but if I could flex and tow, that would be awesome.
 
38377k5 said:
The reason that i like the 1/4 elliptic is mostly cost and tunability. Basically it will cost me shocks and some kind of used springs (practically free). Ride height and uptravel/downtravel can be controlled by removing/adding leaves and/or using bumpstops. Coilovers are ~$400 per corner. Its likely my 1/4 elliptic setup will cost more like $40 per corner.

actually tunability is a lot easier with coilovers. Ideally a 1/4 elliptic setup uses spring designed to be 1/4 elliptic, they are not just springs that you hack in half. In the end its just as much work as a 4 link with coils.

here is a link to read. yes I know this is a jeep article.

http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/quarterellip/
 
cabledawg said:
Anybody ever try this stuff on a full size Burb? Probably wouldnt hold up too well for towing, I would think. Right now I'm just thinking lift, but if I could flex and tow, that would be awesome.
i tried to tow a truck the other day with my burb...it has a shackle flip and too much angle (still havnt fixed that)...let me put it this way flex and tow are not 2 words that should be in the same sentence togher....the back end of my truck was squatting badly and the springs had begun to reverse arch....got the truck off very fast after that...
 
gmc4cw said:
actually tunability is a lot easier with coilovers. Ideally a 1/4 elliptic setup uses spring designed to be 1/4 elliptic, they are not just springs that you hack in half. In the end its just as much work as a 4 link with coils.

here is a link to read. yes I know this is a jeep article.

http://www.jeepaholics.com/tech/quarterellip/

Just as much work, sure. But, as I said before, coilovers are $4-500 per corner and the 1/4 elliptic costs ~1/10 of that. The only reason to run a 1/4 elliptic over coilovers is cost.
 
38377k5 said:
Just as much work, sure. But, as I said before, coilovers are $4-500 per corner and the 1/4 elliptic costs ~1/10 of that. The only reason to run a 1/4 elliptic over coilovers is cost.

I completely agree, but I didn't want anyone to think it was easy. the links are still gonna cost a lot more then leaf springs and require complex math, welding, and time to get them right.

thats why everyone sticks with leaves. its simple and works. I have wheeled with guys that can drive up and over a 30 degree ramp, it doesn't make their rig more capable off road. Flex isn't everything, traction is.
 
The reasoning for going to a 4 link is primarily traction, not flex.

The 4 link 100% prevents axle wrap, side to side movement, and if its setup right will have zero roll steer (the axle doesn't move forward or back at all when the suspension articulates). Leaves don't do a very good job of controlling any of this.

A properly setup 4 link suspension will hook up better than a leaf spring suspension. Period.
 
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38377k5 said:
The reasoning for going to a 4 link is primarily traction, not flex.

The 4 link 100% prevents axle wrap, side to side movement, and if its setup right will have zero roll steer (the axle doesn't move forward or back at all when the suspension articulates). Leaves allow all of these to happen.

A properly setup 4 link suspension will hook up better than a leaf spring suspension. Period.

My truck this winter is getting link's and 1 Ton's. For my S10.
I think's link's are cool , and more "modern".
But Some people build ramp champ's and it really doe's have not much to do with flex. I think ramp champ's are stupid , bc you can have all the flex in the world and it doesn't mean your rig is the best.
 
38377k5 said:
The reasoning for going to a 4 link is primarily traction, not flex.

The 4 link 100% prevents axle wrap, side to side movement, and if its setup right will have zero roll steer (the axle doesn't move forward or back at all when the suspension articulates). Leaves allow all of these to happen.

A properly setup 4 link suspension will hook up better than a leaf spring suspension. Period.

your damn avatar makes everything you type seem like an arguement. :D
 

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