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What kind of Lift do I have? (pics)

Nothing wrong with running the body lift hard...just that if you're doing rocks, it's better to keep the center of gravity lower and just trim the fenders to fit larger tires. Because a body lift doesn't raise the frame, it does nothing for your ground clearance, its sole purpose is to get the fenders up farther off of big tires.

But as others have already said, since the body lift is already on the truck, bolt on some big-a$$ tires and go 'wheeling!

I agree with others about the steering stablizers... ditch all but one...maybe two... get a stock bracket from a junk yard and toss the "fancy" brackets! No truck in good working order needs 4 steering stablizers... it's just bling at that point... or a cover-up for other steering issues that need repair.
 
what?!? new tires... you don't need new tires, those things are nice and beefy!!!! i'd rock it. :haha:

i think a set of wide 35's would look nice on that k5. also, with the smaller 35's you save a bundle over 38's. but since it's a street driven truck on a budget i would look into some ground hawgs as they last forever and are cheap. but from what i have heard they aren't the most comfortable tire.
 
Its going to only be street driven to go to an off-roading place..
 
I got a used set of mickey thompson 39x18.. they look like the baja radial ones.. there not in the best shape but paid $140 for them mounted on alluminum rims...
 
beast

My 2 cents compadre

Front suspension
1:Buy a greaseable poly main eye bushing kit from ORD (www.offroaddesign.com) and match it with their greasable HD front spring shackles. That will get you a beefy set of shackles with all new bushings for about $135.
2:Use a pair of ORD 1" zero rate add-a-leaves ($40/pair + the cost of 1" longer u-bolts)under both of the front springs to squeeze a little more height,for cheap, without sacrificing safety and without having to use taller/stiffer springs to fit your tires( and to help get rid of some of that body lift)
3: leave the shocks for now and see how they do when you take it out and put the beast to work

Rear suspension
1: ORD 4" shackle flip brackets to get rid of the nasty blocks, ORD 6.0" rear "supershackles" (1.5" longer than stock) with ORD's 4pc greaseable bushing kit, and 1" zero rates to get you a total of approx 6.5" out back to level the ride out and keep the flatter stock springs out back for a little better flex.

Body lift
Take it off and install ORD's 1" body lift mounts with new poly body bushings.

Then borrow a sawzall to trim off some fender metal

Then ,sorry to say(or not), get rid of the 39's! They're too big for your 1/2 ton axles bud. Save a little more coin and get your a decent set of 35-36" Mud Terrains or swampers, trust me. You'll bust 10bolt axles with the big 39's. Yes, even if you are careful.

So you're looking at spending about $700 in parts give or take ( you can cut that in half or more by buying the ORD hard-parts in good used condition on the for-sale boards here)

and roughly $500 for good used 35's or 36's depending on what kind of deal ya come across

I'd say about a grand total , plus go ahead and ditch two of the stabilizers and get the thing aligned at a good alignment shop when you're done!
 
I'm getting one tons 14ff/60 with 4.88s... but do plan on eventually doing your idea with the suspension once more money is avail.
 
TruckNutzDude said:
I counted at least 12 shocks on there... yet no pink shock boots?





And you call that a 4x4... :shame:

i think yellow is an ok substitute for pink. i didn't even realize all those shocks.
 
I totally agree, to many shocks but I didnt put em, would it be even better to remove one for each wheel?
 
I counted at least 12 shocks on there... yet no pink shock boots?





And you call that a 4x4... :shame:

i think yellow is an ok substitute for pink. i didn't even realize all those shocks.

Yellow is acceptable only if the shock itself is yellow and the vehicle has no more than 2" of lift. Pink is the mandatory color for shock boots on any "off road" vehicle with more than 4 shock absorbers built in the 1980's. :thumb: :p:
 

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