CK5
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What parts do I need to swap in 3/4 tons??
- Thread starter bigjohn79
- Start date
lectric80
3/4 ton status
Which axle are you using, ff or sf? I know that the semifloat 14 that I have at the house will use my existing cables, but from what I understand the ff has a couple of different setups.
Not sure on the cables. I've never hooked them back up, just went to discs. *shrug* I don't REMEMBER any difference in the basic hookup between the 1-ton 14bolt and the 1/2t POS I threw out... but like I said, I tossed the backing plates right off....
lectric80
3/4 ton status
The older 14ff will work, I don't remember the cutoff for the years, but there is a newer one in the 80's that uses different cables. For the older ones it should work without issue.
lordhelmet
Registered Member
When I swapped out the axles on my 85 K5, I used a 14bolt and dana 44. They were out of a 73 3/4 ton. The backing plates on the 14ff were not compatible with my e brake cables, so I swapped out the backing plates off of the 73 axle for a set of backing plates from a 95 14ff. Bought them from the dealer, couldn't find them anywhere else. 
Bolt on part and then the existing e brake cable was compatible. I can't say on the caliper, I used the set already on the 44. Just rebuilt them. But you will need new ubolts.
One other thing, your rear drive shaft may not work. The pumkin on the 14bolt is big enough that the drive shaft may be to long. Also the yoke on the 14 bolt will need a 1350 joint, your 10 bolt axle uses a 1310.
If the drive shaft is the correct length then get a trick u joint. 1310/1350 combo.
You will also need new wheels, 8 lug instead of 6 lug.
Bolt on part and then the existing e brake cable was compatible. I can't say on the caliper, I used the set already on the 44. Just rebuilt them. But you will need new ubolts. One other thing, your rear drive shaft may not work. The pumkin on the 14bolt is big enough that the drive shaft may be to long. Also the yoke on the 14 bolt will need a 1350 joint, your 10 bolt axle uses a 1310.
If the drive shaft is the correct length then get a trick u joint. 1310/1350 combo.
You will also need new wheels, 8 lug instead of 6 lug.
original balzer
1/2 ton status
Yea what helmet said!
If you have a 4-6 inch lift your drive shaft should be ok, If not its going to be to long. You will want to double check though. Your k5 being an 85 will have a 208 x-case witch means slip yoke rear output. If the driveshaft is too long, compression will damage the case if the slip yoke is pushed in too far.
Part list:
U-bolts
brake fluid
new front u-joint
rear convertion U-joint (1310-1350)
compatable parking brake parts (or parts to convert to disks)
new brakes all around
new front braided brake lines
new breather tubes and check valves for your axles
You will probably need to do something about shock mounts on the rear axle, you may want to check into beefing up the shock mounts on the frame as well.
shocks
case of black spray paint (you want your hard work to be pretty dont you?)
suspention lift if ya dont have one
Now if your not going to lift it you will need front sway bar bushings. If you are lifting it, or it is already lifted ditch the sway bar completly, front lift springs are stiff enough you wont need it.
My train of thought is while your there you might as well do all the work you plan on doing. Do it once kinda deal. I realize budget is a factor and doing it all at once may not be feasable right away. If thats the case I would buy what you can now and wait till you can buy the rest. There just isnt any sence in doing twice what you can do once. Also If you plan on lifting, a lot of the parts will be in the lift kit such as u-bolts.
Good luck, have fun!
If you have a 4-6 inch lift your drive shaft should be ok, If not its going to be to long. You will want to double check though. Your k5 being an 85 will have a 208 x-case witch means slip yoke rear output. If the driveshaft is too long, compression will damage the case if the slip yoke is pushed in too far.
Part list:
U-bolts
brake fluid
new front u-joint
rear convertion U-joint (1310-1350)
compatable parking brake parts (or parts to convert to disks)
new brakes all around
new front braided brake lines
new breather tubes and check valves for your axles
You will probably need to do something about shock mounts on the rear axle, you may want to check into beefing up the shock mounts on the frame as well.
shocks
case of black spray paint (you want your hard work to be pretty dont you?)
suspention lift if ya dont have one
Now if your not going to lift it you will need front sway bar bushings. If you are lifting it, or it is already lifted ditch the sway bar completly, front lift springs are stiff enough you wont need it.
My train of thought is while your there you might as well do all the work you plan on doing. Do it once kinda deal. I realize budget is a factor and doing it all at once may not be feasable right away. If thats the case I would buy what you can now and wait till you can buy the rest. There just isnt any sence in doing twice what you can do once. Also If you plan on lifting, a lot of the parts will be in the lift kit such as u-bolts.
Good luck, have fun!
lordhelmet
Registered Member
Just keep in mind that the ubolts will be different for the 14bolt than what a stock blazer would use. Different tube size.
