solowookie
1/2 ton status
I didn't get time to pull my diff cover today. I'm curious what I should look for when I pulled my diff cover tomorrow??? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
CK5
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what should I check for when inpsecting my axle?
- Thread starter solowookie
- Start date
Shaggy
3/4 ton status
<font color="green"> Loose metal bits are bad. Cracks in things are bad. Lots of metal shavings on the magnet are bad. A lack of any of these things is good. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif </font color>
I noticed a couple of things when I did mine. First, the metal shavings made my gear oil look pretty cool (tons of sparkly flakes /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif) Second, my gear oil also was a little milky, from moisture getting in at some point /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. This helped my gear oil look even cooler! And third, I found a tooth missing on one of the spider gears, But at least I have an excuse to get a locker /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
My buddy's 10 bolt had the sparkly silvery looking oil but everything looked OK. Finally he used a small pry bar and pried the carrier upwards and it moved about 3/8" up /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
Safe to say the silvery crap was the carrier bearing material...
Rene
Safe to say the silvery crap was the carrier bearing material...
Rene
solowookie
1/2 ton status
thanks guys... I will check it all out. shouldn't be too long today before I'm pulling that cover. I'm hoping I don't find anything too scary... /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
Jeff
Jeff
solowookie
1/2 ton status
ok - here goes... gears look OK to me. there are some tiny flakes of metal on the large gear (only shavings I could see), but there aren't that many. I put my pry bar on everything I could imagine, and I don't seem to be getting any play out of this stuff.
I've enclose some pictures (best ones I could manage). if there anything I'm missing? I'm thinking I may of just gotten extremely lucky.
(oh yea, and at the bottom is a decent pic of the yoke that was in here. lucky I didn't kill my entire family with this one! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif)
rear diff #1
rear diff #2
rear diff #3
old yoke - chalk another one up to mudfreak /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif coulda killed my family! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
I've enclose some pictures (best ones I could manage). if there anything I'm missing? I'm thinking I may of just gotten extremely lucky.
(oh yea, and at the bottom is a decent pic of the yoke that was in here. lucky I didn't kill my entire family with this one! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif)
rear diff #1
rear diff #2
rear diff #3
old yoke - chalk another one up to mudfreak /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif coulda killed my family! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
So was the yoke the problem??? It looks pretty beat to me, but hard to say looking at the pic. The diff itself doesn't look out of the ordinary...no chunks or busted teeth.
Rene
Rene
solowookie
1/2 ton status
no - I took that yoke off & put a new one one about 3-4 weeks ago (but haven't hardly driven it since then) - had it down getting the intake fixed).
anyway - evidently when I put the new yoke in it threw something out of wack (adjustment wise), or it never was right. I topped it off with gear oil before the trip too, and very little came out when I dropped the cover.
anyway - evidently when I put the new yoke in it threw something out of wack (adjustment wise), or it never was right. I topped it off with gear oil before the trip too, and very little came out when I dropped the cover.
Well there is a crush sleeve in behind there. Maybe you didn't have the new yoke tight enough or you had it too tight? You weren't installing a new crush sleeve so there should have been a torque value somewhere in your Haynes or Chiltons right? Or is it supposed to be tightened until there is 'X' amount of torque to spin the yoke?
Rene
Rene
solowookie
1/2 ton status
the guy in Idaho felt the yoke, and thought it was adjusted perfectly. I changed the yoke, but I did not use the new nut or crush sleeve. I torqued it to 150 ft/lbs.
Shaggy
3/4 ton status
<font color="green"> Well, it appears you installed the yoke a bit wrong. You're supposed to scribe the nut, yoke and pinion shaft, then return everything to where it was. If you changed the yoke then you should have taken a torque reading on the pinion bearing preload and then tightened the nut until you got back to that reading. Looks like you got lucky though. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif</font color>
solowookie
1/2 ton status
ok Shaggy... I understand the parts about if I was using the same yoke, but you lost me after that... (at least all the parts about how I would of done that - taken the torque reading etc.)
The amount of torque it takes to rotate the pinion should have been checked before any dis-assembly. This is usually measured in inch pounds. The new part should have been torqued until the same resistance was measured...
At least that's what i got out of Shaggy's 'esplanation'/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Rene
At least that's what i got out of Shaggy's 'esplanation'/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Rene
Shaggy
3/4 ton status
<font color="green"> Yeah, rene deciphered it correctly. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Sorry. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif </font color>
solowookie
1/2 ton status
ok - and how would of of checked that???
Shaggy
3/4 ton status
<font color="green"> A torque wrench, preferably the kind with the little pointer, not the clicker. Put it on the bolt and spin it gently to see how much drag it has. You can use an inch-lb clicker, but it's not quite as accurate.</font color>
Yeah I learned that the hard way.
I took the yoke off from a ten bolt and put it on the 12 bolt, and drove it for a couple of months then I started hearing noises, and a mechanic riding with me told me I had a bad pinion bearing, and when I told him what I did he explained how I should have done it, check the torque needed to turn the pinion before taking the nut off then replicating after putting it all together.
Well I didn't even check, I ditched the axle and went with a D60 FF rear.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
I took the yoke off from a ten bolt and put it on the 12 bolt, and drove it for a couple of months then I started hearing noises, and a mechanic riding with me told me I had a bad pinion bearing, and when I told him what I did he explained how I should have done it, check the torque needed to turn the pinion before taking the nut off then replicating after putting it all together.
Well I didn't even check, I ditched the axle and went with a D60 FF rear.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
solowookie
1/2 ton status
ok so let me get this right... I get the weight off the wheels, drop drive shaft, and use a torque wrench to gauge how much torque it takes to rotate the thing right? (for future referrence)
ok - so now that I didn't do that how do I got about resolving the problem? how expensive is this going to be? (i.e. what has to be done to correct the problem)
ok - so now that I didn't do that how do I got about resolving the problem? how expensive is this going to be? (i.e. what has to be done to correct the problem)
Shaggy
3/4 ton status
<font color="green"> Yes, you have the process right. At this point you should just set the pinion bearing preload to spec and hope for the best. </font color>
solowookie
1/2 ton status
ok shaggy - now to the important question... where in the world did you get that picturer, and what animal is that??? (I'm guessing dog)
