Shaggy
3/4 ton status
<font color="green"> Haha, it's just a small part of a bigger picture. I think the dog is a viszla, they have real pink noses. </font color>
CK5
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what should I check for when inpsecting my axle?
- Thread starter solowookie
- Start date
solowookie
1/2 ton status
OK - I can't find that torque spec. so what is the factory torque spec??? what do I do if that doesn't work?
solowookie
1/2 ton status
just talked with a guy that is really good with GM axles... he told me the sure way how to fix this, and if I have problems he'll charge me $40 to fix it.
pull the driveshaft & seal etc. pull out the pinion bearing, and the crush sleave. put in a new crush sleave, and then retorque to 250 ft/lbs.
sounds like a piece of cake.
pull the driveshaft & seal etc. pull out the pinion bearing, and the crush sleave. put in a new crush sleave, and then retorque to 250 ft/lbs.
sounds like a piece of cake.
Do a search, there was a thread a couple of weeks ago, maybe up to a month, and someone gave some torque readings, and I forgot to mark the thread as a favorite.
When I need it I know I can find it, but you could do the search now and get those numbers.
I think it was about changing yokes from 10bolt to 12bolt.
Anyway all the numbers are in the thread, the pinion drag, the nut torque specs and everything related to that, wether you replace the cruch sleeve or not, both methods are described.
When I need it I know I can find it, but you could do the search now and get those numbers.
I think it was about changing yokes from 10bolt to 12bolt.
Anyway all the numbers are in the thread, the pinion drag, the nut torque specs and everything related to that, wether you replace the cruch sleeve or not, both methods are described.
Shaggy
3/4 ton status
<font color="green"> Preload should be 6-8 inch pounds for a used 10 bolt.
He said to put in a new crush sleeve and just torque it to 250 ft-lbs? That is contrary to everything I have ever heard on how to install a crush sleeve.</font color>
He said to put in a new crush sleeve and just torque it to 250 ft-lbs? That is contrary to everything I have ever heard on how to install a crush sleeve.</font color>
solowookie
1/2 ton status
ok shaggy - you seem to know something about this... I don't have an in/lbs wrench so I'd have to get one. if torqueing it to spec's doesn't work then how would you solve this?
I don't know much about this guy, but the people I spoke to around here claim he's suppose to be really good.
I don't know much about this guy, but the people I spoke to around here claim he's suppose to be really good.
Shaggy
3/4 ton status
<font color="green"> OK, in my experience 250 lb-ft of torque won't even start to crush the sleeve, you would get it torqued down and it would still be all sloppy in there.
There's two ways you can look at this. First, I am no expert, but I have done my research and have some hands on experience. The people here on the board seem to back me up on the info I gave earlier. The other guy *might* be an expert, hard to say since I don't know his whole story. I have my own opinions on the knowledge level that most pro mechanics seem to have, but that is for another thread...
I can tell you that just torqueing the pinion nut down seems very wrong and is not even close to the procedure that is given in any of the instructions that I have from Drivetrain Direct, Randy's or any other axle parts house. I would use the procedure that I described above.
If you are going to put in a new crush sleeve, which is probably unneccessary IMHO, since I doubt you overcrushed the old one, then you need to first crush it with an insane amount of torque, generally over 300ft-lbs. Until it is crushed down to the point where the bearings can seat on the races, there will be slop in the pinion itself. ONce you get it crushed far enough that there is no slop, you need to start checking the bearing preload with the torque wrench. 6-8 in-lbs is not much, so you're going to end up really splitting some hairs to get it in that range. If there is not enough preload, tighten the nut a smidge more. If it's too tight, then you need to start over with a new crush sleeve.
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There's two ways you can look at this. First, I am no expert, but I have done my research and have some hands on experience. The people here on the board seem to back me up on the info I gave earlier. The other guy *might* be an expert, hard to say since I don't know his whole story. I have my own opinions on the knowledge level that most pro mechanics seem to have, but that is for another thread...
I can tell you that just torqueing the pinion nut down seems very wrong and is not even close to the procedure that is given in any of the instructions that I have from Drivetrain Direct, Randy's or any other axle parts house. I would use the procedure that I described above.
If you are going to put in a new crush sleeve, which is probably unneccessary IMHO, since I doubt you overcrushed the old one, then you need to first crush it with an insane amount of torque, generally over 300ft-lbs. Until it is crushed down to the point where the bearings can seat on the races, there will be slop in the pinion itself. ONce you get it crushed far enough that there is no slop, you need to start checking the bearing preload with the torque wrench. 6-8 in-lbs is not much, so you're going to end up really splitting some hairs to get it in that range. If there is not enough preload, tighten the nut a smidge more. If it's too tight, then you need to start over with a new crush sleeve.
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What everyone is forgetting here is that you are supposed to be measuring the drag only in pinion bearings. That means that you have to pull the carrier. This isn't so bad, just be sure to keep track of how everything came apart so that you can put it together exactly the same way.
I found that a good way to crush the sleeve is to put a pipe wrench on the yoke, with the handle pushing against the floor. Then use a strong socket and breaker bar on the pinion nut. Then get about 4' of thick steel pipe to put on the breaker bar. Be sure to work safe.
I found that a good way to crush the sleeve is to put a pipe wrench on the yoke, with the handle pushing against the floor. Then use a strong socket and breaker bar on the pinion nut. Then get about 4' of thick steel pipe to put on the breaker bar. Be sure to work safe.
Actually if you do the measuring before you take of the nut, you can keep it all in a measure, and then when you torque down have the same setup.
Always compare apples to apples.
I believe the complete setup will have a little more I think I recall 11-15inch lb
Always compare apples to apples.
I believe the complete setup will have a little more I think I recall 11-15inch lb
Shaggy
3/4 ton status
<font color="green"> That's true, but in a pinch you can do it with the carrier installed. A 10 bolt carrier generally has very little bearing preload so it won't affect it *that* much. Probably should aim for more like 12 in-lbs on the pinion bearings if the carrier is left in. </font color>
solowookie
1/2 ton status
I gotta get me a torque wrench I can measure that with.
I can tell ya this much I like doing stuff on my own vehicles, but if I gotta mess with that rearend much I'll save my $$$, and let this guy fix it for the $40 he quoted me. it's going to take me a few days to get everything together.
I can tell ya this much I like doing stuff on my own vehicles, but if I gotta mess with that rearend much I'll save my $$$, and let this guy fix it for the $40 he quoted me. it's going to take me a few days to get everything together.
solowookie
1/2 ton status
is that 12 in pound with or without the tires on??? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
