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What should I do for a motor?? ~PCV fixed, now what?~

Ok guys, got some ALDL questions for ya. Is it easier to build or buy a cable for it? And does anyone have a link to the program needed??? Off to do some research...TIA

EDIT: http://www.aldlcable.com/sc/details.asp?item=aldlobd1

is this what i need? is the software they say thats included what i need?

Well, i just downloaded ALDL onto my sisters laptop.
 
Just do this:

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/GMPerformanceParts/Parts/showcase_detail.jsp?engine=3

Then you can scare the pants off the little ricers.

But really, the guy on ebay fivestarengines seems to sell good stuff. He has a 383 and a 350 tbi motor up right now for 2900 and 2500. I just blew my motor so I am stuck between his or a crate engine. I have to save up a little but I guess it is an excuse to go bigger than I had. I believe I saw a crate motor on Summit for 1500 for the 210hp model. It is a jump up from the stock 185hp we had but should probably allow you to run stock chip.
 
I think everyone forgets that you still have to pay the $100+ fee for shipping a crate engine.
 
from a GM dealer? there should be no fee for shipping to a dealer. the dealer gets charged for the part, but not for shipping, as a GM truck shows up every day with parts from the parts warehouse.
 
Sounds to me like you need to focus a little. No point in shopping for motors if you don't know what, if anything is wrong with yours.

You mentioned you've got a mechanic buddy, get him or any mechanic for that matter to diagnose your motor.

Once you know what's up, go from there.

Then work on pricing out solutions. Like Baldamish said check out the machining prices, then rebuild kits based on your needs, wants, and finances.

I've been looking into it myself for a while. I was going to make a move months ago, but my motor is still running strong. I'm waiting for the inevitable, or a pile of money to fall into my lap.

Here is what I came up with. GM crate; price, professional build, and warranty and service convenience. You can't beat that combo in my mind.

However, if my mechanic buddy has the time, I will get him to rebuild the motor while I look over his shoulder. I REALLY want to learn, but I don't want to do so at the expense of an unreliable motor (doing it myself). It sounds to me like you have this option as well. I'd take it.

As for which motor. Price usually dictates, I'm going 383, unless a 400 enters the picture. If it's going to be a GM crate then either the HT383 or the Ram Jet 350 which you might be interested in (injection).
 
fireplug said:
Sounds to me like you need to focus a little. No point in shopping for motors if you don't know what, if anything is wrong with yours.

You mentioned you've got a mechanic buddy, get him or any mechanic for that matter to diagnose your motor.

Once you know what's up, go from there.

Then work on pricing out solutions. Like Baldamish said check out the machining prices, then rebuild kits based on your needs, wants, and finances.

I've been looking into it myself for a while. I was going to make a move months ago, but my motor is still running strong. I'm waiting for the inevitable, or a pile of money to fall into my lap.

Here is what I came up with. GM crate; price, professional build, and warranty and service convenience. You can't beat that combo in my mind.

However, if my mechanic buddy has the time, I will get him to rebuild the motor while I look over his shoulder. I REALLY want to learn, but I don't want to do so at the expense of an unreliable motor (doing it myself). It sounds to me like you have this option as well. I'd take it.

As for which motor. Price usually dictates, I'm going 383, unless a 400 enters the picture. If it's going to be a GM crate then either the HT383 or the Ram Jet 350 which you might be interested in (injection).
Click to expand...
Well the PO, who happens to be a mechanic, said it needed valve seals.

As far as the ALDL goes, should I just buy that cable, or make one?

Sounds to me like you need to focus a little. No point in shopping for motors if you don't know what, if anything is wrong with yours.
Click to expand...
You`re right, that is why I`m asking for help/advice/suggestions on diagnosing my motor, and I`ve been told to use ALDL, because it can tell me my compression, etc....

Is my "smoking" issue (smokes a little on start up, and in the heat its not real bad, but can be seen, and in the cold its not so bad. sometimes when i really get on it, in high rpms, i can see some smoke) possibly due to bad valve seals, worn valve guides, etc...? Or is it most likely rings?

I mean the engine doesn`t really seem that bad..It`s pretty responsive, and its got some power. Is it not logical to do a compression test on my current motor? Whats the worst that could happen, I find out its time for a rebuild? I would like to see if the motors bottom end is in good shape or not, that way if it is, i`ll have different options as far as motor work goes....

If any of you have any more suggestions, feel free to add them...
 
I guess what I'm trying to say is that a bunch of guys on the internet can give you a hundred ideas on what might be the problem over the course of a week or more or you could go to a mechanic, who will tell you for sure, in an hour.

Everything you've suggested is possible and logical but...
 
fireplug said:
I guess what I'm trying to say is that a bunch of guys on the internet can give you a hundred ideas on what might be the problem over the course of a week or more or you could go to a mechanic, who will tell you for sure, in an hour.

Everything you've suggested is possible and logical but...
Click to expand...
Would you recommend using WinALDL? Wouldnt that pretty much tell me what a mechanic would?

Is WinALDL going to tell me my compression, as someone has previously stated?
 
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WINALDL will show how the engine is running and any codes that are active.

Valve seals are not a big deal - they make the engine smoke on start up, but are easy to change. The chevy valve seals wear out quickly compared to other engine manufacturers.

Buy (or borrow) a compression tester to check the rings and valves. I picked mine up several years ago for ~$20. An hour of work or so, and you'll know if the engine is losing compression.
 
mouse said:
WINALDL will show how the engine is running and any codes that are active.

Valve seals are not a big deal - they make the engine smoke on start up, but are easy to change. The chevy valve seals wear out quickly compared to other engine manufacturers.

Buy (or borrow) a compression tester to check the rings and valves. I picked mine up several years ago for ~$20. An hour of work or so, and you'll know if the engine is losing compression.
Click to expand...
Ok, I`m going to try and get a compression test done, and hopefully a leak down test as well. If any has any advice/tricks/tips on any of this, feel free to share...
 
Well, i think i may have found my problem.

1) pulled pcv to check if air was being pushed out, well i didnt even check it:doah: , because i couldnt get over the brown milky crap on the bottom of the pcv valve:eek1: . So I`m hoping that I just got a little water in the motor when i went wheeln a week or 2 ago. I`ll change the oil asap as well as the pcv valve.

2) pulled the pcv valve off the vac line, to find out that its not even pulling any vaccum:eek1:

3) stuck a small drill bit in the hole in the TB where the line was (only thing i could find:D ) and out comes a bunch of black gunk (carbon)

So fellas, what do I do now?

Is this most likely my issue? (or one of them atleast)

I`m assuming my first plan of attack, after changing oil and filter and pcv, is it clean out the inlet for the pcv, but how??? Can it be done without pulling the throttle body?? (reason i ask is last time i did it i cracked a fuel line, then stripped TB when putting the fitting into it:eek1: , but that when i was under noob status)
 
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Ya last time I replaced my pcv valve my truck felt more responsive and better running. I always seem to getat least some oily foam form inside the baffle in the valve cover.
 
Wow, I was hoping I`d come home from work with tons of info:( :(

Come on fellas:wink1:
 
i had a mystery bump 1 time, tried everything....turned out that torque converter was loose from flexplate...so check that while you are looking.
 
i have seen the same thing before....the torque converter was loose on the bolts and it allowed the torque converter to flop as motor rotated, causing a bumping sound.
at 1st we thought a bearing was going out because the thump traveled up the crank and actually sounded like it was coming from the front of the motor.
we pulled motor to do a rebuild and discovered that the torque converter was loose with 1 bolt missing and you could see on the flexplate where the converter had been hammering on the flexplate.
 
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