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What the H E double hockey sticks is this?

GsxrMike

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I pull the axles out of my M1008 parts truck tonight and the rear brake line went through some valve that had a lever attached to it that was also attached to the axle tube. When the rear suspension moves it would move the lever on the valve? What does it do? Here is a pic of the lever attached to the rear axle. If you want a pic of the valve let me know.
Weird_Brake.jpg
 
That would be for the height sensing brake proportioning valve. Just like the name implies it adjusts the rear brake pressure to the amount of weight in the bed of the truck.
 
Thats crazy!

That would be for the height sensing brake proportioning valve. Just like the name implies it adjusts the rear brake pressure to the amount of weight in the bed of the truck.

Thats crazy! What trucks came with this?
 
Tidbit of side info...similar systems were also used on Toyotas.
 
Thats crazy! What trucks came with this?

All Toyotas too. I just take them off the axle and zip tie them up to the top of the body. More braking power is good. :D

Just an FYI, if it has a bleeder valve, than its just one more place to bleed in your system.
 
I don't think so...

All Toyotas too. I just take them off the axle and zip tie them up to the top of the body. More braking power is good.quote]

I don't think you would gain any "braking power" by zipping up the lever. It is a proportioning valve so it would take from the front to give to the back. Your "braking power" comes from the cylinder and booster.
 
I don't think you would gain any "braking power" by zipping up the lever. It is a proportioning valve so it would take from the front to give to the back. Your "braking power" comes from the cylinder and booster.


That's not true, the front and rear systems are completely seperate and don't "rob" from each other. The proportioning valve is just a regulator that limits the maximum pressure to the REAR brakes. The front brakes receive all of the pressure and are not regulated in any way. The height sensing proportioning valve simply adjusts or regulates maximum pressure to keep the rear brakes from locking up under light loads and allows higher pressure (again it's just a regulator and doesn't create pressure) when the back of the truck is loaded down.

Newer trucks don't use the height prop valve as they depend on ABS to a point to regulate brake power.


By zipping the lever in the up position you're simply allowing full brake pressure to the rear brakes, you can even adjust the height of the lever to tune the brakes to where they work the best if you rarely haul loads. Or you can ditch the lever arrangement and install an aftermarket adjustable prop valve up by the master cylinder and fine tune your rear brakes, this is a real good idea if you install rear disk brakes.
 
I had one on my F350 I owned some years ago. Never could get an answer from anyone I worked with as to what it was. Was this on all 1 ton chevy's? If so I might be looking for one to put on my TowBurb.
 
All Toyotas too. I just take them off the axle and zip tie them up to the top of the body. More braking power is good.quote]

I don't think you would gain any "braking power" by zipping up the lever. It is a proportioning valve so it would take from the front to give to the back. Your "braking power" comes from the cylinder and booster.

No, it increases pressure to the rear only. At least on a Yota it does. This is only a valve for the rear, not the front. The front of the system works off a
standard proportioning valve.
 
The height sensing proportioning valve simply adjusts or regulates maximum pressure to keep the rear brakes from locking up under light loads and allows higher pressure (again it's just a regulator and doesn't create pressure) when the back of the truck is loaded down.
You probably already know this, I just wanted to make sure somebody else doesn't get confused.

The prop valve does not regulate or limit the maximum pressure. It divides whatever pressure is on its input (MC/front combo valve) and sends a certain percentage to the output (rear brakes). Yes, the absolute maximum is reduced, but only because the pressure is reduced under all conditions. A regulator would do nothing until a certain pressure was reached, then limit the output pressure to that level as the input level continued to increase (just like the regulator on an air compressor).
 
So what happens when you bypass this rear axle proporting valve (or whatever)? I went ahead and did it when I lifted mine and everything seemed to work fine. I pulled the lever completely off. I thought I might have to go back and hook it back up if the brakes seemed off but they worked fine. So, is it really necessary?
 
Yall are a little off. And since none of you will take my word for it, here it is from Billavista himself via Pirate4x4... Bigblock was the closest, but still a little off.

"A combination valve is found in many OEM vehicles and may combine the functions of the metering valve, the proportioning valve, and a brake pressure warning-light switch."


Residual Pressure Valve

A residual pressure valve is a simple, one-way, spring-loaded valve installed either in the master cylinder, or inline between the MC and the callipers/wheel cylinders. They operate by keeping a pre-determined amount of pressure in the brake lines, even with the brakes released. The internal spring determines the amount of residual pressure kept in the brake lines – normally 2 PSI or 10 PSI. There are two distinct uses of residual pressure valves:
10 PSI: Drum brakes only. Because drum brakes don’t use callipers and are therefore not self-adjusting there are springs installed to retract the brake shoes away from the drum. A 10 PSI residual pressure valve is used in drum brakes to keep a little pressure in the lines to balance the return-spring force so that the shoes are maintained in close proximity to the drums. Without the residual pressure valve, the return springs would retract the shoes so far from the drums that excessive pedal travel would be required before the brakes are applied.
2 PSI: Disc brakes only. In many race cars and hot rods, the master cylinder is installed at a level below that of the callipers. As such, gravity will draw the fluid from the callipers, causing it to drain back into the MC. The result is a “spongy” feeling pedal and excessive pedal travel. A 2 PSI residual pressure valve is installed in the brake line between MC and calliper to maintain slight pressure in the line and prevent fluid drain back. Note: This valve should only be needed if the MC is lower than the callipers.
I have often read where people have advised the use of a residual pressure valve to cure some other problem - spongy pedal or excessive pedal travel (usually caused by insufficient volume from a too-small MC). In cases like this, it may feel as if the RPV has cured the problem, but it is only a band-aid, masking the real problem. Use an RPV only for drum brakes or MC lower than callipers. Do not use an RPV as a band-aid. Find and fix the real problem!
When converting from drums to discs, you will need to remove any RPV in the rear circuit.


Metering Valve

Because of the return springs present, drum brakes take more movement (pressure and volume) to initially apply than disc brakes whose self-adjusting callipers keep the pads almost or lightly touching the rotors. As such, in disc/drum brakes, a metering valve is used to prevent application of the front disc brakes below a pre-set pressure in the hydraulic system – usually about 75-150 psi – to allow the rear drum brakes to catch up. This allows the front and rear brakes in a disc/drum setup to work more evenly. A metering valve is also known as a “hold-off” valve.
When converting from drums to discs, you will need to remove any metering valve in the circuit.


Proportioning Valve

As a car brakes, weight is transferred from the rear to the front (ahh – Newton and his Law of Inertia again!). Because braking force should be applied to each wheel in proportion to the weight on it (more weight - more braking force should be applied), there is a requirement to “balance” the braking forces to front and rear wheels. Failure to do so will result in premature lock-up of lightly loaded rear brakes and resulting skid and loss of control. In fact, in hard braking the front brakes perform up to 85% of the braking! In properly balanced brakes, neither the front nor rear breaks will lock up first – braking force is “proportioned” so that they lock up together.
A proportioning valve is installed inline between the master cylinder and the rear brakes (be they disc or drum) in order to reduce the pressure increase to the rear as the brakes are applied. The pressure to the rear is not prevented from increasing – the valve just ensures that, after a certain point (the “changeover pressure”) it rises at a lower rate than it does to the front brakes. As the brakes are applied, full pressure is allowed to the rear up to a certain point. Beyond that point, the pressure to the rear is reduced preventing rear brake lock up. Most stock proportioning valves are preset by the OEM and are neither adjustable nor serviceable – they are of use only on the original vehicle for which they were designed. Aftermarket adjustable proportioning valves are available and are a must for any custom, high-performance brake system. Stock proportioning valves are of little use in modified vehicles – whether it’s the brake system or simply the weight and balance (incl. suspension height) that have been modified.


Pressure Limiting Valve

Used on some disc/drum vehicles, a pressure limiting valve performs a similar function to a proportioning valve except that instead of reducing the rate at which pressure to the rear increases, it simply limits the maximum pressure available to the rear. That means, unlike with a proportioning valve, once you achieve that maximum pressure, no matter how hard you press the brake pedal, no more rear braking is possible. Inflexible, non-adjustable, and only marginally useful on very nose-heavy vehicles, they generally suck and should be avoided.
 
So what happens when you bypass this rear axle proporting valve (or whatever)? I went ahead and did it when I lifted mine and everything seemed to work fine. I pulled the lever completely off. I thought I might have to go back and hook it back up if the brakes seemed off but they worked fine. So, is it really necessary?

It depends on where you left the valve positioned when the arm was disconnected. On mine, it makes a noticeable difference on how easy it is to lock the rear brakes. Just taking it off doesn't "increase braking power", it increases rear power only. Since the fronts do most of the work, if you increase the rear to the point that they are locking early, you won't be able to get as much out of the front. It's hard to apply more brakes when the rear is already sliding. Dont remove it without knowing the effects it is having. It is especially critical on a vehicle with extra large rear brakes like a cucv.
 
Yall are a little off... Bigblock was the closest, but still a little off.
Not really.
"Proportioning Valve
The pressure to the rear is not prevented from increasing – the valve just ensures that, after a certain point (the “changeover pressure”) it rises at a lower rate than it does to the front brakes. As the brakes are applied, full pressure is allowed to the rear up to a certain point. Beyond that point, the pressure to the rear is reduced preventing rear brake lock up.
The changeover point is not a hard and fast rule. Some aftermarket prop valves work differently than the prop function in a stock combo valve. To some degree, this is just to complement the "hold-off" function so that front braking is not delayed more under light loads. And your source just told us to remove the "hold-off" feature!
 
Not really.
The changeover point is not a hard and fast rule. Some aftermarket prop valves work differently than the prop function in a stock combo valve. To some degree, this is just to complement the "hold-off" function so that front braking is not delayed more under light loads. And your source just told us to remove the "hold-off" feature!

What I was refering to was this...

bigblock72 said:
The proportioning valve is just a regulator that limits the maximum pressure to the REAR brakes.

...thats a pressure limiting valve, not a proportioning valve. When people misuse terms, everyone gets confused.


And as far as removing the "hold-off" valve or metering valve its only needed with disk/drums due to the slow rate drums ingage. And thats exactly what my source says; its useless in a disk/disk setup and should be removed.
 
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