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What the H E double hockey sticks is this?

this thread sucks..


you guys could add any othe these to spice it up..


"your an iddiot"

"stfu"

get you comments to your self a$$ hole if you dont know what your talking about"


it could make it more fun if we would all stop acting like adults

this is the internet for christ sake! :p:
 
Yeah, that would be more productive. We could post two rows of flipoff smileys, too.

What can I say? I've got no hate for anybody in this thread. I respect good discussion.
 
It depends on where you left the valve positioned when the arm was disconnected. On mine, it makes a noticeable difference on how easy it is to lock the rear brakes. Just taking it off doesn't "increase braking power", it increases rear power only. Since the fronts do most of the work, if you increase the rear to the point that they are locking early, you won't be able to get as much out of the front. It's hard to apply more brakes when the rear is already sliding. Dont remove it without knowing the effects it is having. It is especially critical on a vehicle with extra large rear brakes like a cucv.

Thanks for the info. I had to replace the rear hard brakeline and flex line anyways so I bypassed the valve altogether. I would think that would give it full line pressure all the time. Never had an issue with the rear brakes locking up. Oddly enough I did have a problem with that on the other CUCV that had the valve hooked up. That turned out to be a faulty wheel cylinder but that is another story.


this thread sucks..


you guys could add any othe these to spice it up..


"your an iddiot"

"stfu"

get you comments to your self a$$ hole if you dont know what your talking about"


it could make it more fun if we would all stop acting like adults

this is the internet for christ sake! :p:

I have always thought that CK5 is a good site because people can banter with each other in a good humor sort of way. Things on the internet may come off one way when you really meant it in another. In general, it seems like CK5ers are aware of this and are here for the comradery, to expand their knowledge, and connect with like minded individuals. I could be way off though, this is the internet. :whistle:
 
You know...I think this is missing from my truck. Never looked for it but I don't remember it being there. The place I got my truck from had to replace the rear axle so I bet they left it off.
 
When I swapped one tons under the Jimmy, I had FULL braking force going to the rear (no weight sensative proportioning valve under a K5).

That wasn't really the best set up. Heavy and/or sudden braking would induce rear wheel lock-up; not the best way to stop fast. People sure do notice a big K5 with screetching 35" tires. Eventually I figured I was one snow covered road from a multiple pirouette :rolleyes:

I switched to rear disc, new bigger master, ditched to stock combination valve, and added an adjustable proportioning valve. I can haul 38x15 down from speed with "breaking" a sweat now :D

YMMV
 
When I swapped one tons under the Jimmy, I had FULL braking force going to the rear (no weight sensative proportioning valve under a K5).

That wasn't really the best set up. Heavy and/or sudden braking would induce rear wheel lock-up; not the best way to stop fast. People sure do notice a big K5 with screetching 35" tires. Eventually I figured I was one snow covered road from a multiple pirouette :rolleyes:

I switched to rear disc, new bigger master, ditched to stock combination valve, and added an adjustable proportioning valve. I can haul 38x15 down from speed with "breaking" a sweat now :D

YMMV

Do you know what mater cylinder you used?
 
I'm with Shawn... boooo!!!! You're all idiots, it's actually a difibulator valve that allows gear oil to flow into your rear drums, this increases braking power 10 fold and coats the brake shoes with a nice lubricating film to keep them from wearing down so quickly!!!! Dumbasses!!!:mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
Thanks for the info. I had to replace the rear hard brakeline and flex line anyways so I bypassed the valve altogether. I would think that would give it full line pressure all the time. Never had an issue with the rear brakes locking up. Oddly enough I did have a problem with that on the other CUCV that had the valve hooked up. That turned out to be a faulty wheel cylinder but that is another story.

I should have added that the rear lockup really only was a problem on the street in the rain in an emergency situation, just the time you really need all the brakes you have!! I learned my lesson without hitting anything. I have since swapped the cucv axles into my 72 and swapped the valve also. The issue is that the one ton axles have huge rear brakes that are actually too big for an unloaded truck. The only way to have optimum performance is for them to be adjustable, the factory adjusting system is automatic and reliable, if at all possible leave it functioning. If you have to unhook the link, leave the valve installed, and try some panic stops to set the valve where you stop the best.
 
I should have added that the rear lockup really only was a problem on the street in the rain in an emergency situation, just the time you really need all the brakes you have!! I learned my lesson without hitting anything. I have since swapped the cucv axles into my 72 and swapped the valve also. The issue is that the one ton axles have huge rear brakes that are actually too big for an unloaded truck. The only way to have optimum performance is for them to be adjustable, the factory adjusting system is automatic and reliable, if at all possible leave it functioning. If you have to unhook the link, leave the valve installed, and try some panic stops to set the valve where you stop the best.

The extra diameter of 36" tires on the truck may have offset the likelihood of it locking up. I was on snow covered roads when I initially tested it out. Good advice all the same. Thanks.
 
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