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What the heck...................

The failures you are seeing are usually caused by either the u-joints binding for the slip not extending. You definitely have the setup for either of these potential issues with the Revolver shackes and the square tube shaft.
 
The shaft slids easily but I do think at full droop the ujoint at the t-case is binding, That's the one I keep tearing the ears off the shaft. Looking at changing both to 1410's well atleast the top, the pinion side is fine. Going to go with Tom Woods 1410 super flex. I've got the 1310 super flex now but don't think it's quiet enough... I'd like to keep my flex as much as I can. Was looking at Jesse's truck on high angle and his angle is WAAAAYYYY worse than mine at ride height and he as the kick back revolver type shackles on his as well.... Going to try that and see how it goes... Thanks for info though... Have definately been looking hard into that.. Got CAOS's Fall For All at Gray Rock coming up the 23-25 of this month and I've got to get it up and going..
 
That shackle in the front is a no no, yes it may be a ramp champ but are you building a wheeler or a flex out toy? I would ditch them.

Have you looked at Jesse's build on Highangle? He has pretty much the same thing on his and his pinion angle is way worse than mine at normal ride height..... Going to 1410 super flexs and keep the shackles if I can... Definately helps when others are carrying their tires and teeter totering and mine are on the ground.... Going to try them and see how that goes then may just have to pull em off...:D
 
That is a pretty sweet set up. Are you running a hanger bearing? or what some people call a carrier bearing? I don't think my front shaft is much longer than your top shaft though.... Could you take some more close ups of yours.. But getting ready to change everything to 1410's to hopefully fix the problem... But would still like to see some of your pics though...
 
My vote is that your flexing and then you revolvers are at full drop and you get on it and the spring flexes which turns your pumpkin down and binds your u-joint and it breaks
 
That is a pretty sweet set up. Are you running a hanger bearing? or what some people call a carrier bearing? I don't think my front shaft is much longer than your top shaft though.... Could you take some more close ups of yours.. But getting ready to change everything to 1410's to hopefully fix the problem... But would still like to see some of your pics though...
Yes there is a carrier bearing on top of the crossmember.
 
Man, all you folks worried about drive-line angles. There was a swamp buggy that I saw once, more years ago than I care to think about, that had that problem solved.

The front and rear diffs were turned so they faced straight up. There was a shaft that came out of the diff and went up to some kind of a gearbox on the frame.
We're talking about 4 or 5 feet.
Then there was another shaft that came straight out of the transfer case and drove that right angle gearbox.
Talk about easy drive-line angles, I think that one used LoveJoy couplings instead of U-joints since it was a straight shot.

The shafts that went from the right angle gearbox to the diffs had a LOT of slip joint range, but the U-joints did not see much angle.

I once saw a picture of it sitting in water up just under the doors. It was parked next to a BIG boat and folks were getting off the boat and getting into the truck. The boat had plenty of water to navigate in.
It seems to me that the truck could drive in 5 or 6 feet of water and not get any in the cab.
Off-road only of course.

I wish I remembered more about some of the things he did to make it work, no idea what the heck kind of steering setup he had, that kind of thing. But, I think I was about 15 years old, and was WAY more interested in the hot chick in the bikini that was helping show the truck.

J..
 
Man, all you folks worried about drive-line angles. There was a swamp buggy that I saw once, more years ago than I care to think about, that had that problem solved.

The front and rear diffs were turned so they faced straight up. There was a shaft that came out of the diff and went up to some kind of a gearbox on the frame.
We're talking about 4 or 5 feet.
Then there was another shaft that came straight out of the transfer case and drove that right angle gearbox.
Talk about easy drive-line angles, I think that one used LoveJoy couplings instead of U-joints since it was a straight shot.

The shafts that went from the right angle gearbox to the diffs had a LOT of slip joint range, but the U-joints did not see much angle.

I once saw a picture of it sitting in water up just under the doors. It was parked next to a BIG boat and folks were getting off the boat and getting into the truck. The boat had plenty of water to navigate in.
It seems to me that the truck could drive in 5 or 6 feet of water and not get any in the cab.
Off-road only of course.

I wish I remembered more about some of the things he did to make it work, no idea what the heck kind of steering setup he had, that kind of thing. But, I think I was about 15 years old, and was WAY more interested in the hot chick in the bikini that was helping show the truck.

J..


Drop transfer cases, low chain drives or others cause break over angle issues, fine for mud but for a multi use/trail machine.. I would see it as a hinder. There are a few local mud trucks running such set ups and I wouldn't want to be on any trail with their set up!

I know it runs against the pack or what's the trend here but crazy front and rear leaf suspensions are not my thing. Front 56's open huge cans of worms as do rear 63's. You soon are spending time building your own packs, dropping gas tanks, rear cv, shackle angle hell, axle wrap hell, breaking main leafs, shims, building a trac bar you wont bind, hang up on or break, becoming more fond of rivets than a ship yard worker etc..

I liked leafs because they were simple for crying out loud! Lockers front and rear, cross over with hydro assist, decent gearing and a rear suspension that works will take you most places a full size will fit.

I loved the way some simple 6 inch bds springs in the front rode, a shackle flip with some 56 inch springs in the rear. I had a springer/ak57 kit on my old 86 and it caused issues with 14 bolt yokes/straps. I could have built a track bar but if I wanted to but the whole point of the blazer was to be simple and reliable! I swapped back to 56 inch rears and never had to worry again.



No way I would run a shackle up front due to the inherent loading and unloading characteristics, binding and front axle wrap. Im tired of over complicated what works and spending my life in the garage. Im ready to start wheeling again rather than realizing just how much use i get out of my jack stands. Some of the best fun I ever had was in my old 75 when I first got it, just half tons on 33's.. then I spent the next 3 years building it into a trail machine. If i could do it over I would have spend those 3 years actually wheeling!


Yes its against the grain.
 
I agree with Shawn, except for the 56's and 63 part cuz thats what I run, but, find some wood, have yet to break them.
 
( No way I would run a shackle up front due to the inherent loading and unloading characteristics, binding and front axle wrap. Im tired of over complicated what works and spending my life in the garage )

So what you are saying is that you don't run a shackle at all????? I tend to beg the differ... I bet you do.. Might want to take a peek under your rig again:haha:

OR.......Maybe ya'll have my entire set up confused.... If you are thinking that I'm running a revolver type shackle in the VERY front of the leaf, NO, It is at the rear of the front leaf.... Either way you HAVE to run a shackle at atleast one end....:wink1:
 
He is saying not to run a revolver shackle


Yup,

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