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What the #$&*@ ?

makovai

makovai

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Jun 6, 2006
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oregon city
I spent all winter doing the body work and putting new guts in this door. Finally got a sunny day yesturday, mounted the door and @#$^%$^
The lower corner is perfect. But up where i circled it it is off by a mile.

My body mounts are shot. Could this be the issue? The old door fit perfect altough it was a ratty piece of junk. I'm pretty frustrated. I pulled half the truck apart so i could get to the hinge mount for adjustment just to find out i cant get the door square.

Any suggestions?

door.jpg



door2.jpg
 
I wanna know too. I pulled the body lift out of mine. Got the a-pillar, b-pillar, and rocker gaps spot on for the driver side. But my windshield gap is similar to yours on both driver side and passenger side. Can the angle of the windshield frame be "adjusted" by a degree or two?

Oh yeah...neither of my doors are original.
 
Yes your body mounts and shims are the problem. You need to replace your body mount bushings first and then shim accordingly. Yes it is a pain in the ass!!

How are your inner/outer rocker panels and rocker boxes? If those are in poor shape there is not much else holding the cowl.
 
PO put new poly body mounts in mine and I shimmed it to get the a-pillar, b-pilar, rocker lines square. Should I have started with the gap at the windshield frame first?
 
I am probably not the right guy to answer but I'll try. It will bump the thread up so the pros can correct me! You should get an assembly manual as it shows where to shim.

With the door hung and adjusted so it is square and has an acceptable gap with the B pillar (quarter/bedside) and adjusted to match the body lines to same (in and out adjustment) and the rocker (up and down) you then shim the body mounts in the footwell or either of the next two to the rear of that one as necessary. You will have to torque the bolts each time and see if it is shimmed enough or not and adjust again as necessary.

IMHO if the bedside and rocker lines are good you would shim the middle (the one towards the rear from the footwell) and by torqueing the bolt in the footwell it should pull the windshield/cowl forward.

I put all new rubber bushings in mine and my bodyman did the shimming and he said it was a pain in the ass. The bolts in a blazer are welded to the floor from the factory. I used a commercial (foredom) style dremel and ground the welds to replace the rubber mounts. After shimming my body guy rewelded my bolts back in.
 
OK. Based on my recently aquired Factory Assembly Manual, and if I'm picturing this right in my head, I need pull a couple of the 1/8" shims out of body mount #1 to open up that gap at the top of the windshield frame. Then, readjust the fender itself to get the door to fender gap right. Anyone agree?
 
hmmm, maybe i'll wait a bit and see how AJ's goes b4 i attempt this. I do have a new poly body mount kit ready to install, but now im hearing we are going to get rain until mid august...:doah:...a long time anyway.
 
The assembly manual speaks to all the gaps, but doesn't really speak to shim here to open this gap, shim here to close this one. I also couldn't find where it talks about the windshield frame gap. Mind you, I've only had the manual since Friday. But since, mount #1 (the one in the toeboard) is in front of the windshield, lowering it (taking shims out) should pull the windshield forward and open up the gap at the top. I think that was a run-on sentance. Oh well... I won't be able to get to it until next weekend. But, I'll post as soon as I do with before and after pics.
 
my top has never fit right since i got the rig. I was looking at it and if i pull the top of the window frame forward it will fix the fit on my top as well as my door alignment.......this is very cool.
 
I'm very fortunate to have a '72 that is still perfect in this respect and used it to get my '70 right.The '70 was in bad shape-and is again because I have twisted the living daylights out of it!
What I did was measure the distance between the A and B pillars in my door opening at the top and then used this measurement and a hi-lift to spread the opening on the '70 back out.At the top.This pushed the windshield frame back into position.Then I welded my new rocker box in and installed the new body mounts.Shaved the forward-most mount about 3/16.Then it was easy to get the door to line back up.just fiddled with the hinges for a bit.i should have taken pics but wasn't into documenting much at the time.And since then I have started to rebuild the trail rig with a front and rear taper.Maybe this helps.-Allen
 
Same but Different...

Alright so I just did a motor swap and got the truck back on the road and I know I'm gonna replace all the body mounts and put in a 1" lift kit from ORD and so when I pulled the front clip off I admit I never put the front mounts back on... I feel shamed... but look. My door is sagging the other way because I don't have the front mounts on and it's pulling the windshield forward as I run the truck back and forth to work for the last week or so.

The door fit was changing and I noticed a new mark on the latch... I know it stupid I didn't do it right the first time but, it's kinda cool that now I know why. Yes that realy is the drivers seat in the back ground.

P1030369.JPG

P1030367.JPG
 
:yikes: Time for a new roll of duct tape for that seat!
 
When you say "the lower corner is perfect" do you mean all the way across the door jamb and all the way up the vertical gap has a uniform gap?

That wouldn't be good.

If the door is sitting out-of-square with a nice square door opening, the gaps should be have a taper in them somewhere else. Having a tight fit in the a-pillar area seems to imply that the entire cowl is layed-back. ChefBear makes a good point too....without the front fenders in place you won't have the leverage to pull the cowl forward. That might be your issue at this point.

Here is the image from the Factory Manual in case you haven't already seen it.

DSC00781a.jpg



I have to agree with previous sentiments though....you're wasting your time chasing gaps if you haven't fixed all the structural rust in the body mount areas, or if your existing body mounts are wasted.

Get that stuff replaced and in good condition, and then take a fresh look at how things are lining up....


:usaflag:
 
good points. My door is off a little at the bottom allowing me some adjustmet with the body mounts. I think i can find a compromise where it will look straight when im done. My rig has no rust in it so im good there, but my mounts are shot. I have a new set of poly mounts so they will be going in soon (if it ever quit raining). I heard we are posed to get a dry weekend in august :haha:
 
x2 on the fender needing to be installed. I just went through the same thing.

In my case I added some shims between the hardtop and the windshield frame to open up the gap a bit extra and then bolted down the fender to hold it in place. Then I removed the shims and it sagged a bit back down and is pretty close now.
 
I think I have multiple alignment issues. The rear quarter to door was pretty square when I started this morning. But the crease that runs the length of the body (about 1/4 up from the bottom) doesn't line up between the fender, door, and quarter. I started pulling the front clip off to adjust the door angle itself, but, I got stuck at the wiper arms cuz I don't have the right tool to take them off. Once I get the fenders and cowl off, I'll align the doors and and start shimming again.
 
The wipers should just pop right off with a big flathead screwdriver. You have to just sorta push against the spot where the wiper blade meets the pivot point and then pull it off.
 
bp71k5 said:
The wipers should just pop right off with a big flathead screwdriver. You have to just sorta push against the spot where the wiper blade meets the pivot point and then pull it off.
Click to expand...

i just took my wipers off last weekend. theres a little clip that you use a flat screwdriver on and push down twords the window. It will pop out and fall into the valance cover. :D
 
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