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What to buy?

tyler__820

1/2 ton status
Joined
Aug 1, 2008
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440
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Location
St. Helens Oregon
So just a couple months ago i got ahold of some 42 tsl's to replace my worn out 39.5s, now i feel it wont really "crawl" as well as it did before, i have a dana 60 and 14 bolt combo, i wanna put a grizzly locker in the rear and a lock rite up front, with a nice little bonus coming up my question is should i build a 203/205 doubler and run the 4.10 gears i have and buy the lockers for said gears or buy the gears (say 4.88's) and lockers?
 
What Tranny do you have?

If you have a 700r. I would run the 4.88s. Im running 33s and 4:10s w/ 700r and its the perfect combo for a DD. Any biggie tire and I would go up to 4:55s or 4:88s.

With your tires, I would go with 4:88s atleast even if you have a T350/T400 tranny. If you have a 700r. You might be able to dip into even lower in gearing.
 
4.10's to 4.88's = 19% deeper

Adding a 203 gearbox in there = 102% deeper

Changing the transfer case gearing is MUCH more effective than going to deeper axle gears, plus you can keep higher gears for the highway (which you may or may not like with 4.10's and 42's).
 
I have the sm 465 tyranny so its nice to have that low first gear, my rig isn't a trailer queen so I like to drive it to the trail and back, that's why I like the 4.10s cus I can cruise at 65 easily, but the downside is, I know the crawl speed in 4 lo and granny gear is gonna suck!
 
Thanks for the info Chris. How much do you think it would run me to build the 203/205. Also I will prolly be calling ORD Friday or Saturday to buy the frame brace kit because my ORD crossover is tearing my frame apart, go figure. ( stupid wimpy 1/2 ton frame!)
 
well the 4.10 to 4.88 is a little jump. if me i would just go to 5.13 and be done.

here is the step by step of a 203/205 reman and ord 203/205 kit install. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253000

to keep the cost down i found the parts local cheep and saved them for a few years till i was ready.

and play with this for a bit to see the diffrences in gears of tcase add on kits will make for crawling. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

best part side by side compare with 2 diffrent driveline combos.
 
No question go for the doubler. Most of the damage and stupid things that broke on my truck were because of 2 reasons.

One I couldn't steer, that's mostly fixed

Two because I couldn't crawl. That's totally fixed, I have 4.56 and 42s with a doubler and an auto. Its a great combo if you ask me
 
Ok so the general population is saying screw gears, buy lockers for the 4.10s and save up for ze doubler? does that prettymuch sum it up?
 
+more for screw gears.


I crawl tolerable with 42s and 4.10s on an auto.

The sm465 and that setup cant be that bad, seeing as it is better than what i got.

If i ever did gears i wouldnt go anything other than a 5.38
 
Ya i have no idea how it will feel, i havnt wheeled it yet on the 42's and the dana 60, but i got the damn itch, and if all goes well ill be going to browns camp mid julyif anyone is interested....or close enough. The thing that has my brain fried is doi want to buy the lockers for the 4.10s? because i know if one day i decide to go say 4.88 or whatever i will have to buy new damn lockers.
 
lockright for dana 60 fits in open diff. so can be swaped over and or resold real easy. and lots of guys run then in there 60 fronts with 38-40-44 tirs for years no problems.

and stupid easy install also.

rear if open diff now detroit would be fast basic install. it also replaces the spiders in the open diff of a 14ff rear. and is same for both carrier splits.
 
So your saying if i got the lock right and detroit for the front and rear for my 4.10 gears, if i decid to go to 4.88s later it would be as easyasjust swappingthem in with the gears?
 
swap to thick cut gears in rear yes.

new or good used open carrier for front 60 as no thick gears. or if you wanted ring gear spacer. not as comon but thay work.

and better make sure you got open diff first in the rear . as there was open or gov-loc or factory detroit in m-series trucks.

here is info thread and pics for rear. just click pic links for pictures. its a old thread. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151608
 
I ran a 465/205 with 4.56's and 37's for a while and it was good, not great but I got by. When I went to 42's, forget about that. In the mud maybe, rocks, you'll need better t-case gearing one way or another.

I built a 241/205 doubler which works great (we may have a kit for that real soon :whistle: )

The ideal situation is to gear your axles for highway driving and give yourself transfer case gearing for technical four wheeling. Options are the key, spanning from super low for crawling to high gears for low RPM's on the highway and the only way to get that is more gears in the transmission (which isn't much of an option) or better transfer case gearing options.
 
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