Craig Artzner said:
LOL...Did you walk??
Looks good.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
What would happen if I used wheel spraypaint on my grille?
- Thread starter Craig Artzner
- Start date
LOL...Did you walk??
Looks good.
I have the same issue with an original grill and the Gold bowtie has faded....but I was looking at the original images of a 1974 and it did not have the black band around it. I don't know what year that NOS grill is but the blazer in Jaws does not have the black band...it is chrome...
The bowtie on that Blazer does have the black band around it. It's just the quality of the picture that's throwing you off. They never made it any other way.
I cannot believe that somebody out there somewhere has the know-how to make the 73~74 emblem...
better yet, I bet there is a warehouse somewhere in Michigan with several hundred of them sitting in a corner....
Could one be fabricated out of foil or thin sheet metal...
better yet, I bet there is a warehouse somewhere in Michigan with several hundred of them sitting in a corner....
Could one be fabricated out of foil or thin sheet metal...
they pop up every so often on eBay if you keep your eyes open (entire grille, that is). The yellow bowtie on my grille faded out as well. I just masked it off and put a very light coat of gold krylon on it to liven it up a bit.
Bought this grille at a local swap meet for $10. Cleaned it up and painted it (with the same paint I had leftover from the grille that started this thread). This one's missing the aluminum bowtie insert, but it's clean and not broken or chipped. I'll probably just hang it on my garage wall for now.
Yep, just in case of a wreck or something....if I weren't so bent on keeping it stock I would just get a 1975 grill....but I am still working on trying to get an emblem made.
Also I won one on ebay that has a lot of color on it...but still a little faded...I will post pic in a little
I even thought about using a jigsaw and some of this copper sheet metal to cut out a bow:
http://store.electrical-insulators-and-copper-ground-bars.com/hammered-copper-sheet-new-jersey.html
http://store.electrical-insulators-and-copper-ground-bars.com/hammered-copper-sheet-new-jersey.html
I just spray painted mine and it didn't turn out as good as yours....I washed it and used some detergent on it, but there are two spots where the paint kind of "floated" instead of gripping down on the plastic...it didn't run, but the paint doesn't look right on those spots.....I guess I will have to sand it down and reshoot those areas. 
Crap! I did a crap job on my grill....the paint looks like refrigerator goose bumps...
I sanded a little area and it caked up like pencil eraser shavings....
I kept sanding...did you know that those grills look shiny like chrome underneath the original color?
Anyway, can you sandblast a grill?
I sanded a little area and it caked up like pencil eraser shavings....
I kept sanding...did you know that those grills look shiny like chrome underneath the original color?
Anyway, can you sandblast a grill?
that sucks, I've painted quite a few grilles in my day and none have done what you described. maybe someone tried to wax the grille at some point. all I've ever had to do to mine is clean them with soap and water, mask off, and spray away.
I don't think a plastic grille can be sandblasted, that would destroy it. you'll have to sand it delicately by hand.
I don't think a plastic grille can be sandblasted, that would destroy it. you'll have to sand it delicately by hand.
I'll reply here for ya Brody instead of the PM....
first, I would say it sounds like heavy orange peel from the term "goosebumps"...
orange peel can be caused by a variety of things, and combo's of said things..... usually it is caused by thick paint and poor atomization... dry spray can cause it too... a few other more technical things can do it too that i wont get into, cuz i'm not even certain if it's the actual issue...
I'm really shooting in the dark here without some closeup pics of the finish, nor knowing what you sprayed.... I assume it was some sort of rattlecan... enamel, lacquer, i have no idea..
generally the most common issue you'd have would be fisheyeing.... where the paint "walks away" from contaminated areas.. usually these show up as small bullseye type areas.. if the surface has a larger contaminated area, the paint cah actually "sheet" in that area...
pieces like a grill, i'll generally prep them by scrubbing them down with warm soapy water and a scuff pad.. then prior to painting, damp towel/dry towel them with paper towels and denatured alcohol...
the scuffing part is pretty important as it gives the paint a uniform surface to etch to... painting over smooth, shiney surfaces can lead to goofy results.. I usually use red 3M scuff pads, but brillo works in a pinch...
and to answer your sandblasting question.. I'm gonna tell you no... technically it can be done, and i have media blasted plastic in the past, but ya really need to know what to look for when doing it and what media to use.... glassbeading, plastic media, walnuts and sodablasting will give the safest, best results.. standard 0 grit sandblasting would be sketchy and ruin it in a heartbeat without a deft touch... a blast cabinet would be best...
your safest bet would be to let it dry thoroughly then wetsand it with some 220 to 320.. drysanding is not a very good option in such a case.... i can't emphasize enough how important wetsanding is in sooooooo many situations of painting, etc... the only "dry" sandpaper i keep in the house are for my machines, DA, longboard, etc.... ALL the 8" x 11" i use is wetsand...
if the finish is fresh, depending on the paint, you could chemically remove, but obviously this risks melting the plastic if not careful... test spot for that would be in order..
take some closeup pics...
first, I would say it sounds like heavy orange peel from the term "goosebumps"...
orange peel can be caused by a variety of things, and combo's of said things..... usually it is caused by thick paint and poor atomization... dry spray can cause it too... a few other more technical things can do it too that i wont get into, cuz i'm not even certain if it's the actual issue...
I'm really shooting in the dark here without some closeup pics of the finish, nor knowing what you sprayed.... I assume it was some sort of rattlecan... enamel, lacquer, i have no idea..
generally the most common issue you'd have would be fisheyeing.... where the paint "walks away" from contaminated areas.. usually these show up as small bullseye type areas.. if the surface has a larger contaminated area, the paint cah actually "sheet" in that area...
pieces like a grill, i'll generally prep them by scrubbing them down with warm soapy water and a scuff pad.. then prior to painting, damp towel/dry towel them with paper towels and denatured alcohol...
the scuffing part is pretty important as it gives the paint a uniform surface to etch to... painting over smooth, shiney surfaces can lead to goofy results.. I usually use red 3M scuff pads, but brillo works in a pinch...
and to answer your sandblasting question.. I'm gonna tell you no... technically it can be done, and i have media blasted plastic in the past, but ya really need to know what to look for when doing it and what media to use.... glassbeading, plastic media, walnuts and sodablasting will give the safest, best results.. standard 0 grit sandblasting would be sketchy and ruin it in a heartbeat without a deft touch... a blast cabinet would be best...
your safest bet would be to let it dry thoroughly then wetsand it with some 220 to 320.. drysanding is not a very good option in such a case.... i can't emphasize enough how important wetsanding is in sooooooo many situations of painting, etc... the only "dry" sandpaper i keep in the house are for my machines, DA, longboard, etc.... ALL the 8" x 11" i use is wetsand...
if the finish is fresh, depending on the paint, you could chemically remove, but obviously this risks melting the plastic if not careful... test spot for that would be in order..
take some closeup pics...
It doesn't look that bad from a distance...but close up..
You can see the spots or "orange peel in the paint and on the side area you can see where I sanded it down to the "chrome"...the paint just doesn't stick the same way to that area...
I used the VHT GM Rally Wheel Argent Silver in an aerosol can..and yes, I know the grill is upside down
You can see the spots or "orange peel in the paint and on the side area you can see where I sanded it down to the "chrome"...the paint just doesn't stick the same way to that area...
I used the VHT GM Rally Wheel Argent Silver in an aerosol can..and yes, I know the grill is upside down
how did you apply that? meaning how many coats, how heavy and wait time between coats....
in that second pic, the metallics look very mottled..
in that second pic, the metallics look very mottled..
I applied it in two coats waiting an hour between...I was trying to be careful not to cause any runs...the paint did that funny shape immediately upon spraying it...when the paint first hit it, it gathered into those orange peel eyes....I thought that it flatten out as it dryed...
I sprayed it outside in the evening....it was close to 90 degrees...
I sprayed it outside in the evening....it was close to 90 degrees...
it's definitely a contamination issue then.... explain how you prepped it, what kinda soap?
I used plain dishwashing liquid and hot water and one of those scotch dish scrubbing pads that is half sponge and green scuffing pad...I wonder if there is something in those pads?
it wasn't the sponge.... possibly the soap... rinsed it thoroughly?
Yeah...I washed it and let it dry overnight, then masked it and painted it the next night....I just looked at the dish detergent...it is Ajax Super Degreasing dish detergent...no lotion or aloe or anything.
Maybe the paint was old?
Maybe the paint was old?
nah, if it sprays, it's good... how did it spray? ya really gotta be careful with some rattlecan brands, especially a metallic, they need to be shaken VERY well... the metallics mottling up like that is an indicator it wasn't mixed well or atomizing correctly..... also if you get a real wet coat sometimes metallics will do that...
