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Whatever you're doing,it's more fun than this

Did it last weekend . I got a 5ft long piece of 7/8" allen stock and bent the end, only paid $4 for it. Still had to use heat on it. One side had rust pits in it and a crack too, I might have done that to it taking it off. Went ahead and did the other side too while it was down that far.
 
pvfjr said:
This lug nut and my 3/4" drive breaker bar and socket with a 6 ft pipe made it pretty easy. No $20 special tools for me.

DSC00775.sized.jpg

smart;)
 
thanks, but there were many dumb things that arose before we came to that conclusion. :doah: Like welding other 7/8" nuts jammed together on a bolt. The nuts held, but we snapped off a few bolts pretty easily.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone.Gotterdun without too much trouble at all.Used a double-long lugnut off my rear end.?That didn't sound right.! Couldn't figure out how to hold the housing so I ended up putting a 2 foot long piece of pipe on the breaker bar,putting the hook end of a short come-a-long into the end of that,and the other end into the other end of the housing and then just cranked it till she got tight and popped.I suppose I could maybe have used a hi-lift as well.Pretty cool,huh!? Tomorrow I'll drop everything off to be blasted and then get a coat of Ospho on it,then primer and paint.So much more fun putting things back together.Especially with the ORD highsteer and a brand new,tight gearbox.WhooHoo!!!:D
 
if you have your parts blasted,Ospho won't work will it. i have some of it and it does nothing to clean metal, it has to have iron oxide to make the chemical reaction happen. stuff thats covered with surface rust it works great, turns rust into like plasticoat,but it has to have the rust to work according to the instructions you supossed to only remove the scaly rust and leave the surface rust so it can make the reaction hapen.

i have put it on a part that was clean metal once ,the part had some water droplets on it and had ran down its side and it had rusted in that pattern and it was pokadoted when i put the ospho on were it was clean metal was still just clean metal,so i read the instructions which said it needed the rust to work,
 
Hmmm..looking at the container right now.Ospho is a rust-inhibiting coating.It says-For new ferrous metals:remove dirt,grease or oil,apply Ospho,let dry overnight,then paint.So obviously it is for use on non-rusted materials as well. I have used this before on blasted and wire-wheeled parts. I think you are mistaking the part turning black or purple where the Ospho contacts iron oxide with the inhibiting properties.Ospho inhibits rust by allowing the subsequently applied paint to tightly adhere to the surface of the metal so moisture and oxygen cannot attack it.It does not have to come in contact with rust to work.The color change is the phosphoric acid turning the rust to iron phosphate.But it is working wether it comes into contact with rust or not.Try taking a piece of freshly blasted metal and applying Ospho to half of it and then letting it sit out overnight. Anyway,I'll be covering the whole assembly with flat black enamel.
 
so its still protecting even if it doent turn that dark purple or black? i'll try that little experiment and see what happens
 
You still have to paint the part but just the bare Ospho coating will protect for a short time.
 

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