CK5
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What's that noise,,, FOUND IT :-/

Way back when, I ran Havoline 10W40 in my '79 Ford. Had about 120K on it, never used enough oil between changes to notice on the stick.

There was an oil change place between the house and the farm that was a Havoline dealer. One day I was running a little behind on the change and had to do some hard pulling at the farm.
So, I pulled into that place and told them to change it. There were bottles and bottles of my brand sitting around on shelves, but when they started to put in the new oil, they pulled a hose down from the ceiling with a dispenser nozzle on it.

It had the right label, and the set the knob to the right amount. But, I asked why they were not using it out of a bottle.
They said that they bought it in bulk and could give me a better price.

This was a big outfit either owned or licensed to Texaco, so I figured it would be OK.

I paid them off and headed to the farm.
About 30 miles.
As I was sitting at my power gate waiting for it to open, I suddenly saw lots of oil smoke blowing past the truck.

Checked, and I was burning oil. No leaks, it was coming out the tailpipe.

I figured that even though I expected better than 120K, it was a pretty good run considering the abuse it had suffered, so I started thinking about a rebuild.

By the end of the weekend, I was almost a quart down, so I poured in some of my stock.
The smoke seemed to get better after a while.

Few days later, I started wondering. Slid under, drained out the oil, put on a new filter and some Havoline out of bottles.

Within 5 minutes it had quit burning oil, and I put over 150K more on it with no oil issues.

Never went back there, of course. I still sometimes use those type places, but I bring my own oil and filter.
And watch it put in.
 
Well, pulled & dropped off the engine last week, got it back Thursday afternoon, worked on it all day yesterday, half of today. It's in there, hooked up & ready to go. Just need to add coolant and drop the exhaust Y-pipe real quick, as a 3/4 inch socket decided to find the 3 inch opening of the pipe as it fell off my ratchet during disassembly.:doah:

Should be running in a few hours. Working alittle slower today, pretty tired still from yesterday.

MAN there aare a TON of little tedious crap things to do on these stupid things. :confused:

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I asked Jenn if she wanted to clean up the up the intake cover and repaint the little Vortec emblem, she had a "better" idea.. :doah::tongue1:

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Taking a break, retrieved my socket from the exhaust tube, turned out to be a bit more of a chore than I remembered from the trans replacement job. Trans crossmember had to be dropped on one side, then fought getting that heavy y-pipe assy back up. Got it though, I believe all that's left now is water and hook up the battery. Gonna go study it for a bit to make sure everything is hooked up and right.
 
Well, got everything hooked up, connected the battery,,, nothing.... Dead,,, not sure why, It's fairly new, cables were unhooked, been down what, a month?

Anyways, got it jump started because the little standard charger just wasn't doin it


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Runs good, took it a bit to relearn everything, really interesting listening to the computer work things over. Test drove it, again it had to relearn the way it was going to run while driving. Got it back home, sounded awesome, nice smooth, quiet idle.
 
Were talking LS here Scott. Cams seem to be a fair bit more expensive. Id like to know the specs on the "RV" cam. Probably not worth the upgrade.

That lifter looks like my ass after fajitas night!

I understand that roller cams cost alot more than a flat tappet but keep in mind that the LS engine is a factory roller cam engine and the machine shop wanted to charge him $300 more to "upgrade" to an RV cam. He already needs to buy a new cam anyways so there is NO WAY that going from a factory roller cam to an "upgraded RV roller cam" is going to cost an extra $300. Now if the engine was a factory flat tappet cam engine and he was looking at going roller cam THEN I could see an "upgrade" charge of $300 for a roller cam (and even more for the lifters) but this wasn't the case.
 
I called the dealership on the different cams, I could get a stock cam for about $250 then lifters were almost another $200 more, a performance cam & lifter kit was about $600.

And those prices are through a guy Jenn knows that works for a dealership and gets some sort of discount.
 
Orieley and a few other places wanted around $400ish, just for a stock cam, and all had to be special ordered.
 
MAN there aare a TON of little tedious crap things to do on these stupid things. :confused:
Next time assemble engine completly on stand, install harness and drop in... way easier. They come out that way too...

Bummer this happened... sorry I had to laugh at the socket down exhaust pipe!
 
I understand that roller cams cost alot more than a flat tappet but keep in mind that the LS engine is a factory roller cam engine and the machine shop wanted to charge him $300 more to "upgrade" to an RV cam. He already needs to buy a new cam anyways so there is NO WAY that going from a factory roller cam to an "upgraded RV roller cam" is going to cost an extra $300. Now if the engine was a factory flat tappet cam engine and he was looking at going roller cam THEN I could see an "upgrade" charge of $300 for a roller cam (and even more for the lifters) but this wasn't the case.

My understanding is that in factory form the push rods and springs are almost maxed out. Any cam swap typically means one or the other of those getting changed out or both. He most likely would be able to reuse both pushrods and springs with a stock rebuild.

We did a cam swap on the race car and have nearly a thousand into it and that is at some really good guy sponsorship type prices.
 
By the way, I mentioned earlier in this thread about all the intake runners looking pretty bad, nasty and dirty. Turns out others and I believe that was from the wonderful K&N air filter currently on this thing.

We figure it's getting too much oil applied to it, then sucking it in the intake, caking everything up.

Seriously considering switching to a standard paper filter.
 
By the way, I mentioned earlier in this thread about all the intake runners looking pretty bad, nasty and dirty. Turns out others and I believe that was from the wonderful K&N air filter currently on this thing.

We figure it's getting too much oil applied to it, then sucking it in the intake, caking everything up.

Seriously considering switching to a standard paper filter.

Airaid makes a filter just like the K & N but it is oilless.
 
By the way, I mentioned earlier in this thread about all the intake runners looking pretty bad, nasty and dirty. Turns out others and I believe that was from the wonderful K&N air filter currently on this thing.

We figure it's getting too much oil applied to it, then sucking it in the intake, caking everything up.

Seriously considering switching to a standard paper filter.

It isn't just too much oil it's the oil period. In the diesel truck world a KN filter messes up the MAF almost instantly.

Look into the one's 4x4 high mentioned and Amsoil also has an oil less filter setup. We have been using them on the race car and like them so far. For really dusty conditions (Vegas to Reno 20 mile long silt beds) they need a pre filter.
 
Unbelievable...

I'm hearing some sort of noise tonight when I got back that is VERY similar to the initial noise that started originally...with the scrubbed up cam lobe :doah:

It's not nearly as loud as it was originally, but there is definitely something with the same pulse sound when I put it in park tonight.

Will know more in the next day or so, REALLY hoping it's not the same thing and if it is? well, pretty well screwed at the moment financially,, mainly because I WILL NOT be rebuilding this same block.

If it turns out to be the same thing, it's getting a whole new engine, but will have to sit for a few months unfortunately until funds are available.
 
Oh boy... Thinking maybe a plugged oil passage?

Or maybe the bore that particular lifter sits in is not within spec,maybe moving around a bit too much or something? I dunno....

Had the idea of that notorious piston slap noise, but this was after several miles of driving, and I could have sworn I read where that usually goes away after the engine warms up., maybe I'm wrong?

I'll be running the mattress monkeys to school tomorrow morning, we'll see how it sounds after that trip.
 
Nevermind, the sound is coming from the tailpipe, never heard it before this loud, typical Chevy lope and the Flowmaster 40 is amplifying it or something, possibly due to needing new spark plugs and wires, I know those need changed. :doah:
 

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