Their web site only sells them in bulk. Are they more flexible if you show up in person?
CK5
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What's the deal with this body mount?
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
Their web site only sells them in bulk. Are they more flexible if you show up in person?
rampage
3/4 ton status
Don't know. Might depend upon the how nice the salesperson is and how much of a sad story you give them. 
Looks like I could just get them from LMC. Anyone know about part #28? I'm wondering if it should be reused with the poly kits. I was planning to put one of the big washers up there already. EDIT: I'm thinking one or more of these might be there for body alignment. Just leave them there, right?
I didn't use carriage bolts. I used the hex bolts that came in the ORD kit w/ the 1" body lift. It doesn't matter except personal preference. Grade 5 is fine also. The body will pull apart before you need the strength of a grade 8.
You have hex heads in the bed then? I did my Scout that way, but it could be annoying when sliding stuff in. It might matter more without carpet too. And you'll definitely need a helper to tighten them down...
I found a place called nutty.com that has the carriage bolts in grade 5. Only in plain steel though, no finish. Any opinions on that? Will they rust away quickly? I'm not actually sure if factory bolts are coated. Sometimes black phosphate, but would the factory body mount bolts come coated?
LMC seems a little too proud of the bolts. It'd be $45 shipped to get four carriage bolts.
Yeah, My wife was holding the wrench in the bed while I tightened underneath. She's a keeper.
I'm not too worried about the bolt heads. They are in a valley of the ridged bed floor, so they actually only protrude about 1/8" above the high ribs.
Carriage bolts are ideal, but not necessary IMO. However, based on the condition of the bolts I removed, I would definitely go for something with a protective coating. Or at least paint it yourself when you install.
I'm not too worried about the bolt heads. They are in a valley of the ridged bed floor, so they actually only protrude about 1/8" above the high ribs.
Carriage bolts are ideal, but not necessary IMO. However, based on the condition of the bolts I removed, I would definitely go for something with a protective coating. Or at least paint it yourself when you install.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I might have some of those bolts from lmc I could send your way. I ended up using standard grade 8 bolts.
That would be great, let me know by PM. Thanks.
I believe Dorman has truck bed bolts that are grade 5 carriage heads ,that might work for you,if they were long enough...
I ordered the bolts from LMC and they just showed up. The long carriage bolt is only 5" long. I wonder where the disconnect is compared to what you measured? I'm going to go eyeball these against the truck and see if it's obviously too short or anything.
EDIT: The 5" seems to line up right with my 83 K5.
Strange. 
Getting ready to tear into this now. What did you guys find to be the easiest way to jack the body? I could do bottle jacks on some sort of cribbing, or a couple floor jacks with 4x4 extenders. Maybe floor jacks up on some sort of risers. Looking for good/safe ideas. 4x4 against the body no matter what, just thinking about how to jack against that.
I think its better to put the floor jack on some kind of platform or box,rather than use a 4x4 wood post on end to reach the body--doing it that way tends to make the jack want to roll as you lift the body up,and the wood post gets chucked out just as the body gets to the height you needed..
With bottle jacks you'll need a lot of cribbing,and it'll take multiple lifts and blocking up the body to get it high enough..
With bottle jacks you'll need a lot of cribbing,and it'll take multiple lifts and blocking up the body to get it high enough..
high lift under the rocker panel with the load distributed via a wood block.
Not the safest, but it was effective. There's a support rib under the body just outboard of the framerails that I lifted from. You could pretty much do the same thing with a safer cribbing setup.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I just use a 2x6 about 18" long and jack it up with a floor jack. You only need to get the weight off of it, not lift it off completely. Of course you'll have to go high enough to unload your suspension.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
I used a scissor jack between the body and frame and that worked perfect for all
But the front ones at the core support. I took off the front clip to easily move the core support up and out of the way to replace those two.
But the front ones at the core support. I took off the front clip to easily move the core support up and out of the way to replace those two.
How did you get the floor jack to reach?
SouthernYank
1/2 ton status
rampage
3/4 ton status
I used a 2x4 against the underside of the body and crowbar between that and the frame. As was said, you don't need to lift it much, just enough to get the pressure off the mount and the new one it.
