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What’s wrong with my nv4500s?

Output shaft appears to have 12 thou runout when rotated with a ratchet.

Runnable? or wait ‘till I have the magic sauce and check while engine is running and in gear?


View attachment 451100


Replaced liquid motor mounts with OE solid rubber ones.

View attachment 451101
I’d definitely be inclined to see what the results are with the lube - I don’t know what runout is on an acceptable level but I would think this would cause havoc on immediate local bearings in the long run.
 
I’d consider that bent :(
Hopefully your wobbly ratchet is side loading it..

Well fork.

Tracking for lube has it here on Sunday. I’ll check again then with engine running, eliminate the wobbly ratchet and not proceed installing transfer case.
 
I’d consider that bent :(
Hopefully your wobbly ratchet is side loading it..

I’ve tried every mounting surface I can think of aiming the dial indicator at and to eliminate the wobbly wratchet I’ve tried rotating with a drill and by hand (lol). Minimum runout is the same as above.

If that’s a no go, I feel that I’d be wasting the fluid $ needed to run it, because I’d be confirming whats been confirmed.

Focus on fixing or having fixed?
 
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I’ve tried every mounting surface I can think of aiming the dial indicator at and to eliminate the wobbly wratchet I’ve tried rotating with a drill and by hand (lol). Minimum runout is the same as above.

If that’s a no go, I feel that I’d be wasting the fluid $ needed to run it, because I’d be confirming whats been confirmed.

Focus on fixing or having fixed?
That’s such a bummer man.
 
Sucks, but nothing but a drop in a bucket compared to what other folks are dealing with on this site to not go far.

So it’s all good.

You recently rebuilt one correct? I think Zoomad’s builder swapped out brass synchro rings for the fiber, did you do the same? Off to search…
 
Sucks, but nothing but a drop in a bucket compared to what other folks are dealing with on this site to not go far.

So it’s all good.

You recently rebuilt one correct? I think Zoomad’s builder swapped out brass synchro rings for the fiber, did you do the same? Off to search…
Yeah I completely overhauled mine. It was a 2wd, so it got a new 4wd main shaft as well. I got everything from Torqueking. I used the stock style carbon fiber rings.
 
Last pic with runout #s.

2F2EB749-387F-4081-A6B1-FB1A4F754441.jpeg

Cruiser shops in the area wanted nothing to do with rebuilding this. Figured I’d give it go myself.

Must be going ok, I’d only gotten to page 6 and had already used most of the hammers I own.

068CB89A-307E-41CF-8CBB-8475D0E0E02F.jpeg

The offending shaft.

3F8D85D8-E230-4B64-9FDB-6B14B1CD08CB.jpeg
 
Old vs new and my diy strut compressor, lol.

5AA73F4B-2A13-4D2E-9CF6-99DDE32F069F.jpeg

New is in, runout is less than 0.002” the entire length of the shaft. Waiting for a shim pack to set proper end play and keep going.

05614564-F9C7-4163-9B69-7566AD837548.jpeg

Hey @obijuank5, you mentioned anchor was junk and I have to agree those motors sucked. I ordered Marmon Ride Control’s HD and it looks like the same chingadera, plus an extra bracket. Got a bueno, bonito, barato option up your sleeve?

3C196D47-A35F-44FD-86B9-616A170CFCE6.jpeg
 
We almost exclusively installed ac Delco isolators on the gm trucks. It was more expensive but it also lasted 10+ years on the tuned and workhorse diesels we saw. If the engine came out, it automatically got new mounts if it needed em or not.
 
Gotcha, couldn’t find gm for this application but I got this coming. For 6.0s w/auto, see if I can make it work.

7AB05A27-D176-46D0-8215-16A0C9BC153B.jpeg
 
Filled her full of fluids and had a successful trip around the block, 1-4 and reverse work fine. Didn’t go fast enough to use OD, lol.

IMG_8029.jpeg

...Another theory to consider is drivetrain mounting out of alignment. ...

... One way to check this is with your engine bolted in see how your transmission sits on your trans mount. Is there a large gap on one side or is it sitting on it flat?

Said I'd check and I didn't, but knowing that I had a failed motor mount at some point, so for a period of time there was misalignment.

You bringing that to my attention made me triple check this time around, thanks. New motor mounts required new mounting brackets, so I took the time to get the drivetrain as square and level as possible.
 
... snip ... a good idea would be to add some T-case to bell housing area bracing that has an angle from one point to another for rigidity. The later square GM motor mount to converter inspection cover bracing and side brace were all to help save the bell area from forming cracks. You would be doing the same but just a little further down the line.

Made this up out of what I had on hand, thoughts or areas of opportunity?
IMG_8293.jpeg
 
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Well, so far so good with diagnosis, repair/upgrade on tranny #1. Thanks guys.

tranny #2, it’s a freshly rebuilt and converted to 4wd by the only shop that wanted to touch it when I was shopping around a couple years ago.

Noise of concern enters chat at about the 10 sec. mark and if you power through the vid. it’s dependent on the rpm’s.

Any chance it’s not the tranny?

View attachment IMG_2414.mov
 

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