88 Blazer overlander
Newbie
I'm about to swap my 88 K5's 10 bolt rear for a 14 bolt rear. Is a 6 lug wheel hub still gonna do the trick when I go from 35s to 37s or should I go for something a bit more stout?
CK5
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Wheel hub options for a 14 bolt
- Thread starter 88 Blazer overlander
- Start date
only aftermarket is 5 or 6 lug for 14ff rear hubs .
if other than 8 lug then be prepared to do custom brake stuff and it will prob be disk brakes .
whats your big planes and needs ? more info than what you gave would be helpful .
if other than 8 lug then be prepared to do custom brake stuff and it will prob be disk brakes .
whats your big planes and needs ? more info than what you gave would be helpful .
88 Blazer overlander
Newbie
My needs? I need this Blazer to be relatively multipurpose. Good enough off road to not worry about getting stuck, but reasonable enough to DD. So far the idea I've got for drive/power train is a TBI 350, 4L60E, NP208c, Dana 60 front, 14 bolt rear, 6" lift, 37x12.50R15s. Please let me know if you need more information, I am open to suggestions for as the only parts off that list I have installed is the 350, the NP208, and the lift (with 35s)
You Will want to go to 17" 8 x 6.5 lug circle for 1 ton axles. The 15" might have clearance issues with the d60 disc brakes, plus much better tire choices for 17" wheels.
sounds like a solid build .
x2 on 17" tires/ rims now a days . 15" is fazing out . and if doing 15" on dana 60 front and stock 1ton brakes its 2.5"-2.75" backspace to clean or 3"-3.5" with light grinding on brakes to clean . going 17" gets you past all than and TONS of tire size options .
i would just keep the 8 lug on both and do a disk kit on the rear or even better late model 14FF with factory dick/e-brake combo and be done with it .
if no mud planned i would keep the drums in the rear if there 13" off the 1ton . they will be fine unless you play in lots of mud .
x2 on 17" tires/ rims now a days . 15" is fazing out . and if doing 15" on dana 60 front and stock 1ton brakes its 2.5"-2.75" backspace to clean or 3"-3.5" with light grinding on brakes to clean . going 17" gets you past all than and TONS of tire size options .
i would just keep the 8 lug on both and do a disk kit on the rear or even better late model 14FF with factory dick/e-brake combo and be done with it .
if no mud planned i would keep the drums in the rear if there 13" off the 1ton . they will be fine unless you play in lots of mud .
88 Blazer overlander
Newbie
Thank you much, like I said those plans weren't concrete so I could find out what will and won't work so I can buy once and cry once. Any recommendations for driveshafts or U joints, I was think Spicer 1410s because logic tells me the same 1350s that I used on my 10 bolt would defeat the purpose of a 1 ton axle, same with reusing the same driveshafts
Chevy350Ben
Part time mall crawler
IIRC the stock 10 bolts came with 1310 ujoints. My d60/14bff came with 1350 yokes. As is most common with 1 ton axles.
I don't know the 205 well enough,, but with a 6" lift, you may want to think about a slip yoke eliminator and double cardan driveshaft.
I don't know the 205 well enough,, but with a 6" lift, you may want to think about a slip yoke eliminator and double cardan driveshaft.
You need to pick the fuse in the driveline. By going to 1 ton axles you move the breaking point up into the joints of the driveshafts. Then if you upgrade your u joints to larger sizes it moves the fuse into the transfer case or transmission which could be way more expensive and complicated.
I decided to keep the factory 1310 in the front and 1350 in the rear and carry 1 extra of each. I haven’t had them pop yet but am prepared.
I had a first gen 4runner on tons and 40’s and ran 1350 front and rear and never had any issues but worried about snapping one of the shafts in the doubler.
I decided to keep the factory 1310 in the front and 1350 in the rear and carry 1 extra of each. I haven’t had them pop yet but am prepared.
I had a first gen 4runner on tons and 40’s and ran 1350 front and rear and never had any issues but worried about snapping one of the shafts in the doubler.
the 1350 u joint on the rear 14bolt has more range of angle, iirc, than a 1410.
Your backwards on that . 1410 has more over 1350 .
Well theae days you can get wheel hubs for both 60/14 axles in 5, 6, or 8 lug options, just cost money.
