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Wheelbase/frame swap for trail rig

Devillusion

Devillusion

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Ok, so here is my thoughts. I have a regular cab 1 ton dually frame with a 60 and a 70. Was thinking I would put my 91 Suburban body on my 1 ton regular cab frame.

Regular cab frame is 129.5" (wheelbase)
Suburban frame is 131.5" (wheelbase)

....so, if I was to do a 63" rear leaf swap with 52's up front.......and move the rear spring pack mount forward 4", stretch the wheel wells 4" wider, and 4" higher (front and rear) I think it should work no? I realize I might have to do a body lift of some sort...but we'll see.

Or am I out to lunch...lol.


I guess I also have a crew cab long box 4x4 frame sitting here as well that could shorten. Just looking for the 1 ton frame option is all.

...any input/discussion on the matter?

:D
 
Ultimately I am doing a trail rig that I can haul the family around in, and still use as a work horse.

I tried to find the thread again to find the builders name of this truck I shopped, please let me know if there is an issue using your picture, cause if there is then I will gladly remove it. I took your modification and pushed a bit further into the custom area.

I stretched the wheel wells out and upward, and hacked off the rear portion of the burban long arse trait. Kind of an OOBS tahoe of sorts I guess with a removeable top. The top will have to be shortened as well, but shouldn't be unatainable.

..again, please let me know if there is an issue with using this picture.

Thanks!
:bow:

Sub urban assault vehicle.jpg
 
The burb body will fit better on the CC chassis. You'd have to play with body lift/floor mods to put it on the single cab frame. I researched the same thing for myself a while back. Someone on here did that (don't remember who), and I got to see how much work it was on his build thread.:doah:
 
So are there any differences from the sub to the crew frame other than length? Anyone done this?
 
I put a CrewCab on a Sub frame, no problems except I had to make a cross member for the rear of the cab. Remember, all of the Suburban body mounts are outside of the frame. Here's a pic. of my '75 Sub frame.
0319091432-01.jpg

Image0123.jpg
 
When I was building the k30, I did the frame research. The only real difference that I found was the height of the channel. I measured my first half ton suburban frame and the k30 frame thickness and didn't find a difference. As far as wheelbase goes, the modifications needed to do the swap could be done on the suburban frame. Than the use of a body lift won't be needed. IMOA, the work to swap a sub onto a k30 frame isn't worth it. There is plenty of good vendors on here that can supply you with the suspension upgrades to put the 60 & 70 under the burban frame.
 
Was never worried about swapping the hardware, it is the larger more durable frame I was after. To which now I found a 91 Blazer with a 6.2 instead. We'll see maybe I'll swap that frame instead.
 
I just measured the 3/4 ton frame and whats left of the 1 ton. They are both 3/8ths thick. Reading the other thread shows everything was measured with a mic. I just did mine with a good tape. To me, a sixteenth of an inch difference in steel thickness is the same as a differnce in vendors depending on factory and year built.

I still stand on my opinion of just swapping running gear.
 
But the measurement from top to bottom is considerably different. Either way, the burb has fallen through and I purchased a 91 Blazer with a 6.2 in it instead for cheaper. Toss in my tons, standard trans, 205 and wheel it for now.
 
Now I KNOW you had a 12 pack in you, since the 1 ton is just about 1/4" and the rest are thinner. If he was compaing to a 1/2 ton burb @ .177" it would be a substantial gain in strength. Guess it doesn't matter since he changed direction now.
 
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