Wheels bearings - check/change

[MagnuM4WD]

How can I take out the axle shaft? Is necessary to take out the differential cover?
I want to check/change the bearings. How I do it on the front wheels? It must take out the wheel hubs? (GM 10b / GM 14bsf)

 

[noahrob]

Romania? Seriouly? That's cool...

Anyway, if you are just trying to change the wheel bearings in the front (10b or D44? yes i can read what it says, but I am a little slow, sorry) of a dana 44 axle, you do not need to take out the axle shafts, all you do it is take off the locking hub assembly and the spndle lock (special tool may be required). At that point, (assuming the brake caliper and wheel are off) the rotor comes off and viola, you have access to the wheel bearings...Hope that helps...good luck.

 

[dyeager535]

The rears are typically a pain to pull, in my opinion, pull the axleshafts as part of a complete rear axle inspection, and if the axleshafts aren't showing wear (and the 14SF should hold up quite well with the bigger bearings) I wouldn't mess with them.

They make "repair bearings" for trucks that have axleshafts gouged by the stock bearings, they move the contact surface on the axleshaft. I would imagine in Romania getting 14SF axleshafts (or repair bearings) is a bit problematic.

 

[WY_75]

Not to hijack the thread, but how do you inspect/replace the bearings in a 14bff?

I am somewhat of a noob when it comes to the heavy duty parts that 3/4 and /-tons use, and am not familiar with their maintenance requirements. I know how to remove and replace the rear axle bearings in a 1/2 ton, but I now have a K20, and I feel that I need to check the bearings out in the 14bff as the truck has been sitting a long time.

Can anyone give me a link, because I am sure this has already been discussed.

Thanks.

 

[MagnuM4WD]

The rears are typically a pain to pull, in my opinion, pull the axleshafts as part of a complete rear axle inspection, and if the axleshafts aren't showing wear (and the 14SF should hold up quite well with the bigger bearings) I wouldn't mess with them.

They make "repair bearings" for trucks that have axleshafts gouged by the stock bearings, they move the contact surface on the axleshaft. I would imagine in Romania getting 14SF axleshafts (or repair bearings) is a bit problematic.

You can be surprise, to find how many things can be do it here! Anyway, I don't want to repair bearings, axle shafts, etc. ... I want to replace with new parts - in that case, new bearings.
So, I don't have acces to the bearings, if, only take out the weel, drum and shoes! I must take out the axle shaft. Because is a semi-floated axle shaft, I can't take it out from the wheel side - like a full-floated. In that case, I suppose, is necesary to take out the differential cover, because, I presume, it have there a kind of lock clip-axle. If somebody do this and he know what is need to do, I want to listen him. Any kind of suggestions are wellcome.

 

[MagnuM4WD]

Not to hijack the thread, but how do you inspect/replace the bearings in a 14bff?

I am somewhat of a noob when it comes to the heavy duty parts that 3/4 and /-tons use, and am not familiar with their maintenance requirements. I know how to remove and replace the rear axle bearings in a 1/2 ton, but I now have a K20, and I feel that I need to check the bearings out in the 14bff as the truck has been sitting a long time.

Can anyone give me a link, because I am sure this has already been discussed.

Thanks.

On your axle is more easy, because, on that type of axle, the exterior head of axle shaft is fixed on the hub with screws. In that case, you take out the screws and pull out the axle shaft. After that, you have acces directly to the wheels bearings.
If you have any suggestion for 14bsf, please tell me.

 

[MagnuM4WD]

Romania? Seriouly? That's cool...

Anyway, if you are just trying to change the wheel bearings in the front (10b or D44? yes i can read what it says, but I am a little slow, sorry) of a dana 44 axle, you do not need to take out the axle shafts, all you do it is take off the locking hub assembly and the spndle lock (special tool may be required). At that point, (assuming the brake caliper and wheel are off) the rotor comes off and viola, you have access to the wheel bearings...Hope that helps...good luck.

Thanks! It really helps! My question was about take it off, or not, the front lock hubs, to have acces to the wheel bearings. If the D 44 is like GM 10b, I already make an ideea about that.

 

[MagnuM4WD]

No one do this before?!

 

[dyeager535]

You are correct on the rear. Cover comes off, rotate the carrier until you see a 10MM bolt head, remove that, push the pin through the housing until you can push each axle inward, when you do that, the clip (c-clip) will either fall off, or be easily accessible to pull off. If it's a gov-lock rear axle, it will be a bit different.

Repair bearings ARE new, but since the roller bearings ride directly on the axleshaft, as the assembly wears, the axleshaft itself gets a groove worn in it. Just putting a new bearing in is a bad idea, because it may not line up with the groove, and you'll likely just wear the new bearing out faster. The repair bearing is a new bearing, same design, except when you install it, the bearings are either further in or out than the originals. That way the bearings ride on a perfectly smooth surface.

Haven't had the front apart that far, sorry!

 

[hack500]

magnum: this is for the front. it'll help to have another set of eyes there to look and see if something other than the tire moves.

With the wheels on and the truck jacked up and the steering wheel locked. try and wiggle the top and bottom of the wheel in and out then rotate your hands on the wheel 90 degrees (front/backof wheel) and check for movement if there isn't any or it's 3mm or less that's good. if the movement is only top-bottom then it's most likely balljoints. if it's only front-rear then the steering components should be checked out further for excessive play. if it's equal both ways and nothing else is moving then the wheel bearings should be pulled out and checked.

if there's no movement I'd just pull the locking hub off and see how the wheel bearing grease looks and unless it's dirty I'd say it's good.


to get to the wheel bearings:
take off the calipers, locking hubs, and spindle nuts - watch out for the little pin in the inner spindle nut that goes into the lock washer.
with the spindle nuts off the outer wheel bearing can come out - sometimes it'll fall right out when you wiggle the rotor or, usually, fall to the ground when you pull the rotor/hub off. any bluing or deep scratches or gouges or if it's rusty then the bearings and races should be replaced. you'll need to pull the wheel seal out to get to the inner wheel bearing.
even if the bearings are fine, it's a good idea to replace the wheel seal because it usually gets mangled trying to remove it from the bearing hub.

removing the spindle nut can be done with a hammer and punch butto reassemble you'll need a spindle nut socket, which you being in romania, I have no idea if you'd be able to find the correct one. the reason why is because the inner spindle nut needs to be torqued properly to get the correct pre-load on the bearings. otherwise they may be too tight or too lose and cause premature wear on the bearings. I can't remember the correct torque numbers right now but hopefully someone will post up for ya, if not I'll try to find 'em later.

btw, the 10b the same procedures as a dana44 when it comes to front wheel bearings.

 

[MagnuM4WD]

You are correct on the rear. Cover comes off, rotate the carrier until you see a 10MM bolt head, remove that, push the pin through the housing until you can push each axle inward, when you do that, the clip (c-clip) will either fall off, or be easily accessible to pull off. If it's a gov-lock rear axle, it will be a bit different.

Repair bearings ARE new, but since the roller bearings ride directly on the axleshaft, as the assembly wears, the axleshaft itself gets a groove worn in it. Just putting a new bearing in is a bad idea, because it may not line up with the groove, and you'll likely just wear the new bearing out faster. The repair bearing is a new bearing, same design, except when you install it, the bearings are either further in or out than the originals. That way the bearings ride on a perfectly smooth surface.

Haven't had the front apart that far, sorry!

Now I understand! In that case, where can I find repair bearings for GM 14bsf? How will I know what kind of repair bearings must buy? There are more types?
What is a gov-lock rear axle?

 

[MagnuM4WD]

removing the spindle nut can be done with a hammer and punch butto reassemble you'll need a spindle nut socket, which you being in romania, I have no idea if you'd be able to find the correct one. the reason why is because the inner spindle nut needs to be torqued properly to get the correct pre-load on the bearings. otherwise they may be too tight or too lose and cause premature wear on the bearings. I can't remember the correct torque numbers right now but hopefully someone will post up for ya, if not I'll try to find 'em later.

btw, the 10b the same procedures as a dana44 when it comes to front wheel bearings.

That can be a problem... I think, I will do it on the work place (garage), because, I have there, a very good mechanic, who do this operation to our trucks (Mercedes-Benz, MAN, DAF, Volvo, Scania) and trailers! Multumesc! (Thank you!)