When did disk brakes start in the rear for Suburbans?

[Fubeca]

I'm thinking of getting a suburban. I'll probably get a 1999 for several reasons - but I'm also considering the next generation.

Does anyone know if they started rear disks with the generation change? Was it an option? If not, what year did they start?

I think I'd rather have a '99 with the 5.7 instead of a piston slapping 5.3 but I'm on the fence a little. I'm assuming the MPG would be about the same.

 

[sweetk30]

i would get a 6.0 my self.

and if i recall the 99-up body change got disk rear. lots of problems with them up here in the salt belt. thay finaly started offering drum again 2-3 years ago.

 

[Fubeca]

I'm leaning toward a 1/2 ton silverado or suburban. I don't tow anything heavy anymore and I've heard that the highway mileage on the 5.3 is quite a bit better than the 6.0.

What is the problem with rear disks in the rust belt? Is it problems with the e-brake mechanism?

I wasn't sure they'd started with rear disks right away with the new body style or waited a few years.

 

[sweetk30]

ebrake guts root off.

main disk pads freeze to the brackets on front and rear caliper brackets. and the rear caliper slides freeze in the brackets.

if you get one. tear it apart and grind off any rust and anti seeze it and check all binding points and clearence as needed. should be good to go.

boy do thay make us a lot of money in the repair shops with this crap. and you can buy loaded backing plate for the ebake stuff from the dealer cheeper than fixing the stuff. and install 2 new axle seals wheen its all apart with new diff oil. lots of work all in 1 big job.

basicly the pads freeze to the brackets and the caliper cant push the pads or let them float. so its burn up a pad and like new pad with rusted rotor on that face. its all b/s from crappy designs.

 

[Fubeca]

So basically if you keep it clean and lubed you are fine. If you never take the wheels/rotors off, you're in for trouble?

I've been looking around and have found a well kept '99 silverado extended cab with only 90,000 miles. I'm debating staying cheapish or going whole hog and spending more than I originally wanted to get something newer. I plan to keep whatever I get for about 5 years ~ 50,000 miles.

I'll definitely look at the e-brake stuff before buying - I don't want a $$$$ surprise.

 

[noJeepshere]

Rear disc started with the newer body style. All the newer motors will make better economy then the older ones, along with more power. I'm trying to convince my dad to get an '04 fully loaded 1500 Subby, well see how that goes.

 

[dhcomp]

rear disk was 99 for the 1/2 ton trucks (and light duty 3/4 tons), and 2000 for suburbans.

For DD /light towing duties, i like the 2000 series a LOT better. The coil sprung rear on the 1/2 tons rides a lot better, etc. Soft suspension, but its a grocery getter, not really a hard core off road rig. My parents love their 01 tahoe.

 

[Avery4jc]

I vote for a newer rig... the difference in performance between the 5.7's and a 5.3 is noticeable. Two of my boss' have 1/2 ton trucks with the 5.3 and they run like a champ and get really good mileage.

 

[noJeepshere]

I vote for a newer rig... the difference in performance between the 5.7's and a 5.3 is noticeable. Two of my boss' have 1/2 ton trucks with the 5.3 and they run like a champ and get really good mileage.

Yes yes, last year when me and my dad were looking for Suburbans to replace the one that got heisted, we drove a variety of each body style, and the 5.3 walked circles around the 5.7. Not that the old 5.7 was any slouch either.

Fuel economy, on the other hand, depends entirely on how you drive. If I drive my '99 Yukon with the 350 nicely, I can get 17 out of it. Most of my friends that have newer trucks, but don't get the numbers I get, simply because they don't drive them nearly as nice. I drive like a grandma, you'll prolly pass me on the highway, but hey, I'm getting good numbers.