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When it comes time for new tires....

PM Receved BIGBLAZE433 lol

yea ill try to find the stuff out this comming week hopefully
tom ford
 
If you go with 35's (which you SHOULD) use OD on the 700 conservatively at speeds under 45 with 4.10 gears. Go with 4.56, 4.88 or 5.13's if you want to cruise all day on OD gear. I ran 36" tsl's with 3/4 ton's for a long time on my K5 with a detroit in the rear and 4.88's. It was probably the best setup I've had until my current build. Although...

If I had known how easily parts would explode under my rig with 44's, I wouldn't have gone bigger than 39's. :doah:
 
GO WITH 5.13s!!!! don't screw around with anything less. I DD my truck on 36s and 5.13s in the 1 tons. Its a great ratio and its nice having OD back again. After those 35s wear out, you will want to go bigger...and honestly, i wouldn't want to street drive a truck too much on much over 37s with 4.56s...plus having that bottom end is nice. I DDed the truck on 40s for a little while with 5.13s and definately would have liked a little lower...like the others have said, play with the gearing calcs. The RPMs aren't that bad at all. You will kick yourself in the ass later on if you don't go deeper than 4.56s...

BTW, how many old ass blazers on 40s do you know of that got 10+ mpg city and 12-13 mpg on the highway with an old 350? not too many...since no one likes to gear correctly/deep enough. You wont notice the high RPMs till over 70, and a big blazer on 35s or bigger shouldn't be doing much over 70 anyway...
 
TruckNutzDude said:
If you go with 35's (which you SHOULD) use OD on the 700 conservatively at speeds under 45 with 4.10 gears. Go with 4.56, 4.88 or 5.13's if you want to cruise all day on OD gear. I ran 36" tsl's with 3/4 ton's for a long time on my K5 with a detroit in the rear and 4.88's. It was probably the best setup I've had until my current build. Although...

If I had known how easily parts would explode under my rig with 44's, I wouldn't have gone bigger than 39's. :doah:
By that you just mean going over 45 right?

What ratio should i go with, taking the fact I run a 700r4 into consideration....

I travel mostly city ( for now anyways ) which is around 35 MPH, but do a good amount of highway also, which is around 50-60 MPH in MA, and when i go to NH or some parts of MA, upwards of 70 MPH.....
 
what are the chances that tomfords` axles, which are out of an 84? K20, are 4.56s?

Thats looking like the ratio I`ll go with, I`m going to talk to some people today about a Dana 60.....

Anyone got a cheap 14bff rear with 4.56s?
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
what are the chances that tomfords` axles, which are out of an 84? K20, are 4.56s?

Thats looking like the ratio I`ll go with, I`m going to talk to some people today about a Dana 60.....

Anyone got a cheap 14bff rear with 4.56s?

his are probably 3.73's. use 3rd gear under 45mph OD for 45+ mph
 
TruckNutzDude said:
his are probably 3.73's. use 3rd gear under 45mph OD for 45+ mph
ahhhhhhh, that could work i guess...Would I need to do the same with 4.56s??

come on tomford, check em out! I`m getting anxious!!!!:D
 
Would I be able to build up my 1/2 ton 10 b front enough, and swap in 4.10s, and have it last???? Or is not worth it???? Am i better off grabbing a D60, or a 3/4 ton 10bolt???

The reason I say this, is if the front can work good if its built up, then I could stay 6 lug, and possibly just snag a 14SF??

But I still cant get over the fact that a D60/14BFF with 35" tires seems virtually indestructible......
 
You could start throwing parts at ur 10 bolt and it will be close to the strength of a stock dana 60. But u could probably find a 60 for less than it would cost to upgrade th 10b.

And just to let you know the 3/4 ton 10 bolt is gonna be the same streangth as the 1/2ton. The only nice thing is having 8-lug so you can swap a 14bff in the rear.

Just be patient and keep your eyes open for a dana 60. I came close to buying a stock drw 60 off of someone on here for 950. And then I came across a rebuilt 60 with 5.13s detroit and 35spline outers for 1100
 
The guy I bought my truck from knows a guy, who we meet up with at swap meets, who told me he has a handfull of d60s, so I want to get in touch with him.....What should I be expecting to pay for one?

Oh also for the rear, is the 14BFF a 3/4 ton, or 1 ton??? I should be looking for one from a 73-87 3/4 ton P/U right? That`s if i don`t want to screw with spring perches....
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
The guy I bought my truck from knows a guy, who we meet up with at swap meets, who told me he has a handfull of d60s, so I want to get in touch with him.....What should I be expecting to pay for one?

Oh also for the rear, is the 14BFF a 3/4 ton, or 1 ton??? I should be looking for one from a 73-87 3/4 ton P/U right? That`s if i don`t want to screw with spring perches....
You can expect to pay between 800-1200 for a 60. If it has more new parts obviously it will be more$.

As for the 14BFF try and get one from a 3/4 ton pickup if you dont want to cut/move perches. You can get one from a van and its gonna be about the same width as the front d60 but you will have to cut perches. They also come in 1-ton pickups and duallys and cab&chassis duallys. So there is actually like 4 different widths

Avoid the cab&chassis 14bff they are really narrow
 
If tires in the 35-37" range are all you're after, then I don't see any reason to jump to 1 tons. Yes, one tons are better, but they cost a lot more money, and are heavier. A built 10b will be just about indestructable with 35's, with a bit more maintanence. If you're playing in the rocks you need all the strength you can get, but for everyone else a 10b is plenty, especially when built. If I were you, I'd go to 8-lug, grab a FF for the rear and Detroit it, and regear to 4.88's. Run 35's and see what you break. If you leave the front open it should live. If you can find a good deal on a 60, then do it, but for $800-$1000 you can do a lot of stuff to your 10b.
 
bowtiepower00 said:
If tires in the 35-37" range are all you're after, then I don't see any reason to jump to 1 tons. Yes, one tons are better, but they cost a lot more money, and are heavier. A built 10b will be just about indestructable with 35's, with a bit more maintanence. If you're playing in the rocks you need all the strength you can get, but for everyone else a 10b is plenty, especially when built. If I were you, I'd go to 8-lug, grab a FF for the rear and Detroit it, and regear to 4.88's. Run 35's and see what you break. If you leave the front open it should live. If you can find a good deal on a 60, then do it, but for $800-$1000 you can do a lot of stuff to your 10b.
So, its looking like the price of a Dana 60 is going to be my deciding factor..Well, I still havent talked to that guy yet on the 60, but as soon as i do, I`ll post up the price he gives me..

I might be able to get a 8 lug 10 bolt for free, with 4.10s...Is there a way I can make it six lug? That is, only if i decide to go 14SF....

bowtiepower00 said:
If tires in the 35-37" range are all you're after, then I don't see any reason to jump to 1 tons. Yes, one tons are better, but they cost a lot more money, and are heavier. A built 10b will be just about indestructable with 35's, with a bit more maintanence. If you're playing in the rocks you need all the strength you can get, but for everyone else a 10b is plenty, especially when built. If I were you, I'd go to 8-lug, grab a FF for the rear and Detroit it, and regear to 4.88's. Run 35's and see what you break. If you leave the front open it should live. If you can find a good deal on a 60, then do it, but for $800-$1000 you can do a lot of stuff to your 10b.
and by that you mean?

Whats really making this a hard choice is tires. I`m going to be buying new tires in the next couple months, and switching to 1tons changes my options, as far as sizing and pricing goes...Will I still be able to run a 15" wheel with a D60/14BFF????​
 
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