CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

When running dual batteries,

cybrfire

1 ton status
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Dec 15, 2002
Posts
15,598
Reaction score
2,219
Location
Iowa
You hook the pos. to the pos. and on to the starter or whathave you. I know this. The grounds would normally go, neg. to neg. to frame/body/engine block and so on.

Can you run each battery to the frame or must they be attached to each other and then to the frame? Seems as you would end up with half the circuit in parallel and half the circuit in series.
 
It seems like if they are hooked up to a common ground (frame, block, etc) they would be the same as neg to neg.
 
That is correct. I have my battery's negatives tied to the body and the engine block, and not to eachother. I didn't feel like making another wire run across the engine bay.
 
As long as the ground potential is the same you will be OK. I'm sure some of the electrical engineers (FORDUM) will jump in with the exact science of it all.
 
You are good going straight to the frame off of each battery. While you are at it though, add AUX ground cables from Body to frame, and frame to engine ground stud. I've used the cheap Walmart "lawn and garden" cables for the purpose to keep costs down.

My batteries are grounded to the frame just outside of the middle of the exhaust manifolds, right on the top of the frame rail. There may even be some sort of factory bolt i used.

You running any sort of isolator? I love the 12voltguy.com setup i have.

Good luck!
 
you can ground then to different places, just make sure that you some of these connecting frame, body, and engine:

tay-148014.jpg
 
you can ground then to different places, just make sure that you some of these connecting frame, body, and engine:

tay-148014.jpg

I'm still running the factory ground strap also. Figure the worst thing that happens from running cables instead of straps is that they break down over time with movement. Oh well, they were cheap, i'll replace them then.
 
As long as the ground potential is the same you will be OK. I'm sure some of the electrical engineers (FORDUM) will jump in with the exact science of it all.
I'll dip in a toe rather than jump all the way in.

Under ideal circumstances, as long as there is no difference in voltage potential between the grounds you are fine. Even with a small amount you should not have too much trouble.
Which means if everything is bonded together by being bolted together solidly or with bonding wires or straps, then there should be no problem with running one wire to the body and one to the engine block.

But, if everything were perfect, we would not have a garage forum, because we would never be working on our trucks.

When designing wiring systems, you never figure on best case, always worst case.
If there is no short, you don't need that fuse.
Most fuses are a huge waste of money.
They just sit there and do nothing.
Except when they are needed.
Then they can be worth more than gold.
Gold is about $1200 per ounce. How much is it worth for your truck not to burn up?

Hooking up battery cables is a lot like that. Every time I have hooked up dual batteries, I always make sure that the ground cables are both hooked to the same continuous piece of metal.
Both to the engine block is my usual place. But, both to the frame is not bad. But, I would never go one to the block and one to the body.

If you lost a ground strap, you might get all kinds of voltages in strange places. Under certain circumstances, you could wind up with 24 volts on some components.

And even if going to the block, I would make sure I went both to the block and not one to the block and one to a bracket mounted on the block.

The neatest hookups I remember, used a set of cables off a diesel.
One of them, had a regular top post battery clamp which had a battery post molded into the clamp. The second battery used a double ended battery cable to hook them together.
And the other one, used marine type clamps with the stainless steel stud and nut on top of the clamp. Both battery cables were super heavy ring terminals.

However you do it, BE CAREFUL of that second positive wire.
When you run it from one battery to the other, think long term.
It usually goes across the engine compartment, which means it goes past or over all kinds of sharp or hot things.
Wire strapping it to that thin edged radiator support is fine today, but what happens after 20 or 30 thousand miles of pounding on dirt roads and vibration?

The only thing that saved a friend's truck was that the thin edge that wore through the insulation was too thin to stand up to the current. It melted and blew out before the wire could set anything else on fire. He saw the flash at night and opened the hood to see the smoke.

All my double battery setups have the positive cable run inside a piece of gray PVC conduit. I put the cable in, and gently heat the pipe to bend it to conform to what it has to travel around.

Dang, I only wanted to put my toe in, but got both feet wet...

J.
 
Protect your cables, replace ground straps and put the negatives on the same location.

Simple... I have both of mine on the block.
 
Protect your cables, replace ground straps and put the negatives on the same location.

Simple... I have both of mine on the block.
Yeah, I know. I can do simple, but wheres the fun?
 
Thanks, all what I wanted to hear. I just thought the install would be cleaner.

These batteries are in my blazer and in the back and there isn't a stitch of sharp metal anywhere around them. The grounds themselves will be attached too studs on the cage. I always run one ground up to the engine itself and usually hook it to the starter. Always has worked well for me. Then the ground straps as needed from block to body and so on. All my stuff, body, drivetrain and everything is hard mounted so there are lots of connection points as well.
 
All my stuff, body, drivetrain and everything is hard mounted so there are lots of connection points as well.


That's what I was gonna bring up... The fact that a lot of us have full cages welded to the frame... But, this is great info for all the guys wanting to do it the right way...
 
Shouldn't be a problem then. Most dual batteries I have worked on or installed were on opposite sides of the engine compartment.
Lots of sharp stuff there.
Be sure that the hot lead is well protected going from the back to the front.

J.
 
Ok, so I thought I had solid plan for dual battery install, but now I am doubting myself in how to hook up/distribute loads between them. I prefer to run without an isolator, just simple parallel, but if needed I'm not ruling it out. It all started with the new amp for the rollcage speakers, the single battery has so much crap run to it, looks sketchy - winch, 2 amps, alternator output, wire to starter. So 1st idea was a bus bar to physically clean up the positive terminal, then the "might as well bug" hit.

I had already installed a driver side tray in prep for batteries a while back. So I have 2 new duracell AGM batteries (~900CCA/ea). Was planning on using the core support for the "common ground", with engine to frame, and body grounds also(but not from each battery). That leaves the positive, i have a 2/0 cable to connect them across the core support.

My concern is if is good practice to hook the alternator and starter to the passenger side battery and the winch/amp loads to the driver's side battery via the bus bar?

OR do I need to have all of the connections are one bus bar where neither battery has connections, other then to each other and the bus bar?

Thanks ahead for input!
 
The great part about the isolator is that if something is left on, or you have a draw, you can still start the truck.

I'm running the dual battery setup from The12VoltGuy in both my trucks, and love it.
 
Since we are on the battery cable setup topic.
Who all runs some type of main fuse/circuit breaker?
I was thinking about running a short 2awg wire to a 200 amp circuit breaker and running the alternator and starter cable from there.
Right now I have 2awg running straight to the alt and starter.
 
I have the positives for both batteries run to a Blue Sea Systems battery switch. It allows you to isolate the batteries and cut them both off. I have the alternator connected on the output post of the battery switch. Also a cable that goes directly to the winch, one that goes to the starter, and another that goes to a little distribution block for the smaller battery loads.

I would have to double check, but I think I have the ground from the batteries tied together and then on to frame, engine, and body.
 
Since we are on the battery cable setup topic.
Who all runs some type of main fuse/circuit breaker?
I was thinking about running a short 2awg wire to a 200 amp circuit breaker and running the alternator and starter cable from there.
Right now I have 2awg running straight to the alt and starter.

I like this idea, I guess I am worried about adding load to the battery that isn't hooked to the alternator. Thinking of it like the current has to go from that battery to the loaded battery, longer distance?

Maybe overthinking it?
 
Since we are on the battery cable setup topic.
Who all runs some type of main fuse/circuit breaker?
I was thinking about running a short 2awg wire to a 200 amp circuit breaker and running the alternator and starter cable from there.
Right now I have 2awg running straight to the alt and starter.

I was running a 200 amp car stereo circuit breaker like that off the positive batt terminal..It worked great till the breaker wore out
 
Top Bottom