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When wheelin...i turn the steering wheel and the tires dont move??

crossover is the way to go. If you do then definitely get the steering brace and weld on patch. I got 5 hours of trail time in on my crossover setup before I tore the steering box off the frame. :doah: It's a lot harder to fix after its destroyed. Its also a lot harder to get out of the woods when there is NO connection between the steering wheel and tires. if you stay with that setup get a dropped pitman arm.
 
Mabey you can take a couple more pics, of the box itself. Something just looks funny to me but I can't put my finger on it. Surely someone lives around you that can swing by and take a look.

Just to be sure, you did say that you can turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, right? I'm not talking about turning it until it the steering wheel stops. I'm talking about the knuckles hitting THEIR mechanical stops. There is a difference. My steering is very hard and binds easily. In a bind I can only turn the steering wheel about 1 full turn in each direction. It should go about 2. It feels like it is hitting the stops, but it is just bound up.
 
Leper said:
Mabey you can take a couple more pics, of the box itself. Something just looks funny to me but I can't put my finger on it. Surely someone lives around you that can swing by and take a look.

Just to be sure, you did say that you can turn the steering wheel from lock to lock, right? I'm not talking about turning it until it the steering wheel stops. I'm talking about the knuckles hitting THEIR mechanical stops. There is a difference. My steering is very hard and binds easily. In a bind I can only turn the steering wheel about 1 full turn in each direction. It should go about 2. It feels like it is hitting the stops, but it is just bound up.
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That is correct sir, lock to lock.
Right now the wheels are straight and the pass front tire is pushed up again the curb. When turning right, i can turn the wheel to the right until mechanically stops at the lock. Against the curb it turns the wheels ~20* or so and lifts the truck up on the drivers side about ~3'' and 'appears' to move the axle backwards on the drivers side about an inch.

When i get a 2nd person here i will take a video, how bout that??
 
camarossguy2 said:
That is correct sir, lock to lock.
Right now the wheels are straight and the pass front tire is pushed up again the curb. When turning right, i can turn the wheel to the right until mechanically stops at the lock. Against the curb it turns the wheels ~20* or so and lifts the truck up on the drivers side about ~3'' and 'appears' to move the axle backwards on the drivers side about an inch.

When i get a 2nd person here i will take a video, how bout that??
Click to expand...

Sounds to me like you are trying to move the truck sideways with pushpull steering and you just dont have the leverage. As for the angled draglink comment you want the draglink to be parallel to the spring. On stock vehicles it is flat because the spring is flat. With the draglink maching the angle of the spring the theory is it will move through the same arc. This minimizes the effect of the axle moving fore and aft as it cycles. As everyone else has said go crossover. I was driving around yesterday with crossover and a welded front with no Hydro ram it is the ****. I even got it bound up sometimes so it is not a cure-all. The only way I can see to get your tires to turn whilst you have it against a curb like that is to put a ram on it.

Just m.02

Ira
 
OK, more photos of the box and VIDEOS! sorry about quicktime, but its all my digital camera puts out :doah:


P1010008.jpg

P1010007.jpg

P1010006.jpg

P1010005.jpg



vids


 
What I see is that there is so much angle on the draglink that when the tire is prevented from turning the draglink tries to go vertical (as opposed to straight back or straight forward) by lifting the truck. A drop pitman arm would help, you really need to have that draglink pretty much paralell to the ground. The better solution is crossover steering though.

It's hard to be certain looking at the video, but it does look like your steering box is squirming on the frame a bit too. Get a ratchet on the box bolts and make sure they're good and tight. As stupid as it seems those bolts do loosen up...especially when the box has been worked hard (like wheeling)

At the very least I'd also add a bolt on brace too. This will help keep your frame from cracking if it isn't already. You would only be about the 500th person that thought they had no frame cracks only to find out different later.



Rene
 
The vids do help. It still doesn't seem like the knuckles are hitting their stops though. From what I can see, the draglink angle is horrible. Thats why it lifts the truck and why you don't have much steering. It needs to be horizontal. As others have stated, crossover would help. AS far as the loose steering while driving, I thought I saw the box move just a little and the draglink ends are surely wasted from the angles you are forcing them at. IIWY I would really clean the frame around the box and have someone else turn the steering wheel while you look for ANY movement of the box.



BTW.... Your bumper looks alot like mine.
 
It's definately a steering geometry problem. Like others said, you're best bet would be crossover steering. Second best would be to correct that steering so the draglink is as horizontal as possible.
 
I figured that. I want to do this crossover steering but im scared that rust has froozen the ball joints in thus making it impossible to remove the knuckle.

I tried the drivers side a year back and ended up breaking the nut(backed it off and pounded on it) and bendign the hell out of the top ball joints threads. Had to shave it way short and find a new nut.

I guess i could cut out the old knuckle and then press out the ball joints with and impact or something....hmmmm


So everyone one thinks crossover is worth it?
 
camarossguy2 said:
2. I nailed a erroded creek wall about 2'' high (90* angle) in 2wd and although it made it up lol, it amlost made me smack into the horn with me face. After action inspection looked like the axle may have been pushed back slightly. Hmmm I though there were pins keeping this from happening, but i also have shims that might effect the depth those pins set into the axle recepticles... This might explain the slight forward back motion.....
Click to expand...
Yes there should be a centre pin thru the springpack and into a hole in the axle.
And I´m not sure but are your U-bolts the right ones they seem a little weak I could be wrong on that one too:doah:
 
the center pin on the spring pack was going to be my suggestion to check concerning the fore aft movement of the axle . My crew cab did this years ago. I thought it was something in the linkage, then my dad turned the wheel for me while i watched, and i'll be damned if the whole axle didn't move back and forth 2-2.5 inches or so.
 
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