CK5
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where do i hook up the vacuum advance???

How much advance are you getting at 2500rpm? That 500cfm carb will probably be a little small for your truck. To get the tuning right you may need (almost guarantee) a tuning kit with rods and jets to get good drivability.
Try setting the timing at 6degrees btdc vac disconnected and take it for a drive and see how it acts at cruise...standard highway speed or city driving. If it surges try readjusting the timing and repeat....as required for happy motoring.
George
 
smalltruckbigcid said:
Full throttle vacuum should not exceed 1.5 inches at WOT or the carb is to small and the motor will run lean at WOT because of excess vacuum signal at the boosters. Second you don't want more than about 38 degrees total timing at any time or you will get part throttle pinging as the timing over advances. Ported vacuum was done as an emissions measure to lean out the motor to help for smog reasons,and heres how you can tell what you have. I f you have a temp sensor on the top of the t'stat hosing and its hooked to 2 vacuum sources and goes to the distibutor on the 3rd vac line follow the 2 source vac lines to their source, those should be 1 ported and 1 manifold. It worked like this, if the engine was cold or at least not very hot it got ported vac timing, but if it got hot it got manifold vac timing to cool the engine down. This is how I hooked up my vacuum advance, got a Crane adjustable unit and set it for a max of 12 degrees and hooked it to manifold vac. Reworked the dizzy and set it for a max of 22 degrees mech advance. Set the total timing at 2500rpm for a max of 36 degrees from both sources. That means I'm setting at 2 degrees base timing, so it starts easy and then idles good as the vacuum advance comes on. This gives me the best part throttle crusing, no surging, and for whatever reason I get a little surge with 38 degrees timing so it stays at 36.
George
I'm saving my pennies for a MSD digital box and billet distributor, the timing retard feature for starting is so cool, you can run a locked distributor and still start the engine when its hot. Best of both worlds.

My guess is that you get bad gas mileage and lack HP mostly in high rpms.

You are running WAY TO LITTLE ADVANCE!!!!

Like I said before when people list their total timing (like all the hotrod type mags do for their dyno test motors) they list it WITHOUT VACUUM ADVANCE. It is without vacuum advance that you want to be around 36-38deg on a small block.

If you want to 'curve' your dist you need to start out with the vacuum advance plugged. Then set your base and mechanical advance to around 36-38 (like 10-12 base and 26 mechanical for a starting point). Then play with the springs putting looser springs on till it just starts to ping and then back it off a spring (you don't need the 2 springs to match). Then attach the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum and adjust it till it just starts to ping (at part throttle!) and back it off some.

There are points that you would have much more advance then 36*. Those times would be when you are at high throttle and very little throttle...like slowing down on the hwy, going down a hill, etc.

If you ever look in the 'spark map' for a DIS (distributorless ign. system) like an LS1 you would find advance values around 55* :eek:

There is no reason to "Invent your own way" to do this when it has been done (to death) by so many people that know what they are doing.
 
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