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Which Aluminum heads?

The Pro-Topline, bought by RHS and now found in some underground heads slipping out the back door of that foundry are the best of the heads for the price. Great castings! I have run them on a handful of engines and they are spectacular. You can't make a 30 year old casting work as good as these off the shelf without a real whiz welding/porting/epoxying like crazy.
The very best casting right now are the EQ (Engine Quest) EQ lightning heads. They are a true 'take them out of the box and they are ready to run.' I use them on about everything I build for this application, and a set is going on my 412ci for my Blazer early next week. Also running them on my SE boat, turning 7400 rpm all day long. And quite a few of my other engines floating around.
The pro comp stuff is decent, and need a quick look over and touch up before installing. Castings are O.K. but the finish work is not precise. But for the price, really hard to beat. Watch the edges where the seats are installed. They ususally need a de-burr so the thing won't detonate all day long.
I just have a few questions. Why aluminum? There are only three reasons to run aluminum heads. 1) they are lighter. (Does your truck really know or care about 40 pounds difference?) 2) you can run a touch higher compression without detonation because of heat transfer. (But if your pistons are what they are, no advantage there.) 3) they are easier to repair. (But at what you are looking to pay, welding and re-cutting a head is over your existing budget already.) Then throw in that they are more expensive, they are easier to warp and move, and Bill Mitchell did a test where the same bottom end, and the exact same set-up with the exact same CNC program on the heads, iron makes more power over aluminum on the dyno. (Although some don't believe these findings, he has published his dyno results.)
As for me, I would get a good set of re-built vortecs and run em! Great small runner for big down low torque, and depending on the casting you can get a nice small chamber to keep your compression up. You can also surf ebay for a pro-comp, or whatever they are pulling out of china this week, but don't go and waste your money on a 210 cc runner. a 200 is big for what you want. 180's are common in the aftermaket industry, I would go for a 180 if you were going that route.
 
Yeah, Patriots are decent. They tend to sink the valves a little far for real race stuff. Just clean up where they put the seats and they are good to go.
 
I just picked up a set of low milage Vortecs of CL for $100. I think you can run a carb intake for them with an adapter for the throttle body, and still not be in to deep. This was my plan, plus a cam swap.
 
i do believe, iirc, my gmpp vortec intake was only @ $250....and the cast iron vortecs i got thru gmpp aren't like the 1.94/1.5 production heads..they have 2.0/1.55 hollow stem exhaust is sodium filled...65cc combustion chamber & 206cc int/77cc exh ports and they run like a screamin banshee. these heads right here:


http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...34446/10002/-1

gmpp states those vortecs flow better than phase2 bowtie heads straight out the box..the bowties, ported flow better than the vortec, but the vortec head can be gasket matched & ported to flow better itself, but they run pretty dang good straight from gmpp!
 
I just have a few questions. Why aluminum?
2) you can run a touch higher compression without detonation because of heat transfer. (But if your pistons are what they are, no advantage there.)
2. reasons
1. I need more power
2. I'm running flat top pistons.

Truck does fine normaly and even while towing but when I try to go up a hill at 55 while towing a 4k lbs boat it starts to ping if I'm in 3rd and starts slowing down. If I drop it to second it does just fine up the hill but I can only do 55.

This hill is a pretty steep grade and about 1 mile long. Its a highway hill so I need to be able to do at least 55. So far I have been content with just dropping it into second it would be nice though if I didn't have to do that.
 
Gears are your friend. What gearing do you currently have and what size tire? You may have posted it already but i'm too lazy right now to go look for it.
 
What trans? If a 700R4 then i would say more gear would help at freeway speeds for towing. I also run 4.56 and 35" with a 700R4 and wished i would have went with 4.88's but when i do a gear change i'm going straight for 5.13's instead.
 
Id have to agree with the gears, I think heads would be an expensive ordeal and that you probably wont be satisfied with the gains you do get... Then again I may be wrong, Ill be the first to tell you that I dont know everything.
 
I've been seriously debating on gears VS heads. 50 more hp sounds nice to but I'm not sure it would be enough power.

I too don't know if I should get 4.88's or 5.13's. I have a 700R4 transmission I never tow in Overdrive I leave it in 3rd to tow.
 
" I too don't know if I should get 4.88's or 5.13's. I have a 700R4 transmission I never tow in Overdrive I leave it in 3rd to tow. "


. which you should.....

would gears be more expensive to have installed (2 sets)than doing a head/manifold job yourself though?
 
I've been seriously debating on gears VS heads. 50 more hp sounds nice to but I'm not sure it would be enough power.

I too don't know if I should get 4.88's or 5.13's. I have a 700R4 transmission I never tow in Overdrive I leave it in 3rd to tow.

Once again, too lazy to go searching but if you have 10 bolt axles you need to be careful about going any deeper than what you already have since the pinion gear gets VERY small at 4.88 and smaller yet with 5.13's and given the fact that you're towing that would put more strain on the gears.

You would not be happy with the results just doing heads for what your complaint is. Gears will make your current problem go away but may create another issue if you explode them shortly after if these are 10 bolt axles.
 
" I too don't know if I should get 4.88's or 5.13's. I have a 700R4 transmission I never tow in Overdrive I leave it in 3rd to tow. "

. which you should.....

would gears be more expensive to have installed (2 sets)than doing a head/manifold job yourself though?
I can install gears myself its not rocket science.
 
Once again, too lazy to go searching but if you have 10 bolt axles you need to be careful about going any deeper than what you already have since the pinion gear gets VERY small at 4.88 and smaller yet with 5.13's and given the fact that you're towing that would put more strain on the gears.

You would not be happy with the results just doing heads for what your complaint is. Gears will make your current problem go away but may create another issue if you explode them shortly after if these are 10 bolt axles.
Actually I already know this which is why I was looking at a different set of heads. :wink1:

Don't know which way I will go yet heads or gears. I may try 4.88s.
 
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