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Which D60f axle shafts are you running?

boz42

boz42

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I broke 3 shafts in my D60 last weekend, so it is time to upgrade to some good axles & joints. I was running new non-necked dana shafts with spicer joints. The joints broke first & took out the yoke ears.

I know this has been covered, but I have not seen it talked about lately & I would like some up to date info. I would like to here from you guys running current stuff that is on the market. What is junk & what is the good stuff?

Pics of my carnage:
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Sounds more like the joints, not the axles are the problem. If a joint explodes it is very common for the ears to get mangled as well, even on the moly shafts. I think your solution is maybe team up some good moly shafts with those CTM u-joints. Or use just a little less skinny pedal!
 
454k30 said:
Sounds more like the joints, not the axles are the problem. If a joint explodes it is very common for the ears to get mangled as well, even on the moly shafts. I think your solution is maybe team up some good moly shafts with those CTM u-joints. Or use just a little less skinny pedal!
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I am well aware of how this damage occurs. I also know that shafts are only as good as there joints & vice-versa. I am wanting to know which brands are good, and which are not. I hear bad things about Yukon, I hear good about Superior. I don't know anybody that owns them & want to hear first hand experience from people that are wheeling these kinds of parts.

As far as the skinny pedal goes I didn't build a 540 cubic inch engine to baby around.
 
I have no experience with fancy axles but wasn't Superior or maybe Alloy USA on eternal back order?
 
The longfield's look good, I am leaning towards those.

I remember one of them being on back order. On a side note I was told yesterday that the guy from Alloy USA left there & started another company, but I can't remember the name. Anyone else have a clue what I am talking about.
 
Chaddy said:
Longfield shafts and joints. Lifetime warranty up to a 44inch tire.
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X2. Even if its just the joints they are insane. I wish I could find the writeup on pirate about the tests that some collage did on strength of all joints. Longfield made the otheres look bad. Im gonna start with thos in some alloy shafts then eventually go to all Longfield.
 
I thought the longfields came together as one unit axles & joints? That is the only way I have found them.
 
I've seen Longfield assemblies (they have a Birfield-style CV joint) take several good beatings in the rocks. Talk to mtnman.
 
The Longfield joints are by far the best bang for the buck, basically the strongest u-joint you can buy at half the price of a CTM.

Yukon shafts in D60's are fine, its the D44 Yukon stuff that has a really bad reputation.

Alloy USA was sold recently, sounds like their old shafts will still be warrantied but future shafts will be produced under another name.

Superior makes good stuff, but at twice the cost of Alloy USA and Yukon.


If you feel like dropping $2K on shafts, nothing will beat the Longfield CV's.
 
By looking at the one picture of the u-joint I'm somewhat suspicious of the condition of them. The one cross looks nasty and rusty...but I know after they break they can get dirt on them. Were the needle bearings still in good shape and full of grease?

Anyway, I bought new non-necked Spicer inners (at the time the only other option was very high dollar chromos, no Yukons or Alloy USA). New Spicer u-joints, and a couple of years later upgraded to Yukon 35-spline stubs. I've had good luck so far on 39.5's but it has an automatic and "only" the 6.2 diesel.

78Buford was running all 35-spline Spicer shafts with Spicer joints for years, 500+ lb-ft big block, 42's, and a very heavy truck. The first issue was the yokes starting to wallow out, then finally broke a 35-spline stub (but the little bearing in the spindle the shaft rides on was trashed, and grooved the stub, which happend to be right where it broke). He now has Yukon inners and outers with, I believe, the Longfield joints. They have been beat pretty bad and still holding up.
 
ok... not too but in but my joints are shot, what are the best ones to buy for the stock axles...? is it better to get greaseable or not...as for strength..?
 
I guess I didn't answer the original question, I'm running newer 35 spline Spicer inners and 35 spline Alloy USA outers. 42" tires, 4000 lb. truck.

I haven't pulled the shafts for this year's maintenance yet but I'm afraid of twisted splines on the inners (I'm not easy on them). The u-joints and yokes have stayed tight on the shafts so far.
 
Looks like your U-joint failure is due to no lube. Even the non greasables you must add lube before assembling them.
 
I run Superiors with Spicer Life joints. I broke a D70 Stub axle, but I think it was less because there was something "Weak" about the stub axle, and more becaus the bearing in the spindle had given up, and caused a heat riser/stress point.

I agree with the Longfields, though. They are the best. I just couldn't justify them when I just needed to get my truck back up and running and I carry a full set of D70 spares anyway.

-Dan
 
4X4HIGH said:
Looks like your U-joint failure is due to no lube. Even the non greasables you must add lube before assembling them.
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Not true at all.

Adding any more grease to non-greasable Spicer joints will blow out the seals, they seal REALLY well and don't require any more grease than they are supplied with.
 
38377k5 said:
Not true at all.

Adding any more grease to non-greasable Spicer joints will blow out the seals, they seal REALLY well and don't require any more grease than they are supplied with.
Click to expand...

Correct. The directions from Spicer state they are pre lubed with the propper amount of lube. DOn't wipe any off, and don't add any.
 
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