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Which is better 6 bolt axle?? Or 8 bolt?? Any why?
- Thread starter Dabbas
- Start date
8 lug is considered stronger and most rear axles are full float. They are harder to break and hold up to abuse better. They are larger and heavier but its generally considered an upgrade.
A lot still run the 1/2 ton 6 lug stuff. I still do, with no issues. But may eventually go 1 Ton for the piece of mind and not worry about breakage on the trail.
Nice looking truck you have there.
Z
A lot still run the 1/2 ton 6 lug stuff. I still do, with no issues. But may eventually go 1 Ton for the piece of mind and not worry about breakage on the trail.
Nice looking truck you have there.
Z
Rockwells are 6 bolt so the amount of lugs isn't really a contributing factor. It's the subsequent strength in the rest of the axle that makes it better
Typically speaking a stronger axle will have more lugs ( or a much larger pattern) to accommodate the added weight rating of said axle.
For our Chevy stuff there are some equals out there, 6 lug and 8 lug 10 bolts (front) and D44s are the same. As are 14 bolt semifloat (9.5" ring gear) 6 and 8 lug. Although the 6 lug semifloats are only found on later Chevys so they tend to be a couple inches wider than an older 8 lug 14 bolt SF
For our Chevy stuff there are some equals out there, 6 lug and 8 lug 10 bolts (front) and D44s are the same. As are 14 bolt semifloat (9.5" ring gear) 6 and 8 lug. Although the 6 lug semifloats are only found on later Chevys so they tend to be a couple inches wider than an older 8 lug 14 bolt SF
There are sometimes tags on one of the diff cover bolts, and sometimes on the glove box there is an option code sheet that may give you your ratio.
If you are going to pull the cover and it still has factory gears they usually have the numbers stamped on them, they won't have the ratio but they will have the number of teeth on the ring gear and the number on the pinion gear, divide those and you get your ratio. You need to count teeth on both the ring gear and the pinion gear
Run what you have till you brake something. Unless you start running big horse power, 6 lug in sand should be fine.
bot0611
1/2 ton status
NICE!!! more pics and specs.
KansasTwister
1/2 ton status
Look at his location guys, not your typical ck5'r.
The half ton (weakest) axles had 6 lug.
Three quarters had 8 lug (mid). Same front axle as a 1/2 ton, and same rear axle as a 1 ton, but front was different from the knuckle out with bigger brakes.
and the strongest were 1 tons, also 8 lug, but easily identifyable because the front axle had 3 U bolts and 2 studs instead of 4 U bolts like 1/2 and 3/4.
Did that help at all? This is just with factory axles.
The half ton (weakest) axles had 6 lug.
Three quarters had 8 lug (mid). Same front axle as a 1/2 ton, and same rear axle as a 1 ton, but front was different from the knuckle out with bigger brakes.
and the strongest were 1 tons, also 8 lug, but easily identifyable because the front axle had 3 U bolts and 2 studs instead of 4 U bolts like 1/2 and 3/4.
Did that help at all? This is just with factory axles.
Saw the location. I have watched videos of some guys over there. I sure do miss the sand.
You sir should take some time and drive up here to see me then, of course wait till I get Hortons suspension semi close to yours. Our dunes are cwazzy big.
Question about determining the gear ratio:
On my 72 C20, I jacked up the rear end, spun the wheels, and counted the driveshaft rotations for one revolution of the rear wheel. This told me I had approximately a 4.10 gear ratio. Later on I verified this when I sanded the surface rust off the tag on the rear end.
Shouldn't this work in this situation? It's a lot easier than counting teeth if you're looking for a quick answer.
On my 72 C20, I jacked up the rear end, spun the wheels, and counted the driveshaft rotations for one revolution of the rear wheel. This told me I had approximately a 4.10 gear ratio. Later on I verified this when I sanded the surface rust off the tag on the rear end.
Shouldn't this work in this situation? It's a lot easier than counting teeth if you're looking for a quick answer.
That is how I have always done it.
Hello Dabbas,
If I gather your query rightly, you meant the "best" as the "best ratio". I will share my experience based on the similar trails we have in our country like that you have in your home-place (noting the difference of the much higher and steeper sand-dunes, softer sand of our local area; being a part of the Empty-Quarter).
For such a Truck and setup, I prefer to use 4:10 ratio; as I tried both for many years; stock (OEM) and the upgraded one (3/4 Ton with 4:10). The latter performs well and much better than the 3:08 one. Further, with 4:10, you will be able to quickly recover the speed and the torque once you roll off a sand dune then go over the next one, one after the other.
I hope this helps!
If I gather your query rightly, you meant the "best" as the "best ratio". I will share my experience based on the similar trails we have in our country like that you have in your home-place (noting the difference of the much higher and steeper sand-dunes, softer sand of our local area; being a part of the Empty-Quarter).
For such a Truck and setup, I prefer to use 4:10 ratio; as I tried both for many years; stock (OEM) and the upgraded one (3/4 Ton with 4:10). The latter performs well and much better than the 3:08 one. Further, with 4:10, you will be able to quickly recover the speed and the torque once you roll off a sand dune then go over the next one, one after the other.
I hope this helps!
The "best" gear ratio depends on many factors - tire size probably being the most important one.
-Tire size
-power band of engine
-transmission ratios (granny gear? overdrive?)
-intended use(s) of truck (highway? mud drags? rock crawling)
-importance of power vs. economy
-cam specs and torque converter stall
Strangely enough, the stock 1/2-ton gears are almost never "best", except that sometimes the best ratio is whatever is already in there - since it's obviously the most cost-effective.
The 4.10 ratio recommended above is a good all-around choice for tires in the 33" range.
-Tire size
-power band of engine
-transmission ratios (granny gear? overdrive?)
-intended use(s) of truck (highway? mud drags? rock crawling)
-importance of power vs. economy
-cam specs and torque converter stall
Strangely enough, the stock 1/2-ton gears are almost never "best", except that sometimes the best ratio is whatever is already in there - since it's obviously the most cost-effective.
The 4.10 ratio recommended above is a good all-around choice for tires in the 33" range.
You are right!! Am terribly sorry ..... I should have qualified my response by clarifying those valid points that you just mentioned.
To make more sense, I considered the "4:10" working as the best ratio "for me and my spefici application"; based on the following basis (as currently per my Truck's setup):
-Tire size (33")
-power band of engine (stock 8.1 range, where is fair all around. I tried the same ratio with other two engines: 1996 7.4 "with Carb not EFI, and, 2005 6.0L Esc.Engine).
-transmission ratios (NVG 4500 5-speed, yes with "overdrive").
-intended use(s) of truck (highway-cum-sand trails)
-importance of power vs. economy ("Power" with a conservative look at economy).
-cam specs and torque converter stall (OEM and 'n/a' for the TC, being manual gear).
Hope it's clearer by now.
To make more sense, I considered the "4:10" working as the best ratio "for me and my spefici application"; based on the following basis (as currently per my Truck's setup):
-Tire size (33")
-power band of engine (stock 8.1 range, where is fair all around. I tried the same ratio with other two engines: 1996 7.4 "with Carb not EFI, and, 2005 6.0L Esc.Engine).
-transmission ratios (NVG 4500 5-speed, yes with "overdrive").
-intended use(s) of truck (highway-cum-sand trails)
-importance of power vs. economy ("Power" with a conservative look at economy).
-cam specs and torque converter stall (OEM and 'n/a' for the TC, being manual gear).
Hope it's clearer by now.
What do u mean?
