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Which paint for leaf spring?

Emmettology 101

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Do you guys use normal rattle can primer and paint for leaf springs? Or is there a paint out there desinged to work with the flex?

:D
 
Winterizing Undercoat paint works wonders on flexy parts... my whole undercarriage is covered in it, and has yet to crack..
 
There is a rattle can paint that has teflon in it. My brother used it on his springs and I believe it made a difference. As far as longevity of it I couldn't say. His truck was never completed. :frown1:
 
I used an epoxy enamel of my 57" Ford springs 3 years ago. They have been flexed into reverse arch more times than I can count and the paint hasn't chipped or flaked at all. It's tough as nails, and smooth enough that the springs don't bind against each other.

Rene
 
Thanks all!


tRustyK5 said:
I used an epoxy enamel of my 57" Ford springs 3 years ago. They have been flexed into reverse arch more times than I can count and the paint hasn't chipped or flaked at all. It's tough as nails, and smooth enough that the springs don't bind against each other.

Rene

Rene - did you clean the springs to bare metal? And did you use a primer or just the paint? :D Thanks.
 
Krylon Rust Tough...

LOL....You're not building a show rig or are you??? ;)
 
Like Kert said, look for the paint with Teflon in it. I'm gonna tear down my 52s, sandblast them then coat them with that stuff.
 
Por-15??

I never tried it on springs except for coil springs ,but POR-15 would probably work good on leaf springs too--but you would be wise to topcoat it with another paint,it has no UV resistance and fades to flat black under sunlight..

Other than that,maybe some kind of polyurethane enamel like Dupont Imron would work--I see fleets of cement mixer trucks painted 10+ years ago with that stuff,and steam cleaned every week that still look like new!.. :crazy:
 
I'm having good luck with Rustoleum "Hammered" paint so far. It seems to be pretty durable compared to regular Rustoleum and Krylon. It's about $4.50/can though. I haven't checked yet but I'm pretty sure it held up to brake fluid... I know the Krylon stuff I used just melted off and it had a couple weeks longer curing time.

I wirewheeled my leaves, cleaned them with brake cleaner, then put the "hammered" paint on them.
 
graphite-impregnated rattle can paint was recommended in one of the primedia mags recently. I just use the cheapest rattle-can primer and paint I have laying around. I use UHMW-PE sheets between my leafs... less friction than any paint will ever give ya. More durable too.

j
 
I am using the Hammered Rustoleum on the frame. Wish it was a little blacker... Maybe I'll use it on the springs too.. HAd it on my rockstomper Rock rod and it held up great....

Will be using teflon pads in between my leafs. :thumb:
 
teflon isn't the best material for this application... thats why the factory teflon pads are usually trashed and people replace them. UHMW-PE has waaay better impact/abrasion resistance. I completely cover the entire length of the leaf with it, thats why I don't care about $pendy paint to reduce bind. ;) more on this junk and its tech specs coming up in my mother-of-all 52" spring swap writeup...

j
 
jekbrown said:
teflon isn't the best material for this application... thats why the factory teflon pads are usually trashed and people replace them. UHMW-PE has waaay better impact/abrasion resistance. I completely cover the entire length of the leaf with it, thats why I don't care about $pendy paint to reduce bind. ;) more on this junk and its tech specs coming up in my mother-of-all 52" spring swap writeup...

j


Hmmm... UHMW-PE would be cheaper too. What thickness are you using?
 
0.030"-0.060". I get the tape and just remove the sticky stuff.

j
 
I think 3M VHB tape would hold onto PE, stuff is hard to remove from anything else. Heck, million dollar RV sides are bonded on with it only. McMaster has it.

The graphite and moly containing paints have been a disappointment to me. They don't inhibit rust and they don't seem to stay on very long either.

MISF used POR-15 on his leaf springs. Great for rust, mediocre for friction.

I wouldn't advise sandblasting leaves. Sand has sharp edges so it's the reverse of shotpeening which is not a good thing. Use a stripper instead. Two if you can get 'em w/o the tassels. Er, wait.......
 
Im not a media-blasting guru, but there are less abrasive medias other than sand that you can get/use right? I agree that anything that is gonna weaken the material in the spring wouldn't be a great idea...

j
 

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