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Which Saw would You Use?

nvrenuf

nvrenuf

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I need some wedges (basically angled zero rates) and haven’t found a good source to make them so I’m probably going to do it myself.

I’ve found some 1.5”x2” aluminum stock to use so I just need something to cut them. For those that have done similar work, which type of saw would work best?

I need to turn the bar stock on it’s side to cut it so I want to make sure the saw is capable of the cut plus I want be careful not to turn it into a bullet while cutting it.

These may/may not be the actual saws I buy, just examples. I’m not looking to invest more than $200 in the saw because I’ll probably hardly ever use it and I don’t have room to store a bigger (used) legit band saw.


 
nvrenuf said:
I need some wedges (basically angled zero rates) and haven’t found a good source to make them so I’m probably going to do it myself.

I’ve found some 1.5”x2” aluminum stock to use so I just need something to cut them. For those that have done similar work, which type of saw would work best?

I need to turn the bar stock on it’s side to cut it so I want to make sure the saw is capable of the cut plus I want be careful not to turn it into a bullet while cutting it.

These may/may not be the actual saws I buy, just examples. I’m not looking to invest more than $200 in the saw because I’ll probably hardly ever use it and I don’t have room to store a bigger (used) legit band saw.


Click to expand...
I use the first kind, I have a stationary one with taller band.
The miter saw could work if you get the proper blades for aluminum but a little more dangerous for what you plan on doing
 
I’ve been looking hard at the top one. It’s supposed to turn at an angle so I’m hoping there’s enough adjustment vs material in the clamp to hold it well enough.
 
83ChevyK5Blazer said:
How much angle are you putting in?
Click to expand...

I have put in the math time to know the degrees of angle but the wedge needs to be 1-1/8” thick down to 3/4”. These will be crossmember spacers, not anything that would affect drivetrain geometry.
 
I’d think sanding off 3/8” would take forever. I’ve got to make 4 blocks as described and another 4 blocks similarly angled but thinner for the hardware to sit flat on the top of the frame.
 
I have stacked 1/8" thick pieces, each one shorter, then welded the sides. Welded the face joints and ran a flap disk over them.
 
@Blue85 I want to install a factory crossmember further back on the frame than ever intended (directly under the tcase rear yoke), the spot I want has a downward curve and I want the crossmember to be on the same plane as the trans crossmember so I can run a skid plate between them. The shape of the stock crossmember doesn’t easily allow a cut and turn so solid shims seems like the “easy” solution.

See the wood wedge I mocked up in the pic.

IMG_9339.jpeg

IMG_9337.jpeg
 
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You'll need a stand up style bandsaw to cut those
You can use the portaband with the stand that holds em upright,
Or, I've actually put my handle in the vise and done it, but that was for sheet metal.

A horizontal band or chop saw would be dangerous for a wedge like that
 
@shady I was thinking that the vertical saw would be dangerous, you never see them with clamps or guides. It seems like the vertical type would be the one most likely to create a bullet.
 
No. When you want to cut a wedge like that, you mark it on a side, stand it up and you can control the angle as you push through.
With a horizontal, the only way to get the angle you need, means putting it in with almost no material being clamped.
A vertical band saw will almost NEVER shoot a piece out anywhere. The most it'll do is maybe suck a small piece down in it and jam the blade up. That's about it.
 
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Mark it on the side of your stock(blue). And use the end (yellow) as your handle/guide bar to keep your fingers back.
Push through the blade (green), and cut to length after your done.

Safest way to cut a long wedge like that.Screenshot_20260427-085445~4.jpg
 
Ok I see. I was thinking I’d have to get a piece of stock maybe twice as big as I needed to clamp it in a horizontal saw.
 
I don't see how you can expect to cut them accurately with a saw alone.

Give me the missing dimensions and I can get you a quote in less than an hour. Hole spacing and bolt size. Then, do you want aluminum, steel, or stainless? Painted 1018 steel would be my choice to keep it cheaper. Aluminum is more likely to crack and split from fatigue than steel or stainless.

Screenshot_20260429_220706_Samsung Notes.jpg
 
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kennyw said:
I don't see how you can expect to cut them accurately with a saw alone.
Click to expand...

It’s just a last ditch idea, I posted a thread and googled until I was tired but never found a source that was willing to make them.

This is my drawing with dims. With regards to materials, these are just a crossmember spacer so steel is fine.

Added detail, my intention was to use a slightly thicker material to create a similarly angled but thinner leftover to use on the top side of the frame lip to keep the hardware straight. Since the wedge is 1-1/8 on the thick end I was going to use 1-1/4”+ to created the thinner leftover and achieve a 2 for 1 type benefit of the cut. I don't think there’s enough room between the frame and body to use the thick wedge plus a nut and few threads.

I’ll need 4 thick and 4 thin wedges.

IMG_9442.jpeg

IMG_9442.jpeg
 
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