CK5
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Which truck?

Personally I'd take the '68 K20,but both those trucks are not great for commuting ,they are both more of the "war wagon" type truck with a stiff ride ,low gearing,and will wear on your nerves after awhile..the '68 would make a good work truck,but no P/S or brakes wont make it good to tow with..and may even make daily driving risky,seeing how most vehicles have 4 wheel power disc brakes and you wont..
You'll need to keep a good distance behind other vehicles..

The M1008 might have the D60 and get slightly better mpg,but it is still a military truck..if you dont mind driving something that reminds of a deuce and a half daily,it would be OK,but to me,they are overpriced--half the value is in the front axle ,T-case and Th400--I'm not so sure they had any beefier frames than a civilian K5 had..if the M1008 was priced the same as the '68 is,it would be a better all around driver,but it isn't a pickup truck either...some things just cant be hauled in a K5 like a pickup..(Quads,Fridges,Stoves,Lumber,garden tractors,etc)..

I've seen a 1008 frame in a truck that had the bed pulled off and they are most definitely beefier than a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck.

Not sure if it's beefier than a K30 though.
 
Get a project truck for fun and hauling stuff, then get an econo-box for commuting. Could almost get both for $5k. The $1k fuel saving/year goes into the truck build.
 
I have a '95 Mazda B3000(Ranger) for my "work" truck and I hate driving it. I'd rather DD my crew cab big block dually C30 or my blazer or my cummins swapped '90 F350 any day over the Mazda. I will NEVER own a front wheel drive car, can't stand them no matter what MPG they get. I will take any truck any day over a car. If I could I would drive a truck on 44s every day. Only car I wouldn't mind would be a G body monte carlo or something that is rear wheel drive and older. Oh and my commute is only 14 miles each way with very little traffic and about an 800 ft gain in elevation and a top speed limit of 55 mph, hence the reason the gutless Mazda sucks. My 6.2L K5 gets 17 mpg with 35s and 4:10 gears. I'd definitely get the 1008 or a late 90s Chevy truck.
 
I have seriously considered not setting up the 73 C10 for my son but use it for a commuter for me instead. :whistle: Just something I like about driving an older vehicle. I would drive my 66 far more often if I wasn't trying to limit the miles - for both insurance and preservation purposes.
 
Its real easy to unscrew the speedo cable on the '66!...:whistle:..

While I like old vehicles,I do like power steering and brakes too,(though there are 2 less things to give grief if the vehicle lacks them)..
I like the simplicity and ease of repairs on old trucks,and they usually don't need to be fixed all that often once you get things roadworthy..

When I had my '72 Chevelle 4x4 wagon,it had a Rockwell t-case and at first the whining gears sounded cool,much like a 6-71 blower,but it got tiring on a trip...

I've ridden in and drove a few early 60's Suburban 4x4's and they too are noisy,ride rough,and are rather cumbersome to park,especially a panel truck..but they look so cool,it makes up for all the minuses...

One truck I miss is the '79 C10 "Bonanza" I had...it started off with its original 250 six and a TH350,but after that lost the #6 piston to preignition,I put a 305 in it...which was "eh",as far as improvement..

But that truck rode nice,was geared for the highway,cruised nicely at 65 mph with no strain or screaming,and got 16 mpg,just as good on fuel as the 6.2 in my K2500...and it was quiet,comfortable,had great heat--hardly any rot for a new england truck when I got it too...if I saw one like it for around $1000 or less I'd buy it..so far only a few like it have come up for sale,and the price is triple that at least..
 
Really appreciate all the comments and advice! After debating in my head I think I may get the M1008. I realize its not as comfortable as a newer truck but I've always wanted to own one. My plans are to make it nicer to drive. Adding some softer 4" springs, stereo, and a few other things. Eventually swapping the engine for something more powerful but thats next year after the K5 is up and running. Going there tomorrow to pick it up and the seller is holding it for me until then. The price $3k and you can't really beat that for a rust free truck with 50k miles.

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This is a great driver. 37s make it highwayable but it neeeeeeds floor and firewall insulation. That will help a ton. The noise level is very high but I can barely hear it over my smile. 4" lift and 37s with a drop pitman arm. Great combination.

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Nice! Yep, have some lizard skin noise stuff I never used and was going to put it on the floor and I'll see what I can do about the firewall. Is that a 6" lift?
 
That's a 4 inch and 37s. Little trimming. But cucv have a huge fuel filler. Note the fuel spilled in the pic you have. You gotta stand there and hold the filler nozzle. Can't leave it.

That one looks really nice and not beat too bad. Look into peel and seal and frost king stick on insulation. Works really well.
 
x2 on the 4 inch lift and trim. you can fit 38s . I would buy the m1008. then keep a look out for a banks turbo kit and a 700r4 for the overdrive gear. I daily drove/wheeled a CUCV blazer like that for years
 
I see that the truck is here on the western slope. Are you as Well?
Post more pics when you get It!
 
I'm in Denver but traveling to GJ to pick this up. Will do!
 
I know this isn't in the cards but through this whole thread I kept waiting for the: Man, it would be so cool to buy both and cannibalize the '86 to build the '68 with. Cuz man, that would be cool
 
Looking for something under under $5k. I'll be driving 15 miles side streets to work and back so not a long commute. What would you choose?

68 K20 4x4 $2500
Cons: 4 speed, rockwell tcase issues, rust on rockers and drivers floor, no PS, No power brakes
Pros: Collectable, more valuable over time, newer 350 crate

86 M1008 4x4 (K30) $3750
Cons: Low HP Diesel, needs interior TLC
Pros: Dana 60 front, no rust, nice shape

Or... should I just get something newer with AC, cruise, nicer interior, smoother ride, etc. This is going to be my daily but wife will have nice car for long trips.
I have a 67 c20 converting it to a K10 . Almost done. Several people have told me this has gone from a $5000. investment to a $12000.
Personally, if it were me, I'd go with the K20. 67-72s are getting so hard to find that people are settling for the 73-87 square bodies. Those will never have the classic look of the 67-72s regardless of condition.
I also have a 67 stepside short bed toy, and a 69 c20.
 
I like the CUCV idea as well, and I will echo @Blazooki in keeping an eye out for a turbo. It would take away most of your power issues and still retain good mpg’s.
 
I got on GOV Planet right after I read this thread and ObijuanK5 posted his pic..got me all dreamy. found a m1008 in Layton UT. right down the street from my brother, but the fan is on the front seat and the rear driveshaft is bent. they didnt start it and thats a.little too much for risk for a $1500 starting bid.
 
I got on GOV Planet right after I read this thread and ObijuanK5 posted his pic..got me all dreamy. found a m1008 in Layton UT. right down the street from my brother, but the fan is on the front seat and the rear driveshaft is bent. they didnt start it and thats a.little too much for risk for a $1500 starting bid.

Axles are worth more than 1500 here
 
I know this isn't in the cards but through this whole thread I kept waiting for the: Man, it would be so cool to buy both and cannibalize the '86 to build the '68 with. Cuz man, that would be cool
Unless if the M1008 was trashed like beyond repair, it would be tough to cannibalize it just for the axles. The 68 K20 actually has a stout rear axle and 4.56 gears. I think the guy sold it anyways since he never called me back.

I have a 67 c20 converting it to a K10 . Almost done. Several people have told me this has gone from a $5000. investment to a $12000.
Personally, if it were me, I'd go with the K20. 67-72s are getting so hard to find that people are settling for the 73-87 square bodies. Those will never have the classic look of the 67-72s regardless of condition.
I also have a 67 stepside short bed toy, and a 69 c20.
I agree the 68 would be worth more money in fixed up state but I was little worried about how far the rust had spread in the cab. Along with having to convert it to power steering and power brakes. Not hard, just time consuming and I need to stay focused on the K5. I did find another 68 K20 in Fruita, CO but still needed lots of work.

I like the CUCV idea as well, and I will echo @Blazooki in keeping an eye out for a turbo. It would take away most of your power issues and still retain good mpg’s.
I don't think they ever offered turbos on these trucks unless you're talking about adding the 6.5 turbo. Researched that and you need to keep the boost to a minimum since the pistons are pretty week. I read about 200-220hp max, still good torque though.

I got on GOV Planet right after I read this thread and ObijuanK5 posted his pic..got me all dreamy. found a m1008 in Layton UT. right down the street from my brother, but the fan is on the front seat and the rear driveshaft is bent. they didnt start it and thats a.little too much for risk for a $1500 starting bid.
They are out there but getting hard to find. I saw that one too and its worth 1500 in a non running state, axles alone are worth that. It will probably go for more but you never know. Some people are starting to ask a good amount for them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Chevr...ash=item4d6ac1dadf:g:ZjUAAOSwBjdZ8PZN&vxp=mtr

So anyway.... I got the M1008. That sucker BARELY fit on the uhaul trailer. Front tires with the aftermarket low offset wheels were a bit too wide but I managed to squeeze them in the rails. Back tires barely fit from the edge. Loaded the extra tires and some other things in the back of the 1008. Very bad idea. Had horrible trailer sway above 55mph and I about crapped my pants. Loaded the tires and stuff in the Dodge tow vehicle and all was good.

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Same advice you’ve gotten but those trucks really need 4” on 37”s. It’s perfect for the gearing. Cheap and easy to do and puts the engine right in its happy zone for cruising.
 
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