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White Elephant 01 8.1 burb.

Well the ac seems to be working better, only thing I did to it today was physically work the blend door with actuator removed, an insulate the the pipe between evaporator and orifice tube.
The rear will hurt your hand within 30-45 seconds the front maybe 1 min to 1 min 30 for same feeling. My thermometer is is the 77 and it is in the air atm.

Didn't get anywhere with reverse light circuit. I attempted to unplug the neutral safety switch only ended up damaging the plug. More Google Fu on that one.
 
My 5.3L trucks have electric fans and the A/C works better sitting still than the 8.1L truck with mechanical fan. Going down the road, they all cool fine, but our hot weather is like 90 degrees. I do remember the clutch fan back with the 6.0 was very quiet and you could feel the cabin warm up a bit when sitting still. After I swapped to a HD clutch I can hear the fan even on cold starts and the A/C is better.
 
Have you looked for added/modified trailer wiring? We all know previous owners commit wiring atrocities.
 
Yeah I have even repaired it once and redid it once. I double checked my work. Everything looks good. The trailer plug has it's own fuse, which is good.
There was an aftermarket electric trailer break controller installed. While check the trailer plug I noticed the trailer break signal wire was always powered.
I unplugged the controller, it solved that issue. Last thing I did before cleaning up to go in for the night. Idk if a trailer break controller would have any effect on reverse light circuit
 
Found a wiring diagram on Autozone's site.
Show rear lamp junction block, I have looked for it at the rear not seeing it.
I was suspicious of the range selector switch(neutral safety), but after seeing the wiring diagram my short is after the switch. I am checking with an ohm meter after the 15a fuse in the under hood electrical center.
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Am not a happy camper, one of the Dorman quick connect is leaking. Fortunately it is a straight, and won't be difficult to replace. It's the idea and draining/saving the coolant. Sometimes Dorman is a total let down, i should have learned by now.

Short road test to home depot 10 miles round trip. 88 and 89° by truck outside temp gauge. Rear ac ice F'n cold, front got cold but not freeze your butt cold. Not much faith that at 115 it will be up to snuff. That was rolling 55-60 down the highway
 
Wes Harden said:
It is a single zone in front.
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Does this mean there is only one actuator? All of mine are split and each zone is fed through 1/2 of the evaporator. It's a quick way to tell when the charge is low - DS is not as cold as PS.
Wes Harden said:
Rear ac ice F'n cold, front got cold but not freeze your butt cold. Not much faith that at 115 it will be up to snuff. That was rolling 55-60 down the highway
Click to expand...
There's really no reason for the rear to be colder. Usually you need a good charge before the rear works much at all. Could be the VoV doesn't work right with a dual system? Could be you're leaking some air through the heater core. Isn't there a way to disconnect the heater core quick connects and loop it there just to check?
 
So my daughter's car belt tensioner failed catastrophically destroyed the radiator.
So I left for Mesa this morning. 1st excessive heat warning of the year. About 100 miles into trip front air starts blowing a little warm, rear air still cold. 70 miles further on rear is no longer cold.
Stop a Costco in Tempe for gas and a few groceries. Check the ac compressor with air on clutch not turning and looks melty. Looks like I get to put a compressor on the white elephant.
Got a hotel for the night gonna leave at O dark thirty.
 
Well been a toasty afternoon, got the U-Haul car trailer in Tempe, picked up car in Mesa. Near as I can tell the belt tensioner came loose, which has the power steering pump bolted to it, broke both fasteners holding pump on tensioner, with belt now loose the car over heated and the plastic radiator tanks cracked.
The burb now has the front pass window acting up, fortunately it is in the full up position, Ima gonna leave it up. I was inspecting the ac compressor, to order parts, after checking into my hotel. Smelled coolant, has been running a rock solid 205 all day long, even towing the Honda around @15+ miles in 110° heat.
IMG_20230630_192641.jpg

Appears to be the hose, I am hoping the clamp needs tightened, if that is the case it's my bad I did those hoses.
Will check in the early morning hope to pull out before 5 am.

The good news RockAuto has compressor kits on sale. I have a Four Seasons compressor with kit, and an off brand condenser on the way, along with a bunch of Honda parts.
Going to hit every bolt I can get to on this Honda, the last time I saw it, Oct 22, there were a few missing fasteners loose fasteners underneath I hit a bunch but I guess not enough. 77 Burb is on the lift, I might be able to get together enought to get the Honda on the lift, I heard a front end clunk when diving it out of the complex to get n the trailer.
 
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Up here in the north east this shit always happens in January when it’s -30. Stuff is fine when you park it warm, come out in the morning and you have leaks, clunks, bangs etc, then you can’t feel your fingers working on it
 
Heat doesn't bother me, esp if I can get it in my shop. 4 tons of AC for 1300sqf

Made it home unloaded and dropped trailer all before 9:30 am.
Phoenix was 84-86 @4:30 am, out in middle of no ware west I10 was 73 at 5:30. Big cities keep the heat.
 
Got the a/c done today. New compressor, accumulator, condenser, and orifice tube. I probably could have just done the clutch. The clutch rubber melted out. System still had a good charge. No debris in the orifice tube I removed. Ice cold in the cab, but it was only 100ish out side, when I went for road test.
 
Wes Harden said:
Got the a/c done today. New compressor, accumulator, condenser, and orifice tube. I probably could have just done the clutch. The clutch rubber melted out. System still had a good charge. No debris in the orifice tube I removed. Ice cold in the cab, but it was only 100ish out side, when I went for road test.
Click to expand...
Ice cold air is a wonderful thing.
 
A little late to this thread, but my G8 has one of those rubber BB's instead of an actual shrader. Started leaking a while back. There is a brass plug you can put in there -wrapped w/ a little teflon. Mines held a while now.
 
I am happy with the new high side line with real shrader.
What is the consensus cause of the clutch burning up. Low gas, high cycle rate? To much heat ?
Four seasons trying to sell one of these https://www.4s.com/en/marketing/the-deslugger with this new compressor. supposed to stop the compressor from hyrolocking and exploding. Is that a thing ?
 
The only time I’ve see slugging is when someone charges with liquid at the compressor (and this is on bus systems with big compressors) but it can explode the compressor in grand fashion. I suppose on a low mounted compressor I can see how it could happen. Really anytime you flood a compressor with liquid refrigerant it’s a possibility.
 
Why would oil pool in a compressor that's at the top of the accessory mount?
 
Sorry, I confused the 2 burbs of @Wes Harden :blush:. I have 3 trucks with this setup, so I'm familiar.

That said, I've charged all of these trucks and never had a problem. How have millions of them gone 100's of thousands of miles? I'm with @Chickntrk, you would almost have to be charging with liquid and rather quickly for it to go backwards into the compressor. I HAVE charged these systems with liquid, but using a can-tap, so it's not super fast. However, there is a lot less hydrocarbon in the system than there would be with a hydrofluorocarbon like R-134.

@Wes Harden, does the compressor still turn freely? My first guess on clutch failure wouldn't be a locked up compressor, but weak wiring to the coil or too much gap (or it was just a dud). I don't think there's much you can do to make it cycle less, other than make sure the refrigerant level is OK. Actually with the weather you've had out there, the mystery is how there's anything under the hood that's not melted.
 
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