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Mine does this all the time, but i have over 215k miles on mine, how many miles are on yours? If it goes away after awhile, it's just the tyical valve seals on the heads, they are notorious for this on Chevys.
Mine does the same thing....134K also...long as it passes Inspection, it'll wait until I decide to drop in a new crate motor...ain't the least bit concerned about it...I use less than half quart on a 1400 mile road trip (runnin' 75-80)...
Typical GM problem. The valve stem seals get brittle and let oil leak past. When parked overnight, enough oil leaks past them to leave a good film on the valves. It gets burned off on startup and gives you that nice blue puff. But it isn't much oil, so it will take a very long time to see it on the dipstick. (A very little bit of oil makes quite a bit of smoke!) New seals cost around $15, but they're a pain in the a$$ to change on a TBI engine 'cause some a$$hat "engineer" at GM designed the serpentine style accessory brackets so that they have to be unbolted from the front of the engine before you can remove the valve covers. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif Once you're inside, you can change all the seals pretty easy. I swapped the seals on one rig and now I just ignore the puff from the others... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
some people are anti- Maxlife, but after I switched to Valvoline Maxlife the puffing went away. I run 10w40 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter. Very little puffing these days /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
Geez, if i run 10/40 or 10/30, i will be adding oil every other day just to top it off, as it is between my 2500 mile oil changes, i usually will put in 2 qts between changes.
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some people are anti- Maxlife, but after I switched to Valvoline Maxlife the puffing went away. I run 10w40 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter. Very little puffing these days /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
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I tried that stuff...
I it took a while to work...
At first I was saying... "It's a miracle!!!"
"I'm not seeing any smoke!!!"..
But...I checked the oil level..and found I had to add 4 qts.. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
I actually burn less oil with regular 1040w...
Personally I think your better off using 1030-1040w...
and adding some Lucas.... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
It should pass for many years to come, even with the bad valve stem seals. They typically don't let much oil get past while the engine is running. Most of it leaks down while the rig is parked. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
My '90 passed the sniffer, but failed the visual for "visible smoke" because at 2,500 RPM the tailpipe looked like an old mosquito fogger! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif The rings are shot...
Uhm white smoke and everyone says oil? Oil is blue smoke, white is water or coolant. It is normal for a vehicle to blow white smoke when it is first started, as long as it goes away. Has to do with condesation in the exhaust system as it cools (may notice some cars drip water out the exhaust)
Blue smoke - oil
White smoke - coolant
black smoke - Rich
White,,,,blue,,,ya'll are crazy, it all looks the same to me, white, i never understood the "blue smoke" theory, there is no blue in the smoke, if it's water, it's steam coming out, not smoke, steam goes away after a few seconds of the exiting of the tail pipe, smoke lingers around and smokes up the neighborhood.
Yes, cars will blow out some steam if it is cool outside and the engine is warming up, but the "puff" we're talking about here occurs immediately after startup and only lasts about 1/2 second. There is a very noticeable difference between the two.
Techically if 100 % COMBUSTION were to occur , the exhaust would be water and extra oxygen . But as it is some vehicles ( watch when you are in rush hour newer vehicles ) drip some water from the tailpipe . /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif