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Who has clocked their t-case up to be level with the frame? Howd u do it?

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dirtwarrior17

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My tcase skidplate is getting pretty worn out so im gonna try and clock it up to be level with the frame before i punch a whole in the skidplate. I have a 6 inch with 35's but still scrape on gnarly hills and decents.

Somebody has to have done this..... If not then how would you go about it?

I was gonna look into getting a custom crossmember made so i can just rotate it up to tuck up to the body as close as i can then get my driveshaft lengthened again. Theres mad space ... don't know what chevy was thinkin. Probably trying to reduce the driveshaft angle.
 
u will need a clocking ring to go between your t-case adapter & your t-case. depending on which case u have depends on if anyone even makes one. most people that go for the flat belly do it w/ a custom rotation doubler.

modifing the t-case crossmember alone will not get u were u want to be.
 
Here is what I did with my 208. I bought the clocking ring from DP90K5 and then raised my drivetrain up another couple of inches after I fully clocked the 208 to obtain my flat belly.



aah.sized.jpg


Here Is the link to the rest of my pictures.http://www.socalbigdawgs.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album56
 
here is the crossmember i built
581954_34_full.jpg

just 1.5" tube with angle iron on the ends with 1/4" gussets and mount plate.

i may make a skid plate like esteban, not sure yet. the main thing is the frame is shaped differently on a longbed truck and would be a little harder to do.
 
do you have a write up somewhere on what exactly you did and what clearance issues you ran into? i'll probably go with a 1in body lift also, it's needed from what i've read, do you have a body lift?
 
emoo99 said:
do you have a write up somewhere on what exactly you did and what clearance issues you ran into? i'll probably go with a 1in body lift also, it's needed from what i've read, do you have a body lift?
Click to expand...

I never did a write up on it. BUt you can see alot from the pics. I clocked the t-case up as high as it would go. Then I actually raised the rear of the t-case up about another 2 inches to get it completely above the frame rails. Then I just built the crossmember and plate the entire thing. The front drivshaft needed to get extended and I ground down all the stops on it so it would operate at a more extreme angle. On the rear driveshaft, it is actually a little short but hasn't given me problems yet.

I routed the exhaust stright back from both sides and then crossed over from the passenger to the drivers and then into a single muffler. Only problem I have had with this is that when the t-case rear seal leaks it drops right on top of the crossover pipe and smokes like crazy. I will be fixing this by running dul mufflers out the back and doing a crossover pipe in front of the t-case.

I run a 2 inch body lift and even with that i had to cut a hole in the floor to keep the t-case from rubbing it. But thatis because I raised it the additional 2 inches. If you go with just the clocking and leaving everything else in the same spot you shouldn't have to cut the floor.

The plate is 3/8 diamond plate that I put the smooth side down.
 
Without the body lift can you get it far enoughed up there to bolt a skidplate up... or do you have to cut some ****. where does the whole come up in the cab?
 
I did the same thing using a Doubler t-case. I know its not your application at the moment, but thought I would chime in.

My Crossmember is similar to Esteban's.

I clocked my NP203 upside down and the NP205 is clocked up to where the input is level with front output.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is you will have to modify your fill plug to adjust the oil level after it is clocked. I used a cast iron 90° ell and a 3" pipe nipple with a cap on top. This adjusted my level up by simple hydraulics.

I am in the middle of a rebuid of my offroad rig so I have a new idea I will try. I am purchasing two NPT to 6 AN 90°s and two 6 AN tube fittings and some oil-proof clear tubing and installing a site port just like an Atlas. This way I can keep an eye on the fluid level. I will do this on my NP203 as well. This requires some drilling and tapping of the casting for the upper fittings. I will post up pics here real soon.
 
do you drive this thing on the street? or is it a trail only vehicle now. im wondering about driveline vibes with such steep angles. what size lift u got?
 
The hole came out just to the rear and inside of the passenger seat mount. I can take a pic for you if you'd like. I think I am going to cut out a larger hole and use some thin metal to make a cover for it. My seats no longer bolt to the floor so that's an opition for me.


I don't think you can raise the t-case further then the second setting with out a body lift. Unless of course you cut more of the flor out.

I drive it occasionally on the street, but I get such a bad vibe from my wheels and tirss that I can't tell if my drivelines are vibing or not.

Kyle89K5 was one of the first to do this to his and he drives it on the street daily with no problems.
 
Does anyone make a clocking ring for a 241? What if a guy were to get an atlas? Those have many different holes for your choice of mounting right?
 
I want to get the full skidplate setup but can't put a body lift on right now. Probably just clock it as far as i can then worry about gettin the crossmember and skidplate.
 
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