CK5
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Who has done the disc brake conversion on their 14 bolt
- Thread starter elyon
- Start date
Did they supply the grade 8 bolts too?
I think they did actually, anything worth doing is worth overdoing right?
@LNielson put in a ball valve for you rear brakes I have one it works great. Bought it from ORD then had new lines built so I could just put in the same place as a old school trailer brake I had.
My brakes work fine too. Stock MC, stock front Dana 60 HP brakes they are dual piston, rear - front 3/4 ton calipers and pads mid 80's Chevy or so.
My brakes work fine too. Stock MC, stock front Dana 60 HP brakes they are dual piston, rear - front 3/4 ton calipers and pads mid 80's Chevy or so.
That looks like a good setup. So it looks like you just made a big loop in the rear circuit coming right off the master through that ball valve, am I seeing that right? What did you use for those flex hoses?
i have never wanted to play with the setting after i found the sweet spot . so to keep it simple stupid i just leave it under the hood at the master with a basic inline like this or the full new unit like this .
inline https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905/overview/
full replacement https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3906/overview/
they both look exactly like willwood but say summit .
inline https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905/overview/
full replacement https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3906/overview/
they both look exactly like willwood but say summit .
I did just that, had the hoses built at Evco
Ive caked mine with mud so many times...
So these valves ( im clueless and been searching for hrs)... for disc/drum send different pressure to front and rear...disc/disc like this true it up? Maybe thats what i need.
After swamping my truck i ran into many issues. Replaced calipers/rotors..turns out my issue was front brake lines. No more death trap darting right towards a pole now.
Today i was testing my brakes...back locked and felt like front had nothing. Long story short i replaced brass washers on calipers to hoses ( yes i used new ones from calipers). Now the truck stops again. Like it used too.. can loxk the back and feel the front pull but low squishy pedal and has been on my list to look at.
I thought of putting the adjustable piece in the front line to make more pressure. Is that a good thing to do or best to replace portioning valve? Ive got everything stock to a 78 k20 camper special that had ď44-disc/14bff-drum and now d60-disc / 14bff-caddy calipers
So ive got $ in amazon.. what would it hurt to replace my 1978 valve with this?
https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Propo...0624627&s=gateway&sprefix=gm+disc/disc&sr=8-8
https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Propo...0624627&s=gateway&sprefix=gm+disc/disc&sr=8-8
The 79-85 Cadillac,which is disc front and rear, has a proportioning valve that looks
just like the what we have in our trucks. It has all the same line sizes and in the same place.
I would guess that the 78 and under would have the same, being disc front and rear. If it works
for Cadillac from the factory, should work. It is what I am using.
just like the what we have in our trucks. It has all the same line sizes and in the same place.
I would guess that the 78 and under would have the same, being disc front and rear. If it works
for Cadillac from the factory, should work. It is what I am using.
Looks just like the one I got from Dealer.
Im using 76 caddy calipers. Caddy used thick rotors from 76-78 then went to thin style in 79...if memory serves me right
That be correct. I have the later as It was Warn gave me brackets for on my full float.
Used the thin and 1989 K1500 truck front rotor.
Used the thin and 1989 K1500 truck front rotor.
And i bought azz-kickin kit which is gone now.. love the kit and love the disc swap. Pads are cheap so im gonna change pads and learned how to set the wbrake... but want to get this done first.
I just did a similar one. Havent't driven it yet. Prolly be a couple months still.
which is how the main disc pads are adjusted. You to have use
the parking brake to keep the pads adjusted. Also you if your brackets
are like most, you will have to unbolt calipers to bleed them.
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Yup thats the one. Simple theory.. hand tighten... remove lever and see if it can catch a new angle. If so your good.
Fyi i gotta mount my cables lol..ummm its bad
See it? Lol
Yeah its cold so i dont wanna change mine
The biggest problem is not using the parking brake as it is
what keeps it in adjustment and working right. The other is
getting the air out of caliper if it is not straight up on bleeding.
I have a spare set of spring and brackets for the later model.
I don't know if they will fit the earlier or not. When I replaced my
calipers at O'reileys the new set came with all the hardware attached.
what keeps it in adjustment and working right. The other is
getting the air out of caliper if it is not straight up on bleeding.
I have a spare set of spring and brackets for the later model.
I don't know if they will fit the earlier or not. When I replaced my
calipers at O'reileys the new set came with all the hardware attached.
Here is a better adjustment video, easier to do.
you want to remove this valve, esp if you have lifted your truck, or at minimum adjust it so that it seem the truck has load.
I am curious what is the spacing of the inboard pad, these kits have brackets that may or may not center the caliper. the lateral run out of the rotor pushes the inboard pad in and then sides the caliper to the out side to release the tension once the pedal is released. If the caliper is not centered well the inboard pad may need to travel farther = lower pedal. P30 mc disc disc RPO JB8 is a good mc, these move a lot of fluid. I haven't done rear disc conversion, only fronts. I will be doing a Ford 9 inch on my Brothers 55 Chevy wide window in the near future, should be interesting as he want to keep the booster and MC under the cab. Iirc we will be starting with a Wilwood kit. I am sure there will be trial an error.
