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who has "pimped" their 44 or 10b

SUPERSUB87 said:
and how much did that pretty thang run ya? ive been searching for a 60 for so long and i havent had any luck so the pimped d44 is sounding better every month. but that wont get me in top truck challenge. <---( hopefully in the future.):D :o

i didn't find a deal, i just paid the going price from a vendor on pirate. it would have been nice to find 500 axle, but i just didn't have it in me i suppose:o
 
Even "pimped" a D44 or 10B is only good to 37" tires under heavy use. I have seen 3 Chromo D44 stubs broken in the last month. 2 Superiors, 1 Yukon. I have also seen a few Warn hubs, R&P's, & lockers broken in the last few years with chromo axles.

Harley
 
SUPERSUB87 said:
i know most people have dana 60's, but who has spent some a chunk of change making their 44's (or 10bolts) tougher. Also, how much did you spend.:crazy:

D44

New Warn axles in a deal: 400.00

Aussie Locker: 200.00

JE Reel Cryo joints: 170.00 pair

When I got in there to do the locker I found one of the carrier bearings spun. So add in another 500.00 to get that repaired and let the shop finish the install, clean the axle out with a bore brush and flop in new seals.

1270.00 Total over a period of 3 months.
 
Maintain what you have and wheel with it till you find what you need unless you destroy it before then. I have been wheeling my 28 spline 10 bolt for 2 years now with 37's. It's open is the only reason it survives, and I try and take it easy when I can. I have busted a few short sides and one long side sets of shafts and U-joints. Spare shafts come through the for sale forum often here for cheap. Buy a couple sets then you can fix it if your break. I never planned on upgrading shafts or U-joints in mine. I have invested in the X-over steering, a rock ring, new hubs and good routine maintenace will help a lot. I am going to pick up my 60 this weekend though:D
 
Most people, when they get into this K5 thing, want to do the 3/4 ton swap right away. That means new wheels/tires anyway..8 lug. That cost doesn't count- We're all gonna do that anyways. Regardless which axle.. D60 or D44/10b. What does an 8 lug D44/10b go for these days? $3-400 or so? Most of the time, if it needs it or not, we rebuild it, so we know everything is good. Thats another $400 in seals, brakes, rotors, bearings, TRE's, gaskets, paint, gear oil, time, etc. Then most people want to upgrade the tie rod, or go to crossover, or get a beefy diff cover. $100 or so for a diff cover, $150? for a tie rod, $100? for the machine work on the knuckle to accept a steering arm. $150? for a 10b x-over steering arm. Draglinks, and pitman arms are gonna add another $200. THEN theres lockers and gears...lets say you want an ARB and 4.88 gears for your D44. Whats an ARB cost with the compressor and everything needed to get it goin? $6-700? Gears....$175? Cromo-shafts- I'm not really familiar with what D44 shiit costs, so I'm gonna guess $1500 for a set of good cromos, Superior etc. $300? for a set of D44 CTM's. Now that it's all said and done you've spent over $4,000 on that D44. One BAD ASS D44 to be sure.....But why on earth would you do that? Specially in our heavy as shiit rigs?

A stock D60 with the OEM Spicer 35 spline outers upgrade will still be stronger. And cheaper. You could build the 60 with all new shiit, including the price of the axle, for under $3,000 if you're smart about it. Leave the 1/2 ton stuff to the Toy guys. If you've broke 1/2 ton stuff....Don't even bother upgrading it. Get a stock 60, gear it, lock it, add 35 spline outters, x-over and hit the rocks or mud or whatever you do, worry free. I did just that with the 60 in my old truggy. Purchase price of $800 for the 60. Detriot, 513's, Spicer 35 spline outters and joints and x-over. That was it. It survived 42" TSL's, 134:1 crawl, and my heavy right foot without a snort.
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Not to toot my own horn....But that ^^^^^^ is good advice for 85% of CK5.
 
I have not spent tooooooo much yet on upgrades to the 10b but I have invested in gears, bearings cross over steering and 8lug conversion over the last year.(Mostly to match the back 14b) I am running 33's and will wear them out before going larger. I know it is inevitable that I will(even with the 33's) that I will tear apart the front at some point and so I will plan to get a 60. I think it is a waist of money to Bling out a 10b. if you are going to wheel hard enough that the 10b needs to be strengthened it is a waist of money and you need a 60.

BTW I have 600 to 700$ into her alone with the cross over. but I love throwing money away:doah:


Well Now it is broke. so off to throw more money down the drain on a 10b.
 
What size tire do you want to run? What type of wheelin'? those are the thing that decide if you need a 60.
 
****, im plannin on a geared and locked 44....

heres my situation.

3/4 tons 14ff 44. 456 and a rear detroit for $800 all this stuff is basically new. sell my axles now to a jeeper who wants them for maybe 400. (bought em for 350) that will buy sweet rims or a locker. and i have actually found them, a getting 60 here is like snipe hunting.
 
What size tire do you want to run? What type of wheelin'? those are the thing that decide if you need a 60.
This thread is from a year ago but he was asking just how much people had spent on beeefing up their 44's or 10 bolts. think it was more of an observation on how many have actually put alot of money into them
 
This thread is from a year ago but he was asking just how much people had spent on beeefing up their 44's or 10 bolts. think it was more of an observation on how many have actually put alot of money into them

sorry, long day i didnt even look at the date

I should probaly get some sleep:doah:
 
i proudly wheel on 10bolts ;) :D

I have only done a rear locker and chromo shafts in the rear, then rebuilt them with 4.10 gears. I'd say I've spent a total of $1000 on both axels combined. I wheel on 35"s and I don't to rocks at all. I do sand, mud, and just general trail dirt.

Before I upgraded the rear shafts I broke one because I tried a brake stand on dry pavement... :doah: Well now i know its limits...
 
so you picked up that other chromo side then huh. i was thinkin about it too but just going 3/4.
 
ssped started it.


Sorry dug this one up.:haha: I was pricing axles and looking at what the quality/strength difference is in cromoly shafts and popped across this thread. I have been getting a range of prices so what is the difference?

As I said I like throwing away money. But not that much.
 
I would say you can find dana 60's just takes some time sometimes. i just finally found mine (picking it up this week) Comes with 455BB Buick dana 60 front 14ff rear np205 t-case & sm465. all for $1000.00. I also found a set off a military truck (dana 60 &14ff) for 500.00 Rears only.
 
so you picked up that other chromo side then huh. i was thinkin about it too but just going 3/4.

Well, more like picking* up the other shaft. Or rather just have been lazy and haven't installed it yet... :doah:
 
Sorry dug this one up.:haha: I was pricing axles and looking at what the quality/strength difference is in cromoly shafts and popped across this thread. I have been getting a range of prices so what is the difference?

As I said I like throwing away money. But not that much.

I got mine for $100 piece for the rear. I believe the front is more like $130 or $150 each, not sure...
 
well now that the thread is back to new again, i can add mine.... ok, i haven't really done much. My open carrier split in 2 so I got a truetrac ( :o, I know) and put it back together. Used the same gears, but they didn't look too bad so we'll see how long it lasts. The truetrac is definetly more beefy then the open diff, so it'll either be the gears or the shafts to go next i guess. Here's a question though, on my front axle the pinion has a lot of slop in it. It must have loosened up. Is this just something I can tighten back up or would this be the bearings wearing out?
 
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