who is still running 6 lugs...on purpose?

[COCHEV]

6 lug roll call. Tell me why you are and how they are doing. Can't afford one tons? Don't need em for what you do? Keeping it real?

I am lamenting on which way to go with my k5. I REALLY want to keep my rally wheels. Plus for the foreseeable future the k5 will double duty/family wagon/road trips/camping/backup work rig...and hopefully some damn wheelin. Ok that's more than double duty.

Imediat goals for it are just enough lift for crossover steering, and rear locker. So 2.5" lift and 33-35s. I currently have a d44 with flat tops and a trac lok and 3.73s. I want to keep that gearing for good highway rpms.

Used 14 sf 6 luggers are going for $300-400 around here. But I can get a 12 bolt for less then 100 bucks leaving more money on the table for other goodies...

Of course I can find 3.73 14 FF for the same price and never have to think about it again...but I loose my rallys

So anyways, let's here it from those who are getting buy with less

 

[wazzabie]

Did they make ralleys for the 3/4 ton?

 

[K5-CJ5]

My last blazer I left the 10bolt front and rear....That being said it was ok with 33's open but after the locker I was busting shafts left and right! C-clip rears are not a great thing when you break and your tire starts coming off.

Dont waste money on a 12 bolt or 14 bff. If your gonna spend the money get the 14 bff and never worry again.

Im still running a Dana 44 8 lug, havent broke yet, but still would like to go dana 60 eventually. running 33's and 35's I would say run the front 44 with an 8 lug conversion and swap the rear to a 14bff.

 

[6872xtc]

I still have little axles. No problems with a 462 roller BB. But I only have 33's and just a True-Trac as it does see snow once in a while. I don't pull much weight with it and save full throttle for once I get rolling on pavement. I have a set of tons sitting here but why when I always wanted a set of Centerlines. I would say that if you use your head, go with what you want for your application. Keep in mind that a 12B will probably need rebuilt to go some more, where as a 14FF... well you know.

 

[1BEATK5]

A 14sf is plenty strong. Next time I see one for $150. I will let you know. I have found 3 in one day before. The pick-n-pull in Tigard usually has them. Their prices are going up though. I would guess close to $200 these days.

 

[1BEATK5]

I wouldn't even consider a 12b.

 

[pblaze725]

In reply to the op I am still running 6 lugs. I'm locked front & rear. That's just where I am right now.
I've broken 2 rear axle shafts so far. Now I carry 2 spares.

I see 14bff set ups complete at the parts yard all the time now they run between $120-$300 depending on sales & locations. The only reason I haven't jumped on it is the added costs of getting new tires, wheels, and lockers.
I can spend a few hundred bucks here & there but not a few grand. I will eventually pick some up at the yard,and make a slow build out of it, but for right now I want to be able to hit the trail at a moments notice at all times.

 

[mudmobeeler]

Still running 6 lug 10 bolts because I dont have the money for the one ton swap yet. Have the 60 and 14 bolt already but cant afford everything else. And just bought some 35 12.50 15s back in November so they are gonna get used until they are gone or until I get something else to drive and I can let the blazer set to do the one ton swap.

 

[Deuling]

Im still runnin em, I think ill find a 14sf 6 lug so I can keep 6 in the front. I dont want those big heavy axles for the dunes anyways, makes ya sink :P

 

[y5mgisi]

I just like the look of the factory rally wheels. Especially with the factory drive slugs on the full time models. I jus think 8 lug transitions the look over to "work truck" status whereas 6 lug still has a "sport" look to it that gives off a look that say, "this truck is for fun and play".

Cause something like this is the $hit to me!

 

[63chevyll]

2 to 3 12 bolts, + times+ fluid+ possibly of broke in a bad spot= 1 $300-$400 14SF in my book.
Ideal, a stock 14SF with E locker and a 10b or 44 front with Reid knuckles, bigger front wheel studs to match the big rears, moog problem solver BJs with cro-mo shafts is about as strong as a 6lug as you can get.

Ok, maybe not the Reids for everyone, but add up all the above and you have a solid 6 bolt set up.

I wouldn't hesitate about the Reid if I was doing crossover. Something about the piece of mind while cruising down the highway with all my children.

 

[1BEATK5]

Wow! That k5 looks like the older brother of your k5. I likey

 

[y5mgisi]

Me too! I been really thinking about getting the blazer repainted before the burb cause it would be much cheaper and easier but the burb needs it worse... Anyway, i also SO badly want to do a 2"-3" lift and 33" Toyo MT's on it!! I know the toyos arent real great tires but they seem to ride smooth and they will give me the look im after.

 

[teacher_dave]

I'm still running 10 bolts on my 'Burb. I've got a 14bff and 8lug D44 on site, just waiting until the divorce is over before I drop any coin into a rig I might have to sell. We have mostly sand over red clay in the hills, and gumbo mud in the bottoms, so not really enough traction to break axles anyway. Most of my offroading is on rutted out logging trails.

 

[rjfguitar]

If I could build my blazer all over againI would have just put on a 4" lift with 33's and tossed a 14bolt semi float 6 lug in the back for the better brakes and be assured of never breaking anything over a rear 10b. I don't need the strength of my rear 14bff, and would prefer to not haul around the weight of it and loose horse power from the parasetic drag of that big 10.5 ring gear and bearings.

 

[Chevy305]

Still running 6 lugs on purpose

The purpose was to keep my wheels because I really liked them.

I broke a factory 10bolt rear shaft trying to do a brake stand I had a locker and 35"s on it too... So chromo shafts went in and never had another problem with it.
I locked the front 10bolt and started breaking breaking both original axle ujoints. I replaced them and then broke one more because I forgot to put in that plastic or brass spacer thingy so the joint bound up at full turn under heavy throttle. After that I have had no problems with the front axle.

But in anticipation of a new 400+hp engine, I converted an 80s 8lug 14sf housing to 6 lug so it would 100% bolt in. After having done it, it would have been way easier to just move the spring perches on a complete factory 90s 6lug 14bsf.

 

[ccarley]

I swapped in a 12 bolt in my Suburban to keep it 6 lug. New bearings and now a True Track, and I'm happy with the rear. Mild wheeling, snow sand mud, it's not a rock crawler.

I would like something stronger in the front though... but still would like to keep it 6 lug.

In any case, just remember what you have underneath before going crazy. No big deal

 

[4xcrazy]

6 lug roll call. Tell me why you are and how they are doing. Can't afford one tons? Don't need em for what you do? Keeping it real?

I am lamenting on which way to go with my k5. I REALLY want to keep my rally wheels. Plus for the foreseeable future the k5 will double duty/family wagon/road trips/camping/backup work rig...and hopefully some damn wheelin. Ok that's more than double duty.

Imediat goals for it are just enough lift for crossover steering, and rear locker. So 2.5" lift and 33-35s. I currently have a d44 with flat tops and a trac lok and 3.73s. I want to keep that gearing for good highway rpms.


Of course I can find 3.73 14 FF for the same price and never have to think about it again...but I loose my rallys

So anyways, let's here it from those who are getting buy with less

I don't run 6 lug anymore because I broke the original 10 bolt wheelin' it, not a shaft, or a Gov-loc, or carrier,,, the WHOLE rear diff started coming apart from where the axle tube is pressed into the center section. Swapped in a junk yard 14bff, really before I knew all that much about them, almost took it out when I realized how much work it is to do just brakes with the drums (disk now).

Front is still a 10 bolt, but I got it from a 3/4 ton pick-up mainly because it had the matching gears as the rear I picked up (4.10) and also to match up the lugs number front/rear.

NOW, you mention in your post about wanting to keep your 3.73 gears while running a 33-35 inch tire,,, I can tell you from personal experience, my truck is currently running 35" with the 4.10's and honestly it lugs the motor somewhat when cruising at highway speed. I don't think you will be at all happy with 3.73 unless you are only running a 3 spd trans.

2.5" lift with 35's? you are then planning on doing some serious fender cutting then I guess? I had to trim the rear lower corner some, and I'm even running a deeper backspaced H2 rim and a 4" lift.

Just some things that caught my attention and thought I'd toss that info out to ya to ponder over.

As for going 8-lug? I really don't mind it anymore, only time I really get annoyed is when I have to pull wheels off with the manual 4-way

If you're concerned about the cost about changing tires or rims, just do like I did and wait till you are going to be needing new tires, buy ones to fit new rims,, save alittle for new/used rims, I went the H2 route because they seem to be fairly cheap and I like the 17" look on the truck

 

[xenomarine]

I didn't have time to read all of the posts but I figured I would chime in. I'm pretty sure there is a company who sells 6 lug conversion hubs for a 14bff, and they can even do a 5 lug version. It's probably very spendy but it's always an option down the road. I'll see if I can find the link.

edit: found it!

https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/products.php?product=Solid-Axle-5-and-6-Lug-GM-14-Bolt-Wheel-Hubs

moog problem solver BJs

What are these that you speak of?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

 

[badmix]

Im still on 6lugs. Ive got chromoly axle shafts and a locker, plus I dont have a heavy foot when wheeling, im a slo 'mo going down the trails and obstacles.

I just havent gone thru the hassles of doing the 14bff swap, partly due to money, time and having to pay someone to do the fab work.