y5mgisi
1 ton status
Anyone know? I want to do a 1" zero rate in front and a 1.5" rear. All I can find is 1".
Thanks!
Thanks!
CK5
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Who makes a 1.5" zero rate?
- Thread starter y5mgisi
- Start date
I'm willing to bet Kert would make you whatever you want. Unless it was a safety concern or he is backed up
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I just thought there was someone out there that already offered 1" and 1.5".
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
If its in the rear it wouldn't necessarily have to be bolted to the spring pack would it? Oregon Spring can make you blocks whatever size you want. I have 1" blocks in the back of my burb that they made...
Carcinogen
1/2 ton status
I believe they are made with offset holes to allow you to move the axle 1" or 1.5" forward or backward from the spring pin location. But as far as I'm aware they only lift the truck 1"
As said of run a block in the back no problem. That's such a small size you will never notice any issues.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
If no one makes them, I will. I just figured I would like the warm fuzzy feeling.
Super easy to make. Just make then if you want them. Drilling through 1.5 steel won't be fun but it's not that bad. Vice and a power drill and step up your bits so you're not drilling with a big drilll trying to drill it. Try to dtill it on a drill press if you can get access to one. Go pickup two pieces 1.5 thick steel thats the width you need. Measure center steak a point with a spring punch and get to drilling.
If you want a good clean hole thats straight use machine screw length cobalt drills. They're stub drills so they're more rigid being shorter, and won't walk like a jobber length drill will. But thats what the spring punch stake punch point is for. Start the hole with a stub drill or just use them if they're long enough to drill thru completely. Just step it up a couple sizes, then use a reamer when you have about .015 material lef to remove. You'll have a correctly sized hole with a clean finish. Chamfer the hole edges, clean and paint. Done.
If you want a good clean hole thats straight use machine screw length cobalt drills. They're stub drills so they're more rigid being shorter, and won't walk like a jobber length drill will. But thats what the spring punch stake punch point is for. Start the hole with a stub drill or just use them if they're long enough to drill thru completely. Just step it up a couple sizes, then use a reamer when you have about .015 material lef to remove. You'll have a correctly sized hole with a clean finish. Chamfer the hole edges, clean and paint. Done.
Carcinogen
1/2 ton status
and radius edges that would touch the springs with a grinder to prevent stress cracking
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
Or just take 40 bucks to Oregon Spring and go pick em up...
compared to drilling through 1.5" steel with multiple bits, TWICE, well worth it...
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
If you have a drill press there's no reason to use multiple drill bits, quite the opposite in fact.
The drill bit runs cooler and lasts longer if it gets to use as much as possible of its cutting edge.
Go slow and use a lot of pressure, and it'll work just fine.
Just use one small drill bit first to drill out a diameter slightly larger than the center of the big drill bit (where the big one lacks a cutting edge).
If you should use a 1,5" block on the front axle thats another question though...
The drill bit runs cooler and lasts longer if it gets to use as much as possible of its cutting edge.
Go slow and use a lot of pressure, and it'll work just fine.
Just use one small drill bit first to drill out a diameter slightly larger than the center of the big drill bit (where the big one lacks a cutting edge).
If you should use a 1,5" block on the front axle thats another question though...
If you have a drill press there's no reason to use multiple drill bits, quite the opposite in fact.
The drill bit runs cooler and lasts longer if it gets to use as much as possible of its cutting edge.
Go slow and use a lot of pressure, and it'll work just fine.
Just use one small drill bit first to drill out a diameter slightly larger than the center of the big drill bit (where the big one lacks a cutting edge).
If you should use a 1,5" block on the front axle thats another question though...
I said step drill if he was driliing by hand with a power drill. Totally doable and MUCH easier then pushing a much larger drill through steel material that thick. Only reason I said also to step drill it in a drill press is because most drill presses most guys have at home are crappy low torque too high of RPM drill presses from crappy Home Depot or Lowes and they think they have a drill press. With a drill press like that YES, I would step it up to size as well. NO WAY IN HELL a little crappy drill dress like that will handle a reasonable sized drill even.
Their crappy chucks are not manufactured with real quality in mind so theose chuck shanks are weak and will wallow and allow a drill to walk around before it drills into the steel unless you use a split point so it starts on center like it should, and stake it too. Drilling steel on a mill is the way you really want to do it. I've used 2" twist drills on a Bridgeport mill before in steel. Still had to step drill it up to size. WAAAAY too much cutting force on a drill like that in a mill. It will lock up and then things break.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
You have a point there. I guess I'm just spoiled by using good drill presses 
