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Who runs Chromos and CTM's/OX/and or Yukon joints in there D44?

6.2Blazer said:
Hmmmmm......................you can build a Dana 44 with all those goodies (assuming average retail price) for LESS than a typical stock Dana 60???? Are you pricing "stock" Dana 60's from Boyce Equipment or what?

I have yet to run across a D60 that doesn't need to be regeard and pretty much rebuilt that is less than $1000. If you include the cost of a D60 with the cost of the parts just to rebuild it back to stock, it will run closer to $2K. I will have less than $1500 into my front D44 with all new parts. Also, I can build it a LOT cheaper than most because I sell all those parts.

6.2Blazer said:
In regards to the post about the Jantz joints and the long drawn-out explanation the guy has, it's kinda' questionable, or maybe even somewhat funny. I work for a company that performs high level automotive testing for manufacturers, government, etc... and the test techniques described are pretty archaic, almost impossible to reliably duplicate, and have very little scientific or technical thought behind it. Not saying the product is not any good, just that the testing method is quite questionable.

I too have a background in scientific testing and studies (i.e. strength of materials, tensile, force, surface, yada yada yada). I see where you are coming from. But, I have seen all of those joints in person and have seen all of them in action. I will be running a set of JJ's for sure. For me it's a simple value equation. Which joint is the best bang for the buck? For me, it's the Jantz Joints hands down. I can get you a set of Jantz Joints which comes with the joints, grease, and grease gun (must be used for warranty purposes) for approx. $50 less than a set of OX joints (priced against 4 Wheel Parts), and approx. $175 cheaper than CTM's (price according to CTM website). They have almost identical warrantys, and will perform the same as or better then a more expensive u-joint. I say save the $$ for another upgrade and run the hell out of 'em!:wink1:
 
shane74 said:
I have yet to run across a D60 that doesn't need to be regeard and pretty much rebuilt that is less than $1000. If you include the cost of a D60 with the cost of the parts just to rebuild it back to stock, it will run closer to $2K.


hmmm I got a front d60 for $250.... ring and pinion $125, rebuild kit $110, detroit locker $600, brute force universals $60 = $1145
guess I did good!!!! :crazy:
 
You did Damn good!!! There is no way in hell you can find one around here for $250. I have searched at least 10 JY's here in Vegas with no luck. I think they strip them and hide them for company's like Boyce who will guarantee them like $500 a pop.

I know one-ton has found some 3500 trucks, but they were running and he paid a few grand for them.
 
stallion85 said:
You did Damn good!!! There is no way in hell you can find one around here for $250. I have searched at least 10 JY's here in Vegas with no luck. I think they strip them and hide them for company's like Boyce who will guarantee them like $500 a pop.

I know one-ton has found some 3500 trucks, but they were running and he paid a few grand for them.

well guess you havent seen my post a long time ago... actually I paid


$500......




for this
http://rootbreaker.no-ip.com/PROJECT_NJLEGAL/9_20_2003/partstruck.htm

xside.jpg


Specs:
* 1979 GMC K35 * D60 Front * 14bolt rear * Rollbar with 5 KC's
* Dual Gas Tanks * Front Tube Bumper * Factory Tach * New Radiator
* Headers * 3" body lift * 4" suspension lift * 38's on 16.5x12's

all for $500
sold my front d44 with 4.56's and the 14bolt out of the back of that truck for $250.. so that is where I went for $250 for it...

and even with paying $250.. I kept the rollbar, factory tach cluster, dual tanks, wiring :bow:
 
I'm running a D44 with superior chromos and ctm's with 4.56's R&P on 36" SX's and run rocks and trails. No failures as of yet (about 6 good wheeling trips). I also upgraded as I broke. Hard as hell to find a good deal on a D60 in my area so building the D44 was cheaper for me. Seems to be a good set up for the tire size that I'm currently running. Once I go 38's it might be a different story. Guess I'll deal with it then.
EDIT: I will add that I have a loc-rite up front and leave both hubs lock at all times on the trail.
 
Last edited:
79chevyk10 said:
I'm running a D44 with superior chromos and ctm's with 4.56's R&P on 36" SX's and run rocks and trails. No failures as of yet (about 6 good wheeling trips). I also upgraded as I broke. Hard as hell to find a good deal on a D60 in my area so building the D44 was cheaper for me. Seems to be a good set up for the tire size that I'm currently running. Once I go 38's it might be a different story. Guess I'll deal with it then.

I am going to get a set of 37" here in Feb. (Tax Return:D ). Time will tell.

Plus I have mad driving skills:rolleyes:
 
stallion85 said:
Wow! I have driven on my Chromos for two years now on the rocks and the only thing I have broken is the OX ujoint that was in the short side. I finally got that peice of junk out of there and I am putting a CTM in that side.

My neighbor wheels with a 28 spline D44 Welded and 36" IROKS and hasen't broken in the last 5 wheelin trips with this setup.......I know I know it is only a matter of time, but I keep convincing myself I can get away with it. I am very careful with the front end when it is in the ARB is engaged. If the wheels are bound up, I try to back out with the front unlocked and try another line.

I am pretty much set on doing it, Maybe a year down the road I can give an update:D


LOL I just found this thread in a search and had to laugh. I have 42's and a whole other rig now:o Of course I don't wheel as much as I used to:haha:
 
yeah I started reading this and got confused cause I knew you had a cucv with a 60. was kinda wondering why you swapped in a 44:haha: then I looked at the dates. then there was the part about a 28 spline d44. arent they all 19 or 30 spline?
 
I think one or two years they had an odd ball 28 spline D44. It was on my buds K5 that is long gone now....
 
I have a 28 spline inner short and inner long that came with my blazer for spares. The front axle is a '79 J-20 44, but these don't fit it. It's 30 spline and the short side inner is 2" shorter than a Chevy shaft.
 

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