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Who's Running What for Bead Locks?

check these

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www.walkerevansracing.com
 
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I have DIY4x's too...
Yah they're only outside beadlocks..I rubber cemented the inside.
I haven't lost a bead in the 2 years of heavy wheelin'. :D :D
 
Greg72 said:
A "normal" Hummer wheel has 7.25" of backspacing, so you need to get some that are re-centered to something more conventional like 3.75" of BS.

Out back, they work awesome and will "tuck" a 16" wide swamper almost 100% underneath the stock fenders....it's an insane look. Kind of like a lifted Blazer that's been mini-tubbed! :D
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So could you just recenter the fronts and leave the backs the way they are? That seems like it would give you a better turning radius as well. Does anyone have a pic of a setup like this :bow:
thanks,
James
 
Most chevies are already 3" narrower in the back. It gets to a point of diminishing returns. If you left the back factory and recentered the front, you'd be roughly 10" narrower in back. :eek1:
 
I got a set of Allied Rock-a-thons....32 bolt. They are nice and beefy. If I did not get a good deal on them with my 40" TSL's I would probably do the DIY4x4 or Great Lake Offroad weld-on's.

I really thought about the Hummers because they are such a cheap "initial" investment. After you get done recentering and all that you are right back to expensive again. Not to mention they are only 8/12 bolt locks, and I have heard that the 8's suck.....the outer bead bends rather easily. I would do weld-ons or an aftermarket BL. That is my opinion.
 
What you can do is run dually front 60 hubs up front and dually rear hubs on a non dually housing. That puts the hub out and the rim brings it back in.
I have dually hubs on my TJ so that the hummer rims don't leave the lockouts expossed to the rocks.
 
6.2puller said:
What you can do is run dually front 60 hubs up front and dually rear hubs on a non dually housing. That puts the hub out and the rim brings it back in.
I have dually hubs on my TJ so that the hummer rims don't leave the lockouts expossed to the rocks.
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The dually hubs may solve the backspacing problem....but the scrub radius (the relationship between the steering centerline and the wheel centerline) becomes HORRIBLE.

It adds a lot of resistance to the steering and makes the turning radius a lot larger too.... Even on a "trail only" rig, these are poor tradeoffs.

:thinking:
 
I'm running the Staun internal beadlocks, they are great! Nobody will ever know you have them except for the second valve stem and I can run all day long at 7 p.s.i. or lower. :wink1:

Next I would say the walker evans beadlocks but no 16.5 in them I don't think. Hummer rims are also a good option.

Tommy
 
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MRT weld-ons on 15x8 8 lug wheels with 38.5 TSL SX's. Worth every penny. I used to pop front tires off the bead quite a bit. Even with OBA, it's a pain and the tires end up full of mud which makes mud balls in the tires. They're real cool when they freeze. :D
 
Dually hubs and hummer backspacing would be just as good or better than the ever popular 2.25" backspacing on standard hubs.
 
Went ahead and ordered the Staun's a couple days ago.

It's the best/cheapest alternative for what I'm currently running.

Thanks for all the input/info.
 
With regard to scrub radius, another thing to think about is that the turning axis is angled in at the top (to find the axis, draw a line through the center of the 2 ball joints or king pins). So, as you put taller tires on, the point where it intersects the ground is going further out. So, taller tires need quite a bit less back space to have the same scrub radius.
 
mikey_d05 said:
Dually hubs and hummer backspacing would be just as good or better than the ever popular 2.25" backspacing on standard hubs.
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Upon "mature reflection"...my previous post makes no sense. :blush:


What I was envisioning in my head was something analagous to a dually spacer with a re-centered wheel or conventional wagon wheel.....where the wheel centerline was dramatically offset from the steering axis. Clearly if you move the mounting hub out by 4" (or whatever) and change the backspacing by the same amount to compensate...the tire centerline position remains unchanged.

....I should be more careful what topics I try to answer at 6:30AM. :haha:
 
vtblazer said:
Went ahead and ordered the Staun's a couple days ago.

It's the best/cheapest alternative for what I'm currently running.

Thanks for all the input/info.
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I was at Dom's shop tonight and asked him if you called him. Glad to hear you bought local and I hope he treated you well :D
 
6.2puller said:
I was at Dom's shop tonight and asked him if you called him. Glad to hear you bought local and I hope he treated you well :D
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I think he did what he could price wise and was willing to help out with shipping.
Thanks for hookin' me up. :wink1:

Seemed like a good guy, we talked for awhile and he filled me in on your local wheeling and what he's been doing to promote the sport. :bow:
 
so I could put dually hubs on my k20 burb, and run unmodified h1's front and rear? Where would I get dually hubs, and how would I install them? I'm having a hard time picturing them, could someone post up a pic of dually hubs?
thanks,
James
 
Dually hubs are very cheap on Ebay. Basically the area that the tire mounts to is towards the outside of the truck by about 4"s rather than all the way to the inside of the hub by the rotor. You would basically remove the lockout, then wheelbearings and old hub. Put on the dually hub, wheelbearings and lockout. Same spindles will work. Search Ebay for pics. You can probably sell your single wheel hubs for more than you pay for dually hubs.
 
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